If ever a vegetable has been cast permanently as a supporting actor, it’s the green bean. Thanks to its appealing color, convenient size, ease of preparation and bland taste (which offends only a few over-the-top wine aficionados), the green bean makes countless appearances at family meals, picnics and even state dinners at the White House.
The last time a sizable number of people actively hated the green bean was when it was called a “string” bean and actually contained a tough, string-like substance that had to be pulled away before cooking. Food scientists have managed to solve that problem in most of today’s green beans.
At least two other problems remain, however. Green beans are best eaten young and fresh. Not even Julia Child can revive limp and dull-colored beans (nor does she try). Avoid them in the market. At the stove, the prolonged punishment inflicted by those who boil green beans to the fringe of mushiness is no more disagreeable than the lack of flavor and unwelcome firmness of still-raw beans served by so-called cutting-edge chefs.
I admit an uncommon fondness for green beans, especially when they are fresh enough to have a hint of sweetness. I like them hot–cooked through but still firm–with butter, a little lemon juice and a sprinkling of a freshly chopped fresh herb; or at room temperature with a dressing of olive oil, finely chopped shallots and more lemon or a little balsamic vinegar.
The bean family is a large one, so in addition to a recipe for the standard green bean, I’ve included one for the Chinese long bean and another for the small haricots verts so loved by French chefs.
CHINESE LONG BEANS WITH LAMB
Three or four servings
1/2 pound Chinese long beans, washed, stem ends removed and cut into 3-inch pieces
1/4 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
1/2 teaspoon chili paste with garlic
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 cup green onions, white and some of green, sliced on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces
1/2 tablespoon minced garlic
1 cup seeded, diced tomato
1 cup chicken broth
6 to 8 ounces roast lamb,* lean meat only, cut into 2-by-1/2-inch strips
1/4 cup hoisin sauce
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon sesame oil
* Cooked roast pork may be substituted; if so, omit the five-spice powder
1. In a small bowl, combine the five-spice powder, soy sauce, vinegar and chili paste. Stir well to dissolve the powder. Set aside.
2. In a wok or deep frying pan with a lid, heat the oil until nearly smoking. Add the green onions and toss over medium-high heat for 1 minute. Add the garlic and tomato and toss for 30 seconds. Add the reserved seasoning mixture and the beans. Toss and stir for 1 minute.
3. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer, cover the wok and cook 20 minutes, or until beans are cooked but still firm.
4. Add the lamb and the hoisin. Toss briefly, re-cover the pan and simmer until lamb is heated through, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, make a slurry with the cornstarch and 1 tablespoon cold water.
5. When the lamb is hot, uncover the pan, add the cornstarch slurry and stir until liquid boils and thickens somewhat, about 1 minute. Off the heat, stir in the sesame oil and serve at once over steamed or boiled rice.
GREEN BEAN AND POTATO SIDE DISH
Four servings
1/2 pound green beans, stem ends removed, cut into 2-inch pieces
1 small russet potato, 4 to 5 ounces, peeled and diced
1 tablespoon salt
1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped, plus 2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 small onion, about 4 ounces, peeled and cut into thin slices
4 sprigs fresh oregano, plus 1 tablespoon chopped or 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Fill a medium saucepan halfway with water and bring to a boil. Add the diced potatoes, salt and chopped garlic. Simmer for 5 minutes.
2. Add the onion slices, oregano sprigs and green beans. Simmer until beans are soft but not mushy, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain into a colander. (Recipe may be done ahead to this point; refrigerate until needed.)
3. Heat olive oil in a saute pan. Add drained vegetables, minced garlic, chopped oregano, sherry vinegar and salt and pepper to taste. Toss until heated through and serve with roast lamb, pork or beef.
GREEN BEAN, CHEESE AND OLIVE SALAD
Six servings
2 pounds haricots verts or young green beans
1 teaspoon mustard
4 teaspoons red wine vinegar
5 tablespoons olive oil
1 to 11/2 teaspoons salt
3/4 cup black olives, nioise or gaeta preferred
1/3 cup minced parsley
2 large cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup grated Gruyere or Parmesan cheese
Freshly ground black pepper
1. In a large mixing bowl, combine mustard, vinegar, oil and 1 teaspoon salt. If desired, pit the olives.
2. Sort the beans by thickness, making several separate piles.
3. In a large pan, bring several quarts of water to a boil. Add salt. Plunge the thickest beans into the boiling water first. Count 1 minute after the water boils again and add the smaller beans in turn. Boil the beans until just cooked through but still crisp.
4. Drain the beans well and quickly toss them in the vinegar and oil dressing with the parsley and garlic.
5. Sprinkle cheese and black olives over the beans. Correct seasoning with the remaining salt and freshly ground pepper.
–From “Chez Nous,” by Lydie Marshall (HarperCollins)
