It’s fantasy time: You dream a collection of remarkable Russians–real and fictional–is coming to your home. Tolstoy is bringing Natasha, Rimsky-Korsakov asks whether there is a piano, Mikhail Gorbachev is hoping to meet Czar Alexander III. What can you serve that will make visitors from such different backgrounds and eras feel comfortable?
In a word, zakuska.
What tapas is to the Spanish, what dim sum is to the Cantonese, zakuska is to the Russians and residents of many of the republics of the former Soviet Union. It is a ritual form of entertainment that all Russians–real and fictional–appreciate and enjoy. It’s also a form of entertainment that suits the holiday party season in this country very well because the first rule is that a group of congenial people in celebratory moods be brought together and offered a tempting variety of food and drink.
The masterpiece of Russian cuisine, zakuska (defined as hors d’oeuvre or small bites) offers an array of hot and cold foods, some purchased and others prepared, of whatever degree of elaboration and quantity the host can afford. This is no dry party: Between the taste treats vodka is consumed. (“Don’t gulp it down straight off!” warns Chekhov.)
Culinary historians speculate that the zakuska ritual began in the country homes of wealthy landowners during the 18th Century. In an age without telephones, fax machines or even paved roads, it was difficult to predict guests’ arrival times. Therefore a snack table was set up to keep hunger at bay among those already on the scene and to allow the hostess to gracefully offer new arrivals something to eat as soon as greetings had been exchanged. Also, for those caught in the less-than-stimulating routine of country life, gathering around the zakuska table extended the social part of the day.
Initially, zakuska was merely a warmup for a multicourse dinner. But in the 19th Century, after the custom had been introduced in Moscow’s town houses, the ostentatious would keep a table stocked day and night for buffet dining. By the early 20th Century, zakuska–which had been codified into an elaborate ritual that insisted on strictly symmetrical arrangement of food, drink and tableware–lost popularity because the gentry who practiced it found themselves labeled enemies of the state by Lenin’s revolutionaries.
But the Russian traits of hospitality, generosity, love of food, drink and camaraderie guaranteed the survival of zakuska. Like dim sum, today it often becomes an entire meal.
Chicagoans George and Valerie Samutin prepare a contemporary zakuska. George, a mortgage banker, is a native of Moscow who grew up cooking meals for his mother, a single working parent, and dreamed of becoming a chef. And he is-executive chef of his home kitchen. His recipes are adaptations of traditional fare as recorded in English in books such as “The Art of Russian Cuisine,” by Anne Volokh, and “Elena Molokhovets’ Classic Russian Cooking” in the 1992 Indiana University Press translation by Joyce Toomre.
But he is more likely to cook Italian or Chinese dishes than Russian, except at party time. “It’s so time consuming,” he says. “I don’t have time for it on work nights.”
Valerie is a native Chicagoan who majored in Russian history at the University of Wisconsin. She and George met in 1987 during a student tour of the Soviet Union. They were married two years later. Valerie cooks as well, but leaves the Russian specialties to George and concentrates on the important aspect of table arrangement.
The rule of Russian entertaining, especially with zakuska, George says, is “no holds barred. Everything in the larder goes onto the table.”
The categories to be filled in an ideal presentation include salted and smoked fish; roasted fowl and meat; ham, cold cuts and sausages; salads of vegetables, poultry and fish; poached meat and fish in aspic; pickled and marinated vegetables and fruit; meat- or fruit-filled dumplings; dark and light breads of various textures. Eggs and potatoes will be in evidence, too, along with savory and sweet condiments. Then, one hopes, there will be caviar in several forms, and a spectrum of plain and flavored vodkas. Eventually the guests will turn their attention to fresh and preserved fruits, pastries and tea.
Shopping is as important as cooking to the success of a zakuska party because many of the foods to be served are prepared. (This allows hosts to adjust the menu to suit time available for cooking.) Every Russian considers himself or herself an expert on items such as caviar, smoked salmon and sturgeon, flavored vodka as well as bread and tea. Inferior versions of any of these products will be noticed.
In preparation for a party featuring these substantial snacks, the Samutins first drive to Devon Avenue near Sacramento Street. They always buy hachapuri, a cheese-filled bread from Georgia, at the Argo bakery, 2812 W. Devon Ave., and consume a fair amount of it on the way home. They also look for pitted sour cherries, eggplant paste and poppy seed rolls at Globus, 2909 W. Devon Ave., a rustic period piece of a store. But the action this day is at Three Sisters Delicatessen & Gift Shop, 2854 W. Devon Ave. (See shopping story this page.)
Once home, George takes charge of the kitchen (unremarkable with its four burners, single oven and limited counter space) and quickly turns out a filleted and reconstructed herring, a beet salad with walnuts, boiled new potatoes and other treats. On an antique dumplingmaker that looks like a Chinese checkers board, he uses a rolling pin to force through holes two layers of dough that encase ground meat. These addictive dumplings, a Siberian specialty called pelmeni, will be boiled, then dressed with vinegar, sour cream and dill.
As George works in the kitchen, Valerie prepares the table and a sideboard. A hand-embroidered cloth from Russia goes on the square table. Bowls containing salads, marinated mushrooms and condiments are distributed, the tomatoes and potatoes and breads appear in larger bowls, and platters emerge covered with sliced smoked fish and poached veal tongue in aspic. The chilled vodka and the glasses for it are put in place.
On the sideboard, Valerie marks out spaces for sweets. Then she arranges cups and saucers and spoons of lacquered wood around the vividly painted samovar, which will hold the hot water for the tea that will be sipped in quantity toward the end of the evening.
Valerie offers some advice about vodka to novice zakuska partygoers:
“Exhale,” she says, “then drink back a short shot-not all of it-and inhale. Then remember to eat something. But before you drink again, you must say `nazdrovia’ (cheers) and go clink-clink with the glasses of those close to you.”
With that, let the party begin.
SIBERIAN MEAT DUMPLINGS (PELMENI)
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Standing time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 4-5 minutes
Yield: About 70
Adapted from a recipe by George and Valerie Samutin.
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
3/4 cup cold water
3/4 pound ground beef
1/2 pound ground pork
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1 cup crushed ice
Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 large egg white, lightly beaten
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
Sour cream mixed with chopped fresh dill and/or white vinegar to taste, optional
1. Blend flour and salt in food processor fitted with metal blade. With motor running, add egg though feed tube, pour 3/4 cup cold water in a slow, steady stream, until dough forms ball around blade (add additional water if needed). Transfer dough to floured surface and knead until smooth, about 2 minutes. Cover with towel; let stand 30 minutes.
2. Combine ground beef, pork, onions, crushed ice, salt and pepper in large bowl, stirring until mixed.
3. Divide dough in half; shape into 2 balls. Keep 1 ball covered with towel. Roll out dough on floured surface with floured rolling pin to about 1/16-inch thick, making sure it does not tear. With a cookie cutter or glass, cut out 2 1/2-inch circles.
4. Heat 2 cups salted water in small saucepan to boil over high heat. Place teaspoon of filling toward bottom of one circle. Brush edges of circle with egg white. Fold empty half of dough over filling to form semi-circle. Press edges firmly together with tines of fork to seal. Fold the 2 ends of the semi-circle firmly together over filled portion (like a tortellini); press against dumpling. Boil 1 dumpling, 4 to 5 minutes, to taste filling for seasoning. Pelmeni should be well seasoned.
5. Fill and shape remaining rounds, arranging dumplings on lightly floured baking sheet, about 1 inch apart. (At this point, pelmeni can be frozen. Cover pelmeni with aluminum foil or plastic wrap; place in freezer until frozen. Transfer to plastic bag.)
6. To cook pelmeni, heat 6 quarts salted water to boil in large pot. Drop in half the pelmeni; cook, stirring occasionally, until dumplings rise to surface and are cooked through, about 4 to 5 minutes. Remove pelmeni to colander with slotted spoon; drain. Repeat with remaining pelmeni. Transfer to deep serving bowl; toss with butter. Serve with sour cream, if desired.
Nutrition information per dumpling:
Calories …….. 45 Sodium ……. 40 mg Fat ……. 2 g
Carbohydrates .. 4 g Cholesterol .. 10 mg Protein … 2 g
TART CHICKEN SALAD (SALAT OLIVER)
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour
Yield: 4 servings
Adapted from “Elena Molokhovets” Classic Russian Cooking.”
2 whole chicken breasts
1 large onion, peeled, quartered
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 cup coarsely chopped sour dill pickle
4 boiled new potatoes, peeled, thinly sliced
3 hard-cooked eggs, peeled, thinly sliced
White pepper to taste
3/4 cup each: mayonnaise, sour cream
Leaf lettuce
2 tablespoons capers, drained, rinsed
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
Green olives, tomato wedges, optional
1. Combine chicken, onion and 1 teaspoon of the salt in large pan. Cover with cold water;heat to boil, uncovered, over high heat. Skim off fat and scum. Partially cover pan; lower heat to simmer. Poach chicken 10 minutes, or until cooked through but still moist.
2. Transfer chicken to cutting board; remove skin and bones. Cut meat into half-inch strips. (This may be done ahead. Cover; refrigerate chicken until ready to finish salad.)
3. Combine chicken meat, chopped pickle, potato and egg slices, remaining salt and white pepper in mixing bowl. Combine mayonnaise and sour cream in small bowl. Add half of this dressing to chicken mixture; toss. Adjust seasoning to taste.
4. Make bed of lettuce leaves on plate or small platter. Form salad into pyramid shape in middle of plate. Cover pyramid with remaining dressing or serve it on the side. Decorate salad with capers and dill. Add olives and tomato wedges if you like.
Nutrition information per serving (with all dressing):
Calories …….. 615 Sodium ….. 1,920 mg Fat …….. 51 g
Carbohydrates .. 13 g Cholesterol .. 235 mg Protein …. 28 g
CHOPPED HERRING (RUBLENAIA SELIODKA)
George and Valerie Samutin prepare a contemporary zakuska in their Chicago kitchen.
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Soaking time: 8-12 hours
Yield: 6 servings
Adapted from “The Art of Russian Cuisine,” by Anne Volokh.
1 large salt (schmaltz) herring, about 3/4 pound
Milk
4 slices stale white bread, crusts trimmed
1/4 cup vinegar, mixed with 1 cup cool water1 medium onion, finely grated
1 medium tart apple, peeled, grated
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Parsley sprigs, chopped chives, olives
Sour cream dressing, recipe follows
1. Soak herring in milk to cover for 8 to 12 hours. Drain, skin and fillet herring. Cut fillets into chunks. Soak bread in vinegar-water mixture for 10 to 15 minutes. Thoroughly squeeze out excess liquid.
2. Grind together fillets and bread in food processor or meat grinder but do not puree. Add onion, apple, sugar and oil; mix well.
3. Transfer to serving bowl; garnish with parsley, chives and olives. Serve with sour cream dressing, if desired.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories …….. 250 Sodium ….. 605 mg Fat …….. 13 g
Carbohydrates .. 22 g Cholesterol .. 8 mg Protein …. 10 g
SOUR CREAM DRESSING FOR HERRING
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Yield: About 1 1/4 cups
1 hard-cooked egg, peeled, halved
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon mustard
1 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons vinegar
1. Remove egg yolk from white; mash with sugar and mustard until blended. Add sour cream and vinegar; mix well. Transfer to bowl.
2. Finely chop egg white and sprinkle over herring. Pass dressing.
Nutrition information per 2 tablespoons:
Calories …….. 60 Sodium ……. 20 mg Fat …….. 5 g
Carbohydrates .. 2 g Cholesterol .. 30 mg Protein …. 1 g
BEET SALAD (SALAT IZ KRASNOY SVYOKLY)
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 1- 1 1/2 hours
Chilling time: At least 1 hour
Yield: 6 servings
Adapted from a recipe by George and Valerie Samutin.
1 pound beets, stems, leaves cut away
3 large cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup each, or more to taste, chopped: walnuts, prunes
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
Salt to taste
1. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Wrap each beet in foil; bake until tender, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Let beets cool. Peel; shred.
2. Combine beets, garlic, walnuts, prunes, mayonnaise and salt in mixing bowl. Toss until mixed. Chill until 15 minutes before serving.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories …….. 130 Sodium …… 95 mg Fat ……. 9 g
Carbohydrates .. 13 g Cholesterol .. 5 mg Protein … 3 g
INSIDE A RUSSIAN DELI
Three Sisters Delicatessen & Gift Shop, 2854 W. Devon Ave. (773-973-1919), looks to be just another storefront. But it is a valued resource for many Russian residents of the Chicago area, including George and Valerie Samutin, a young couple shopping in preparation for their New Year’s celebration.
True to its name, there are gift items here as well as food: nesting dolls and plates and glasses and cups for tea from Russia and northern Europe. There’s also a distinctive aroma-a mix of smoke and sugar and dill-that invades your nostrils at the simplest sniff.
Although the clerks speak English, shopping here is not easy. The customers on a weekday afternoon, mostly middle-age or older with heavily lined faces, gather across from the clerks behind the display cases and steadily push toward the front. There is no formal line, no sequential numbers, no personal space. It is disquieting, but seemingly inescapable unless the store is empty.
One large display holds fish, cold- and hot-smoked salmon, smoked sturgeon and sablefish, herring and mackerel, even cod liver.
Valerie Samutin points out the caviar, in containers of different sizes and colors at wildly varying prices. The large, fat, cured herring sold here are less salty than herring sold in jars and cans, she says.
Hanging behind the meat counter is an imposing variety of sausage. In the glass case are a spicy cured meat called bastruma, a variety of cold cuts, loins of smoked pork, short ribs of beef.
On shelves, waiting for the Samutins’ inspection, stand condiments such as tekemalli (a plum and herb spread popular with chicken and meat) and adjika (a red bell pepper sauce for cured meats). There are jars and jars of jams and a plethora of tea and truly delicious fruit juices. Valerie picks out a jar of very pretty, small, whole pickled tomatoes and pickled mushrooms from Poland.
For the famous Russian sweet tooth there are boxes and bars of chocolate and a giant “napoleon” made with phyllo dough and pastry cream. There’s bread from three local bakers and fancy tortes sent from New York City. Home bakers have a wide variety of flours to choose from, including buckwheat and semolina, as well as seeds from poppy to sunflower.
A customer recommends the house-made pierogi. A cheese blintz purchased and eaten on the spot is very tasty-and appreciated. There’s no express checkout at Three Sisters.
