Q–I am refinishing some old furniture by first stripping off all of the old finish with paint and varnish remover.
I’m using a very strong, high-priced remover because there are multiple layers of paint and varnish to be taken off in order to get down to the bare wood. However, I find I am wasting a lot when I apply it to the legs and some other vertical sections because the remover runs down and off the leg before it has completely softened the finish.
I therefore have to apply three to four applications on some surfaces–an expensive waste of material. Any suggestions as to how I can cut down on this waste?
A–Here are two tips that will help: First, use a semi-paste remover, which is much thicker than liquid versions and more likely to stay in place. It also won’t dry out as fast. Second, while brushing on the remover, stand each leg in an empty coffee can or similar container. The can will catch all remover that runs down so that you can keep reusing it; simply dip the brush back into the runoff in the can and spread it back onto the leg.
Q–My house has stucco on the outside and there apparently are two layers–a fine sandy top layer and a base coat of coarser stucco. Some of my neighbors who live in similar houses have advised against painting this stucco; they say that a new layer of stucco must be applied. What is your opinion?
A–In most cases, stucco can be painted with a latex masonry paint. However, on some very old houses a type of stucco was sometimes used that is difficult to paint over. (That stucco is often referred to as “magnesite stucco.”) If your neighbors have had this problem with their houses, you may, too.
Recoating this stucco may require the services of a professional stucco contractor. If in doubt, consult an experienced local contractor or test the stucco by painting a small area with a good quality latex masonry paint. Make sure the test area will be exposed to the sun and the weather, and wait several months to see how the paint stands up.
Q–Our house has a large living room with a beautiful hardwood floor, but there is a decided sag in the middle of the room. A friend told us that we can install heavy-duty jack posts in the basement to raise this floor. Is this a job that we dare tackle by ourselves?
A–Telescoping jack posts consist of heavy steel columns that come in sections so you can then adjust them for various heights. They have a screw-jack at the top for final and gradual raising when positioned under the sagging joists.
If you are very handy and can follow instructions, this could be a do-it-yourself job. For most people, however, it is smarter to hire a professional.
In most cases, you have to break through the concrete basement floor to pour a 12-inch-deep footing as a base for the jack post and if there is more than one floor joist to be raised you’ll have to use two jack posts with a 4-by-4 across the top to bridge the sagging joists.
Q–Our house has vinyl siding that was installed about 30 years ago. This siding is cracking and peeling, and has marks that won’t wash off. Can this siding be painted over to stop the peeling and cracking?
A–Vinyl siding is made of solid vinyl, so there normally is no finish to crack or peel. You may have some type of wood or metal siding that is not solid vinyl. It may have been factory finished with some type of vinyl coating, and it apparently is this finish that is coming off. You should be able to paint over it with a latex house paint, but first you will have to scrape off all loose and flaking material, then scrub down thoroughly with a strong detergent.
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Have a question about home repair problems? Write to Bernard Gladstone in care of Your Place, Chicago Tribune, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60611. Questions of general interest will be answered in future columns. Sorry, letters cannot be answered personally.
