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WITH A NAME LIKE “DAY OF THE DEAD,” the Mexican celebration of All Soul’s Day sounds like a downer, but it’s actually anything but. A fond farewell to those who have passed on, Dia de los Muertos is celebrated in Mexican communities with decorations, special foods and music, all of which are meant to ease the transition of the deceased to the next world. If you want to see the holiday done up right, go to Pilsen on Chicago’s Near South Side. As you turn from Ashland Avenue to go east on Pilsen’s main drag, 18th Street, the first thing you’ll see is Farmacia La Joya (1801 S. Ashland Ave.), one of several neighborhood places that local young people have decorated with colorful dancing skeletons. Stop by Panaderia Laredo Bakery (1540 W. 18th St.), which will be selling tasty pan de muerto, or Day of the Dead bread; if you’d rather have a meal, try Restaurant Nuevo Leon (1515 W. 18th St), where the Gutierrez clan has been serving up Mexican favorites since 1962. Cafe Jumping Bean (1439 W. 18th St.), a mainstay of Pilsen’s creative community, will be hosting a Dia de los Muertos art show featuring the work of eight local artists and an array of ofrendas, special altars devoted to dead loved ones. Another great neighborhood place is Los Milagros Botanica (1521 W. 18th St.), which offers a dazzling array of religious icons and candles Finally, don’t miss the Mexican Fine Arts Center Museum (1852 W. 19th St.), where you can see artisans demonstrating the craft of sugar-skull making; call 312-738-1503 for the scoop on the rest of the museum’s Day of the Dead doings.

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