It was tempting to test at least 20 more recipes than we did from ” The Bread Bible,” by Beth Hensperger (Chronicle, $32.50). Although the hefty hardcover contains 300 recipes and no photographs, the selection of rustic breads, savory loaves, muffins, coffeecakes, dinner rolls and other baked yummies sounds inviting enough to keep hungry people in the kitchen for weeks.
Luckily, what we did try was great. Hensperger, a baking authority, has enough experience to present breads as basic as whole wheat or as unusual as a loaf made with roasted chestnuts; American cornbread gets every treatment from buttermilk to blue corn to cornbread made with yogurt and orange zest.
It seemed like a good idea to start by testing this “bible” by trying out the recipe for the French classic, pain de campagne. Hensperger offers what she calls a “home-style” version of the bread as it is made in the celebrated Poilane bakery in Paris. This recipe isn’t complicated, but it does require three days of patience to see it from starter to finish. The reward was a worthy round loaf with a nice whole-wheat flavor and terrific chewy texture that would make it a natural for sandwiches or toasted with melted cheese. The crust somewhat lacked the crispiness you find from professional ovens, so it wouldn’t be confused with a Poilane original, but the bread stands up to many fancy loaves sold around town these days.
For a savory turn, the next choice was a bread made with Cheddar cheese and toasted sesame seeds. The good-looking loaf could have used more cheese throughout, but the crumb was firm and fine, with the perfect texture for toasting. Making the bread into mini loaves, a suggested alternative, would create a great accompaniment to soup or salad.
Something sweet was in order, of course, and the cinnamon rolls with Irish cream glaze or the fig and walnut scones would have been nice. But a blueberry buttermilk coffeecake with lemon sauce sounded like just the thing, and was it ever good. The crumb topping with grated lemon zest, over a moist and light coffeecake shot through with warm berries, was good enough to eat even without the light lemon sauce. The easy recipe would be great for breakfast, at tea or for dessert in the summer; it’s an all-purpose pleasure.
Bread machine owners will find a fairly generous chapter on “Robotic Kneads,” and the “Fast and Beautiful” chapter deals with food processor breads. Two pages are devoted to equipment, and mail-order sources for unusual flours, grains and tools are included.
Directions are clear and easy to follow, although baking beginners might feel more comfortable using a book with photographs and perhaps illustrated step-by-step instructions.
A glossary and easy-to-follow tips, such as how to store and reheat bread, round out this book, a keeper for anyone who likes to bake or plans to get started.
CHEDDAR CHEESE BREAD WITH TOASTED SESAME SEEDS
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Rising time: 2 1/4 hours-2 3/4 hours total
Baking time: 40-45 minutes
Yield: Two 9-by-5-inch loaves
From “The Bread Bible,” by Beth Hensperger.
1/3 cup sesame seeds
2 cups warm water (105 to 115 degrees)
1 tablespoon (1 package) active dry yeast
Pinch of sugar
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons salt
2 large eggs, at room temperature
5 1/2 to 6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour or bread flour
3 cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
1. To toast the sesame seeds: Place them in a small skillet over medium heat. Shaking the pan often, cook until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Immediately remove the seeds from the skillet to a small bowl to cool completely.
2. Pour 1/2 cup of the warm water in a small bowl. Sprinkle the yeast and sugar over the surface of the water. Stir to dissolve and let stand at room temperature until foamy, about 10 minutes.
3. In a large bowl using a whisk or in the work bowl of a heavy-duty electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the remaining 1 1/2 cups warm water, oil, salt, eggs, sesame seeds, 2 cups of the flour, and the yeast mixture. Beat hard until smooth, about 1 minute. Add half of the shredded cheese and the remaining flour, 1/2 cup at a time, until a shaggy dough is formed. Switch to a wooden spoon when necessary if making by hand.
4. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth and silky, about 4 minutes, dusting with flour only 1 tablespoon at a time as needed to prevent sticking. If kneading by machine, switch from the paddle to the dough hook and knead for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and springy and springs back when pressed. If desired, transfer the dough to a floured surface and knead briefly by hand.
5. Place the dough in a greased deep container. Turn over once to coat the top and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
6. Gently deflate the dough. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Grease two 9-by-5-inch or six 5 1/2-by-3-inch loaf pans. Pat the dough into a thick, 12-inch-long rectangle. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese, fold the dough around the cheese, and knead gently a few times to distribute the cheese throughout the dough (see note). This will produce the marble effect. Cover the dough with a tea towel or plastic wrap to prevent drying and let rest 5 to 10 minutes on the work surface to relax the dough. Divide the dough into 2 equal portions and shape each portion into a rectangular loaf. Place each loaf seam side down into the loaf pans. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise until double in bulk or 1 inch above the rims of the pans, about 45 minutes.
7. Twenty minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Using kitchen shears, gently snip each loaf 5 or 6 times at a 45-degree angle 2 inches deep and down the length of the loaf, to create a pronounced off-center jagged pattern. Place the pans on a rack in the center of the oven and bake 40 to 45 minutes for the standard loaves or 25 to 30 minutes for the mini loaves, or until the loaves are golden brown and sound hollow when tapped with your finger. Transfer the loaves immediately to a cooling rack. Cool completely before slicing.
Tribune test kitchen note: We thought the cheese wasn’t distributed very evenly. We recommend that after patting dough out into rectangle, sprinkle with cheese. Roll dough to create cheese spiral on inside. Bake as instructed above.
Nutrition information per serving (calculated by the Tribune
Calories ………… 190 Fat ………… 8 g Saturated fat .. 3.4 g
% calories from fat .. 36 Cholesterol .. 30 mg Sodium ……… 290 mg
Carbohydrates …… 23 g Protein …….. 8 g Fiber ……….. 1.1 g
BLUEBERRY BUTTERMILK COFFEECAKE
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 50 minutes-1 hour
Yield: One 9-inch cake, 12 servings
From “The Bread Bible,” by Beth Hensperger.
Crumb topping:
1/4 cup sugar
3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
Grated zest of 1/2 lemon
3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter
Cake:
2 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup buttermilk
2 large eggs
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
2 cups fresh or unsweetened frozen blueberries, rinsed and dried
Warm lemon sauce:
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup sugar
Grated zest of 2 lemons
1 tablespoon cornstarch
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper and grease the sides.
2. To prepare the crumb topping: In a small bowl, combine together the sugar, flour, and zest. Cut in the butter with a pastry cutter or 2 knives until the mixture forms coarse crumbs.
3. To make the cake: In a large bowl combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, sugar and salt. In a large bowl using an electric mixer, combine the buttermilk, eggs and butter. Stir into the dry mixture and beat until well blended. Fold in the blueberries with a few swift strokes.
4. Spoon the batter into the pan, smooth and sprinkle with the crumb topping. Place the pan on a rack in the center of the oven and bake 50 minutes to 1 hour, or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean.
5. Let the cake cool in the pan 15 minutes. Remove the sides of the springform pan to cool the cake completely.
6. To prepare the warm lemon sauce: Combine the lemon juice, 1/4 cup water, sugar and zest in a medium saucepan over medium heat and heat just to dissolve sugar.
7. Dissolve the cornstarch in 1/4 cup water. Add to the hot lemon mixture. Stir constantly with a small whisk until the mixture comes to a boil, thickens, and turns clear. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter.
8. Serve the cake in a pool of lemon sauce.
Nutrition information per serving (calculated by the Tribune
Calories ………… 375 Fat ……….. 15 g Saturated fat .. 9 g
% calories from fat .. 35 Cholesterol .. 70 mg Sodium …… 245 mg
Carbohydrates …… 57 g Protein …….. 5 g Fiber …….. 1.7 g
