Lips have little to smile about during the winter. Cold, dry air leaves them parched. And because they lack oil glands, it’s easy for them to become chapped and cracked.
Since lips also have fewer layers of skin, “…there’s less of a barrier to the elements,” says Dr. Charles Zugerman, associate professor of dermatology at Northwestern University Medical School.
To bolster that barrier, lips can benefit from a surface coat that slows moisture loss. But where a dab of Vaseline once was the sole solution, a flood of new lip protection products promises to pamper your lips with special conditioning and exfoliating formulas.
Moisturizers like English Ideas’ Lip Solution provide hydrating oils that are absorbed by the lips. More controversial are alpha-hydroxy acids, long popular as body-and-facial-skin exfoliators, and now pitched as lip-smoothing conditioners.
“You don’t have much of a dead…layer (on the lips), so there’s not much for (an AHA) to do,” says Dr. Dee Anna Glaser, assistant professor of dermatology at St. Louis University Health Services Center. Still, she notes that AHAs for the lips formulated at a lower concentration than those for the face are probably not harmful if used properly.
But don’t expect dramatic results.
“Will it make an 80-year-old look 20? No. Will it smooth the lips and get rid of flaking? Yes,” says Zugerman.
Some experts also question whether medicated ingredients, like camphor and menthol, in products such as Blistex and Carmex, actually heal lips or simply soothe them with a tingling sensation.
Others praise their comfort factor.
“Part of treating the (dry and chapped) condition is making them feel better and if it feels good to you, fine,” says Glaser.
For everyday outdoor use, a sun protection factor is an essential element in lip protection; an SPF 15 or higher is preferred to guard against sun damage and the risk of lip cancer.
In choosing lipsticks during the chilly months, look for a glossy finish formulation. Matte- or long-last lipsticks can be drying.
But don’t rely on lipstick for your only protection. “There are few things in the cosmetics world that serve two purposes well,” says Zugerman. “Just as Blistex isn’t a good lipstick, lipstick isn’t good protection.”
A SPA SPLURGE AT HOME
Lip “facials” are all the rage among the spa set. The famed La Costa Resort & Spa in Carlsbad, Calif., offers a lip therapy treatment that can easily be done at home.
We checked it out with dermatologist Dr. Dee Anna Glaser who cleared it for safety. But beware of using fragranced products, as they can cause allergic reactions.
Step 1: Gently scrub your lips with your favorite exfoliating face scrub, using your fingertips to massage your lips with a circular motion for about two minutes to remove dead skin. Rinse the exfoliator off with a warm water splash.
Step 2: Massage your favorite botanical essential oil into your lips.
Step 3: Apply a hydrating facial mask to your lips. Wait several minutes to seal in the oil. Remove the mask with a warm, wet washcloth.
A warning: Excessively dry lips, especially if accompanied by a dry mouth and bad breath, should be checked by a doctor.
SMOOTH ON A SMILE
Are your lips too dry to smooth on a coat of lipstick? A ip conditioner can smooth the way for color, says Barbara Salomone, president of cosmetics company Bioelements.
First, apply a lip balm and wait about a minute. Then apply a moisturizing lipstick.
KISSING OFF DAMAGE
DO
– Put a layer of lip balm between you and the elements.
– Reapply your lip protection every few hours.
– Look for a lip product with sunscreen.
– Buy multiple lip balms and keep one each in your coat, car, desk and purse.
– Slather on a rich balm–Vaseline is a good choice–at night before sleeping.
DON’T
– Try to pull off dead lip skin; you will remove healthy skin layers along with dry ones.
– Lick your lips; it accelerates moisture loss.
– Use AHA products that aren’t specifically formulated for the lips.
– Apply matte or long-lasting lipstick formulas if your lips are dry.
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Resources
English Ideas Lip Solution moisturizing base, $18; at Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom or by mail at 800-LIP-LAST. Bioelements Instant Emollient with aloe, vitamin E and chamomile, $8.50; at salons. For locations call 800-533-3064. Aquaphor tackles both chapped skin and lips, $6.79; at Walgreens pharmacy counters. Kiss My Face Lip Moisturizer, $5.95; in health food stores or via mail at 800-262-KISS. Vaseline, $1.89; at Walgreens.
