For years now, the culinary spotlight on spice has been hot: face-flushing flavors and tongue-lashing curries, real burn-the-palate stuff. But in the quest to prove how tough we are and how international are our taste buds, the sweeter spices have been overlooked. These weeks of warm celebration are the time to take a softer approach to spice. The emphasis at the holiday table is on perfume and all the relaxing associations we find in the scents of cinnamon, cloves, ginger, nutmeg, cardamom, vanilla and allspice. Keep the fire in the fireplace; this is the time of year our senses want to be babied.
“It’s astonishing the business we do now,” said Patty Erd, co-owner with husband Tom of The Spice House in Evanston. “We grind 50 pounds of ginger a week instead of the usual 5 pounds. We grind cardamom once a week and normally it isn’t a big seller. Cloves and coarse cinnamon. … A lot of people are buying them for craft projects as well.”
Take a bite of the cardamom breads and tea rolls for sale at Swedish Bakery. Inhaling these smells “is what makes me really think of Christmas,” said Erma Schuttlein as she shopped at the Andersonville bakery. “It reminds me of my mother.”
Certainly, local chefs get cozy with the milder spices as soon as fall flavors take over the menu. Chef Steven Chiappetti of Mango, Grapes and Rhapsody restaurants prepares a cinnamon turkey and stuffed pears with walnuts and cloves for Thanksgiving. At Vivere restaurant on Monroe Street, chef Marcelo Gallegos has a terrific butternut squash-stuffed ravioli with cinnamon, nutmeg and caramelized pears.
The age-old search for sweet spices (and pepper) is what opened up trade routes and started border wars in ancient times. Where this commerce flourished, as on the coast of the Mediterranean, in the Far East and the Caribbean, is still reflected in the regional cuisine: Lebanese pilafs and Indian curries are often scented with cardamom; Vietnamese beef dishes may be perfumed with cinnamon, and cloves are a component of Chinese five-spice powder; the Caribbean Islands were a source of allspice, which flavors jerk seasoning; and the heavenly vanilla bean, now mostly grown in Madagascar and Tahiti, was native to Central America..
For holiday entertaining, the gentler spices are the best bet for meals, because they are mild enough for everyone. Cardamom bread is perfect for tea, late-night snacking and Christmas breakfast. Or consider a casserole dish of warm, multispiced rice salad to serve along with roast chicken, or Rick Bayless’ sweet potatoes rubbed with the complementary flavors of cinnamon, orange and mild chilies. The end of the meal or buffet line is the right place for nutmeg-powdered eggnog or moist, chocolatey bread pudding served with spiced whipped cream.
Here’s a closer look at what to use. Information comes from the American Spice Trade Association and “The Complete Book of Spices,” by Jill Norman.
– Allspice: Jamaica was the primary source of this reddish-brown berry, which is often used as a pickling spice or in ketchup and sausagemaking here, or in stews and curries in the Caribbean. Allspice gets its name from its flavor, which combines cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg.
– Cardamom: The flowering plant that produces cardamom pods, part of the ginger family, grows wild in India and Sri Lanka but also is cultivated in Africa, Central America and Southeast Asia. The seeds of whole green pods are the most prized, while those of the brown pods are considered less fragrant. White cardamom are green pods that have been bleached. Cardamom also is a popular spice in Scandinavian baking.
– Cinnamon: The most common variety used in this country comes from the Cinnamomum cassia trees of China, Vietnam and Indonesia; “Ceylon” cinnamon, rarely used here but often exported to Mexico and South America for use in sweets, has a much milder essential oil and is considered too weak for American tastes. Use cinnamon in hot oatmeal with golden raisins; in spaghetti sauce; or in a casserole of baked cubed lamb, onions, almonds, garlic and yogurt over pilaf. And when was the last time you had good ol’ cinnamon toast?
– Cloves: Just as much as turkey and stuffing, a baked ham stuck with cloves is a must for some people at Christmas. But the tight, dried clove flower buds have such intense flavor that not everyone is comfortable using them in other foods. Stick to preparations where cloves are offset by other flavors, such as sugar and vanilla in spice cookies or bread. Or make a traditional holiday pomander from an orange stuck with whole cloves, to make the room smell nice.
– Ginger: Fresh ginger root is so familiar now from the popularity of pan-Asian foods that the humbler warmth of ground ginger gets overlooked. Crystallized ginger–fresh ginger that has been candied and rolled in sugar–also makes an appearance in festive pastry and breads around the holidays. Grown widely in tropical climates, ginger enhances the flavor of any tropical fruit, from grilled pineapple slices brushed with brown sugar to a shake of pureed mangoes and ice cream. Gingerbread cookies are just the thing for grumpy family members.
– Mace and nutmeg: Indonesia was the world’s only source of nutmeg and its twin, mace, until the late 18th Century. The tree from which we get both, used primarily in baked goods, produces the nutmeg fruit; inside is a lacy coating of mace that covers a seed shell that, in turn, covers the nutmeg seed. Their flavors are similar, although nutmeg is sweeter.
– Vanilla: As if we had to sell you on this one. A favorite dessert flavoring, and a gift to us from ancient Mexico, vanilla has become ubiquitous as a room fragrance and perfume for just about anything. And yes, it’s a spice: a long brown “bean” stick filled with tiny pods. At the market, look for “pure vanilla extract” on the label; otherwise you’re buying a synthetic liquid mixture.
TAKING CARE OF THOSE PRICEY SPICES
Some people think of the sweeter spices as holiday-only ingredients because these seasonings are expensive.
The cost is related to the labor-intensive growing and harvesting of spice plants, their perishability, and the fact that most are imported.
Spices grow stale easily. Try to buy just enough to meet your holiday needs. Keep the bottles and jars cool, dry and dark. Do not store next to or over the stove, for instance. Patty Erd of The Spice House in Evanston recommends refrigeration to prolong shelf life; freezing is OK, too, she says, as long as you don’t forget where you put them.
CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING WITH SPICED CREAM
Adapted from “Emeril’s Creole Christmas,” by Emeril Lagasse.
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Standing time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 55 minutes
Yield: 10 servings
4 large eggs
1 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips, melted
1/4 cup Grand Marnier or other orange-flavored liqueur
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups half-and-half
8 slices day-old white bread, crusts removed, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 cups semisweet chocolate chips
Spiced cream, recipe follows
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Whisk together eggs, sugar, melted chocolate, Grand Marnier, cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla in large mixing bowl until very smooth. Add half-and-half; mix well. Add bread; let mixture sit 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. Pour half of mixture into buttered 9- by 5-inch loaf pan. Sprinkle top with 2 cups chocolate chips. Pour remaining bread mixture over chocolate chips. Bake until pudding is set in center, about 55 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes. Cut pudding into 1-inch-thick slices. Top with spiced cream.
Spiced cream: Beat 4 cups whipping cream with an electric mixer on high speed in a large bowl until soft peaks form, about 2 minutes. Beat in 1/4 cup sugar, 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon and 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg.
Nutrition information per serving (without spiced cream):
Calories …….. 500 Sodium ……. 190 mg Fat …….. 24 g
Carbohydrates .. 69 g Cholesterol .. 105 mg Protein ….. 8 g
NEW WAVE EGGNOG
Adapted from “An Edible Christmas,” by Irena Chalmers.
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes
Cooling time: 4 hours or overnight
Yield: About 1 quart
4 cups half-and-half
1 1/2 cups sugar
12 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon allspice
2 cups whipping cream
1/2 cup each: dark rum, bourbon
1. Combine half-and-half and sugar in medium saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring often, until mixture heats to a simmer.
2. Whisk egg yolks in medium bowl until combined. Gradually mix hot mixture into yolks, whisking constantly. Return yolk mixture to saucepan; add nutmeg and allspice. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly with wooden spoon, until custard lightly coats spoon. (An instant-read thermometer inserted in the custard will read 180 degrees.) Immediately strain custard through sieve into large bowl. Cool to room temperature. Cover with plastic wrap; refrigerate until very cold, at least 4 hours or overnight.
3. When ready to serve, whip cream until soft peaks form. Stir whipped cream, rum and bourbon into chilled custard. (Eggnog can be made up to 1 day ahead, covered and refrigerated.) Pour eggnog into punch bowl; serve.
Nutrition information per 1/2 cup:
Calories …….. 670 Sodium …….. 85 mg Fat …….. 44 g
Carbohydrates .. 45 g Cholesterol .. 445 mg Protein ….. 9 g
CARDAMOM TEA RING
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Rising time: 2 1/4 hours
Cooking time: 45 minutes
Yield: One 10-inch cake, 8 servings
Adapted from “The Neighborhood Bakeshop,” by Jill Van Cleave.
1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast
3/4 cup lukewarm milk (105 to 115 degrees
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 large eggs plus 1 egg white
1/2 teaspoon each: salt, vanilla extract
Seeds from 18 to 20 cardamom pods, crushed (1 rounded teaspoon)
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 tablespoon water
1. Dissolve yeast in 1/4 cup of the warm milk in small bowl. Let proof until bubbly, about 5 minutes.
2. Combine butter and 1/2 cup of the sugar in bowl of an electric mixer. Beat at medium-low speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add yeast mixture and 1 cup flour, beating until smoothly blended. Slowly pour in remaining 1/2 cup milk. Add whole eggs, 1 at a time, blending after each addition.
3. Gradually add 2 cups more flour on low speed. Blend in salt, vanilla and crushed cardamom; slowly add 1/2 cup additional flour. Dough should be soft and pliable.
4. Turn dough out onto work surface sprinkled with 1 tablespoon flour. Knead, adding remaining 1 tablespoon flour as needed. Continue to knead until dough is smooth and elastic, 5 minutes. Transfer to large, greased bowl; cover with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature to rise until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours.
5. Combine remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and ground cardamom in a small bowl. Stir until thoroughly mixed; set aside. Grease bottom and sides of 10-inch round cake pan. Grease outside of 2 1/2- to 3-inch ramekin, or a clean and dry aluminum can of similar diameter; place in center of pan.
6. Return dough to work surface; divide in half. Roll each piece into a rope, about 24 inches long. Sprinkle generously with about three-fourths of the cardamom sugar; roll ropes in mixture to coat thoroughly. Cross ropes in center to form an X. Working from the center, twist ropes on one side of the X together, then twist the other side of the X. Transfer the woven length of dough to prepared pan and form into a circle, tucking ends together to seal ring. Cover with towel; let rise at room temperature until doubled, about 45 minutes.
7. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Beat remaining egg white with water in small bowl. Brush dough evenly with egg white and water wash; sprinkle top with half of remaining cardamom-sugar. Bake until golden brown, 40 to 45 minutes.
8. Remove from pan to wire rack. While still hot, brush ring lightly with wash; sprinkle with remaining cardamom sugar. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories …….. 405 Sodium …… 185 mg Fat …….. 14 g
Carbohydrates .. 61 g Cholesterol .. 85 mg Protein ….. 9 g
CHILI-GLAZED SWEET POTATOES WITH CINNAMON AND ORANGE
Preparation time: 30-35 minutes
Cooking time: One hour and 15 minutes
Yield: 8 servings
From “Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen.”
Seasoning paste:
5 garlic cloves, unpeeled
6 medium-to-small (3 ounces total) dried ancho chilies, stemmed, seeded
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/8 teaspoon cloves
1/2 cup chicken broth or water
Potatoes:
3 pounds (about 5 medium) sweet potatoes, unpeeled
1 tablespoon finely chopped orange zest plus thinly slivered zest for garnish
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons melted butter or olive oil, optional, plus extra for pan
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1 or 2 tablespoons creme fraiche or sour cream, thinned with a little milk
1. For seasoning paste, roast unpeeled garlic on ungreased griddle or heavy skillet over medium heat, turning occasionally, until soft (they’ll blacken in spots), about 15 minutes; cool and peel. At same time, toast chilies, 1 or 2 at a time, on other side of griddle or skillet: open chilies flat; press down firmly with spatula; when chilies crackle, only a few seconds, flip and press down to toast other side. Cover chilies with hot water in small bowl; let rehydrate 30 minutes, stirring regularly to ensure even soaking. Drain; discard water.
2. Combine garlic, chilies, broth, oregano, cinnamon, black pepper and cloves in food processor fitted with metal blade or in blender. Process to smooth puree, scraping and stirring every few seconds. (If mixture won’t go through blender blades, add a little more liquid.) Press through medium-mesh strainer into small bowl. The seasoning paste may be made a week or so ahead.
3. Slice each sweet potato into 4 lengthwise wedges. Lightly butter or oil 13- by 9-inch baking dish. Lay sweet potatoes in single layer. Combine chili seasoning paste with orange zest, orange juice and honey. Taste and season with salt (it should taste salty). Spoon evenly over sweet potatoes. Potatoes can be assembled several hours in advance.
4. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Drizzle sweet potatoes with butter, if desired; cover with foil. Bake until potatoes are almost fork-tender, about 45 minutes.
5. Raise oven temperature to 425 degrees. Uncover potatoes; baste with pan juices. Bake until potatoes are glazed and sauce is reduced to medium thickness, 10 minutes. Sprinkle with orange zest, cilantro and drizzle of cream, if desired.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories …….. 185 Sodium …… 435 mg Fat …….. 5 g
Carbohydrates .. 35 g Cholesterol .. 10 mg Protein …. 3 g
