If fusion cuisine is the stylish marrying of Asian flavors with French technique, then Ken’s menu won’t qualify. But for a basic example of all-American melting pot, a kosher diner is hard to top.
Coca-Cola memorabilia crowds the walls and families crowd the booths. Burgers and hot dogs rub shoulders with house-made soups and kosher-ized sandwiches such as a B.L.T. made with beef-substitute bacon. Gumball machines and a game room complete the kid-friendly atmosphere.
Any hesitation on the customer’s part at the order counter will be met by the suggestion of a Burger Buddy ($5.29), the half-pound flagship entree. The substantial patty is beefy but a bit dry, which is countered by the mayonnaise-based “special sauce.” It makes a messy but satisfying two-handed meal.
The Burger Buddy and many other orders come with steak fries. Their blistered, golden exterior approaches potato-chip territory in crispness; they are perfect ketchup scoops. In the fried-side category, they are much better than the bready, commercial onion rings ($1.79).
Another of the eight signature sandwiches is the Avi ($4.89), a chicken breast pounded thin into a schnitzel shape before frying. Amazingly tough, it rests on a fresh kaiser under a few shreds of iceberg and a thin slice of tomato.
A better bet is the Dempster, a mound of thin-sliced chuck in a garlic-bread bun ($5.59). The garlic flavor may be faint and the accompanying barbecue sauce too sweet, but the generous amount of lean meat makes up for that. Ask for the sauce on the side. (The Dempster is available as a chicken version, too, with grilled onions.)
Submarines and deli sandwiches round out the meat-based offerings. We tried the corned beef, which was too dry the first time but fine on a repeat visit, lean and a vivid pink ($5.95).
Soups are a high point here; you can order a pint ($2.59) or a quart ($4.59) to go without having to worry about the sky-high saltiness of many restaurant soups. Sweet-and-sour cabbage soup is a liquid version of the tangy red-cabbage side beloved of German restaurants. Chicken noodle consists of a comforting, full-flavored broth buoying tender noodles but mere particles of actual chicken. Mushroom-barley is smooth but not gummy, with the occasional lima bean surfacing among the minced mushrooms and plump grains.
A cup of coleslaw (59 cents) is a tasty option: Coarsely shredded cabbage gets a sweetish, creamy dressing with a horseradish kick to keep it from cloying.
A children’s menu (for dine-in only, $2.89 to $4.25) offers hot dogs, half-sandwiches with soup, spaghetti and chicken nuggets.
As you might expect from a diner with a “Happy Days” emphasis, fountain desserts, from egg creams ($1.49) to black cows ($2.59), are a feature. The chocolate shake ($2.79) tastes off, perhaps because of its soft-serve base. The black cow, a k a root beer float, is much better, but take care in handling the thin foam-plastic cup: One clumsy diner put his thumb through the side, producing a torrent of sweet suds across the table. Even after mopping up, the staff was pleasant.
Be aware that Ken’s closes for most Jewish holidays. If your calendar lists only Yom Kippur and Hanukkah, a call beforehand is a good idea.
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Ken’s Diner
(Two forks)
3353 W. Dempster St., Skokie
847-679-2850
Hours: 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Sun.-Thur.; 11 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Fri.
Credit cards: D, M, V
Ratings: 4 forks: Top of the class
3 forks: Better than most
2 forks: Very good fare
1 fork: Middle of the road
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
