“I supposed that all a pilot had to do was to keep his boat in the river, and I did not consider that that could be much of a trick, since it was so wide.”
— From “Old Times on the Mississippi” by Mark Twain
When we were piloting our rented houseboat out of the harbor the second time — after having a new propeller installed and refilling our empty water tank, which was drained overnight by a running toilet — Bob Bishop pointed out to us why his business was called Starved Rock Adventures.
Point taken.
For what some of us had expected of our three days at “sea” on the Illinois River was quaint and rustic adventures a la Mark Twain at best, a la Tammy and the Doctor at worst.
We had envisioned just us, our houseboat and the river. A canopy of trees overhead. And occasionally parking (oops, make that “beaching”) our houseboat to hike through and explore LaSalle County’s natural wonders, such as Buffalo Rock and Starved Rock State Parks.
Kind of naive. This was no oversize river raft. This was a 48-foot-long floating Winnebago. One that could sleep 10 and boasted a bedroom, fully stocked kitchen, including microwave, and a living room with stereo, television, VCR, cell phone and central air. It was a craft that put us city slickers in our river-piloting place.
And the Illinois River turned out to be a major, modern waterway that we shared not only with pleasure craft but also coal-laden barges as they made their way to the Mississippi.
Bishop, the owner of Starved Rock Adventures and its fleet of four houseboats, pontoon boats, speedboats, fishing boats and Waverunners, had tried his best to dispel these notions of a land-and-sea adventure before our two families arrived for his houseboating orientation one recent Friday morning. But it took being out on the Illinois and cruising past the steep bluffs of Buffalo Rock State Park to accomplish that.
We quickly realized there was no access from the river to see the park’s massive earthen sculptures known as Effigy Tumuli. We realized that hiking adventures would have to wait for a different kind of getaway.
This adventure was to be one about two families — four adults and four kids (ranging in age from 3 1/2 to 14) — kicking back. Really kicking back, as we adjusted to the 10-mile-an-hour pace of this extremely comfortable home away from home, learning to navigate with waterway maps and gaining an appreciation for the many needs the river serves.
We took it slow and easy our first day out. It was a day for getting the feel of the Carol Lynn, her sometimes molasses-like response to sweeping turns of the steering wheel. Monitoring the dozen or so gauges and switches that were introduced to us in refresher-course-like speed in our orientation. Testing our radio vocabulary with a few “Roger that’s” and an “I copy” for good measure.
We set out around noon and cruised around Sheehan Island a couple of times, fished with bagel-ball bait until we anchored off a Buffalo Rock State Park bluff for the night.
Though it was a pretty gray and cool day, we were warm and dry inside the houseboat. And we had a magnificent view of the Illinois and her diverse shore — banks of trees dotted occasionally with what looked like quarries and other hard-core industry.
There was time to read. Time to play cards. Time to rest. And time to watch our children experience something totally new and thrilling.
I don’t know whether it was the fresh air or the virtually undetectable water motion, but we all had a great night’s sleep. And the next morning, we woke up energized for more adventures.
Unfortunately, the day’s first adventure was tending to our depleted water supply and broken propeller (none of us is certain how that happened, and it wasn’t discovered until we got back to the marina).
This day we ventured past the town of Ottawa, where Abraham Lincoln and Stephen Douglas held the first of their seven famous debates. To the north, we saw where the Fox River meets the Illinois. To the south were Allen Park and a bright yellow sculpture by the late Ottawa artist Mary Fanning (it’s made of metal salvaged from the old Hilliard Bridge, which carried traffic over the Illinois until it was replaced in 1982 by Veterans Memorial Bridge). We also saw a couple of stately 19th Century mansions. One, a Southern Colonial, we later learned, is the Hossack Residence, which had served as a station on the Underground Railway.
On we went, somewhat confident in our day’s successes. Still realizing our limitations, we dropped anchor before encountering the Marseilles Lock & Dam. We picked a lovely spot just before a river bend — a small island called Bulls Island (how appropriate in wake of the previous night’s victory), with a tiny beach a short shuttle-craft ride away.
The beach was an enchanting place for the kids — an isolated spot to build sand castles and catch (and release) baby walleye pike with their hands in the surprisingly clear water. We wondered about the variety of animals that had left their prints in the sand.
To our surprise, the water was warm even in early June. Though we didn’t try out the water slide from the houseboat’s sun deck, one of our party did take a complete, though unplanned, dive as she attempted to help the kids back onto the houseboat from the shuttle craft.
By dinner, the air had warmed up too. We dined al fresco on the 350-square-foot sun deck. Wine, teriyaki salmon cooked on the boat’s gas grill, asparagus, tossed salad and fruit salad completed the day.
The next day was more of the same, starting with breakfast up top basking in a much more glorious summerlike day. It called for another visit to Bulls Island before we had to head back to the marina for the last time.
It was over all too soon.
We had traveled about 13 miles along the Illinois from our home base. There is plenty more to come back and see as Starved Rock Adventures allows houseboaters to cruise an 80-mile stretch of the river from Henry to Dresden.
It’s not the cheapest weekend getaway. But the cost split between two families makes it a fairly reasonable adventure. And houseboating is a singularly unique experience that pays you back with a new perspective and a wealth of memories and stories to share.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Three-day weekend expenses for two families (eight people):
Houseboat rental (three days, two nights) * ………… $995
Meals ……………………… Bring your own; costs vary
Additional boating costs:
Damage waiver……………………….. $60
Shuttle craft rental*……………….. $117
Boat gas …………………………… $55
Gas, tolls ………………………….. $9
Total …………………………… $1,236
* See If You Go for details.
IF YOU GO
– GETTING THERE
Starved Rock Adventures is in Ottawa, Ill., about 85 miles from Chicago. By car, take Interstate Highway 55 south to Interstate Highway 80. Go west to exit 81, then south about 3 miles through the town of Utica, turn left at Dee Bennett Road (just before the bridge). Go 3.2 miles to Starved Rock Marina, turn right.
– THE BOAT
The houseboat had one bedroom with a full-size bed, sleep quarters with double bunk beds, a queen-size sleeper sofa in the living room, and the dining area converted (quite cleverly) into a queen-size bed.
Since you are in the middle of the Illinois River, you run your own restaurant. Our houseboat had a four-burner gas range, oven, microwave, refrigerator/freezer and gas grill. Kitchens are stocked with pots, pans, cooking utensils, tableware, flatware, glasses, coffeemaker, cutting board, dish towels and dish soap.
Our three-day, two-night rental rate of $995 applies to the spring and fall seasons (the spring season was April 17-June 18; the fall season will be Aug. 31-Oct. 20). Summer rates (June 19-Aug. 30) are $1,295, or $1,095 for a four-day (Monday through Thursday) rental.
Starved Rock Adventures requires that each houseboat be accompanied by a small motorboat; this fee ($39 per day) would not apply if renters supply their own.
Starved Rock Adventures charges a $500 security deposit, which is refundable. No checks; MasterCard and Visa only.
– INFORMATION
Call 847-843-7625 or 815-434-9200 or visit the Starved Rock Adventures Web site at www.srarock.com
