Aging, just like the extra pounds and gray hairs that often come with it, is a process that seems to creep rather than run. And while benchmarks like 30 or 40 still feel youthful, 50 usually gives most of us second thoughts.
Fortunately, “it’s not what it once was because we’re living and staying fit longer,” says Gale Hayman, author of “How Do I Look” (Random House, $24.95) and co-founder of Giorgio, Beverly Hills. “No one dictates anything today based on age,” she adds, pointing out all the over-50 stars who “still look spectacular.”
Of course, stars usually have lots of hired hands to keep them looking great, but experts agree that it can be done on your own. In fact, they say it’s critical for the well-being of an individual of either sex to learn how to address beauty and style issues.
“We’re always evolving as we age, and there are always changes to make,” notes Hayman. The trick is to take the initiative in making the changes.
Confused about what to do? Here’s some image-making and myth-breaking advice from experts on fashion and beauty after 50.
Fashion and style
There’s no denying the fact that our bodies change as we age, says Jeff Stone, co-author of the “Chic Simple” series. (The newest is “Chic Simple Men’s Wardrobe,” Knopf, $30.) He notes that necks, shoulders, arms, chests, waists and hips can all take on larger or smaller proportions.
“Legs are usually the last to go,” says Phillip Bloch, a stylist to the stars in Hollywood and author of “Elements of Style” (Warner Books, $21.99), “a plus that can be critical for women.”
Skin and hair tones also fade, making color another aspect of our wardrobes we have to consider, says Hayman.
Where we are in our careers and the quest for comfort converge at this point in life, with a huge impact on how we dress, adds Stone. Many people start to wear more casual clothes as they age and are no longer willing to sacrifice comfort for style. Stone believes women can be comfortable without resorting to running suits or golf clothes.
“Presumably you’ve also developed your style by now, which means you don’t have to embrace every trend that comes around the pike to try to look 30 years younger,” points out Kim Johnson Gross, Stone’s co-author in the “Chic Simple” series. Here’s how to keep your personal style but adapt it to your age, regardless of sex:
– Twice a year, get out a full-length mirror, try everything on, and de-junk your closet, Gross and Stone advise. The way clothes fit is pivotal to how you look every day, so get the clothes in shape, then get you in shape. “Getting intimate with a good tailor is an important step for both sexes,” says Stone. “Tailoring makes all the difference in the world,” adds Bloch.
– Wear better clothes, Gross and Stone urge. You’re at the point you can afford them, and because the quality is better they fit better, are easier to alter, last longer and add elegance to your look. Instead of a merino sweater or khakis, get cashmere or tailored twills. Well-tailored garments also look better on the body because they have more substance and mask more flaws.
– Don’t buy traditional clothes in “older” styles just because you are aging, says Bloch. Sure, your hemlines may need to come down a bit or the Hawaiian shirt needs to go, but dressing for your age is not about wearing dowdy, boring clothes. “Address the way your shape changes but don’t change your style,” says Hayman. Instead, “try to be more refined and elegant than experimental or avant-garde,” he says.
– Consider color in a new way. The myths about wearing pastels or bolder brights as you age hold no water. Instead, stay away from brights and wear tone-on-tone hues, says Bloch. In general, everything should be a bit more muted, says Stone. Black is also an issue since it can drain already fading color from skin or hair. If you want to or have to wear it, temper the look by wearing a shirt or scarf near your face in a lighter or brighter color, says Hayman.
A few special considerations for men from Stone:
– Check your collar size every year because it can change. This is one body part that usually thins out instead of beefs up, so it’s important to avoid the “turkey-neck look.”
– Wear ties that are less high energy, which are also less apt to clash with things and draw attention to the wrong (and possibly growing) part of the body.
– If you’re starting to get wider, be careful with stripes. They can make you look like a billboard.
For women:
– “If you still have good legs, wear long skirts with slits,” says Bloch. This works especially well for evening dress, he adds.
– “Use accessories and color to your advantage, because they draw attention to or away from certain parts of the body,” says Gross. That means turtlenecks and scarves for wrinkly necks, a belt for a thin waist or that slit for great legs, or a great neckline with jewelry or scarf to draw attention away from a large middle.
– “Tone down your jewelry, but wear earrings,” Hayman advises. That means smaller, simpler pieces and less of it, but a pair of earrings always on your ears to draw attention to your eyes and light up your face.
Hair
Hair definitely changes as we age, explains Clancey Callaway, director of hair technology for Vidal Sassoon. “Hair structure evolves, and we lose density, color, our natural texture and shine,” she explains. For instance, gray hair usually has a coarser texture and less shine, she notes.
In general, hair looks thicker and fuller the shorter it is, which contributes to the notion that women should sport short hair after 40. There are really no rules about this, says Callaway, but long hair can pull down aging faces, so it makes sense to cut hair or wear it in a style off the face if it’s long. For men with some hair loss, it is especially effective to cut hair close to the head because “you’ll get the illusion of a thicker shape,” she notes.
For both sexes, once hair starts to change it’s important to consult a good hair stylist on cut, color and a care plan, advises Callaway, noting that such consultations are free at good salons. There are thousands of tools to employ, from hair colors to conditioning treatments, and an educated stylist should know which are best for you.
If you do color your hair, Hayman suggests going a few shades lighter with age to brighten the face. And for male pattern baldness, Block and Stone warn against growing one long lock and combing it over that bald spot. “It’s tacky and ineffective,” says Bloch. “If it bothers you that much, get a Kangol cap or something similar,” he suggests.
Skin
We all get wrinkles, sun damage and age spots as we grow older, and skin also becomes drier and more fragile. Both sexes should use a moisturizer, an SPF 15 sunscreen product, all the time, Stone says, and possibly some of the new anti-aging skin creams that include AHAs, Vitamin C, Renova or Retina-A. These substances can address sun damage and improve skin texture, but knowing which ones to use for your problems can be confusing without the advice of an expert. Some women also get dark facial hairs with age, adds Gross, so consult a dermatologist about the best way to remove them.
Makeup
“Most women pay attention to how their hair changes but not how their makeup should change,” says Gross, who also has written “Chic Simple Woman’s Face” (Knopf, $30). As you age, she suggests, choose cosmetics that incorporate moisturizer and sunscreen, use softer colors on your face, and opt for lighter formulas in foundations and shadows that won’t emphasize wrinkles (that means lightweight cream formulas and nothing with too much shine, since these products tend to pool in wrinkles).
Hayman addresses specifics. Her first rule of thumb is to lighten the face, then attack areas that traditionally “go first as we age.” Here’s her regimen to counteract five basic problems.
– Brows: If they’re dark, make them lighter or else they will make you look too hard. If they’re sparse, fill in with a neutral taupe pencil.
– Lighten your foundation. The notion of an exact match doesn’t apply as we age because our skin takes on a grayish tone, so take base one shade lighter.
– Use a bit of concealer a shade or two lighter than your skin tone in the hollow corners of your eyes near the nose. This opens and brightens the whole face.
– The natural color of lips fades with age, and lip lines feather, so always line lips with a neutral pencil that has anti- feathering properties.
– There is no need for pastel lipstick. Use bright, clear lip colors, such as bricks, reds, corals, or even the right pinks, as opposed to muddy or trendy colors with brown, blue or purple undertones, which can be very aging.
