After a wilting hot summer, fall is the season for crisp, cool starts. And wardrobes are one of the first things to snap out of heatstroke mode.
But reinvigorating a wardrobe isn’t all that easy, points out Bernadette Semavoine, vice president and managing director of the New York branch of PromoStyl, an international trend forecasting firm based in France. Quality clothes are expensive, and the profusion of trends coming from the fashion runways can be confusing.
So how can you give an existing wardrobe an injection of energy without an overdose of dollars and drama? “You should only take trends to a certain level,” suggests retailer Joan Weinstein, who owns Ultimo, Jil Sander and Armani. Acquire the elements that work best for you, which requires factoring in your body type, age and needs.
“That’s called having style,” she says.
Start planning your budget and buys now, and think in terms of themes. Here are a few that go the distance from designer runways to real-woman clothing racks, according to Semavoine and Weinstein:
-Black is giving way to a new basic-gray, which will be the biggest color of the season. Deep purple, red and sherbet-tinted pastels, which happen to be great with gray, also will be important, as well as winter white.
– Fabrics will be lightweight yet bulky with unusual finishes that add texture or dimension, such as brushing, felting or boiling. High-tech fabrics that are sensual and comfortable will create the right effect. And all fabrics will be used in new ways; watch for boiled-wool dresses or knits trimmed with fur (either faux or the real thing).
– Garments’ shapes will be simple and streamlined, but many will be embellished. All sorts of clothes, even sheath dresses in fabrics such as tweed, will feature beading, embroidery, metallic touches and trim.
– Shirts, blouses, blazers and suits with tailored jackets are out, and sweaters (or sweater sets and knit outfits) are in. Even items that traditionally feature finely tailored details, such as blazers and pleated skirts, are showing up in knits.
– Chunky sweaters with lots of texture are becoming the signature piece for many designers this fall. Whether long or short, they all sport unusual detailing, such as bias seams that snake around the body or chunky padded necks.
– Long, lean, streamlined skirts to the ankle or pencil-slim skirts just below the knee will be the most popular lengths, especially knit versions with knife-wide pleats.
– Pants will occupy opposite ends of the spectrum, with versions that are wider, softer and often topped with drawstring waistbands sharing the racks with narrow, tailored trousers. Cargo pants are evolving, with many sporting drawstring waistbands or narrower legs.
– Shoes also will hit both ends of the spectrum, with loafers and sport shoes occupying one end and very ladylike slipper-style pumps at the other. In general, shoes will be much flatter (gone are the stilettos of recent seasons, save for dress).
– Accessories also will enjoy a resurgence. Scarves and jewelry as well as belts, bags and shoes will be used in a big way to accent the grays this fall.
– Luxury will be indiscreet, whether in the form of fur or pricey skins, such as crocodile on shoes, belts and bags. Cashmere is the fiber of choice. But everything will have sporty, simple lines despite the luxurious fabrications, which proves that opposites (minimalism and opulence) can attract.
