There’s no substitute for the pungent bite and warmth of pepper, produced from the berries of an Asian vine, Piper nigrum. But compared with many other cuisines, much of American and European cooking uses pepper conservatively. A sprinkling, grating or, occasionally, an eighth teaspoon of black pepper, made from sun-dried berries, is usually plenty. The exception is meats grilled au poivre (with cracked peppercorns pressed into the surface).
By contrast, for many African meat dishes, black pepper is measured out by the spoonful. Even Yorkshire hot pot, a classic English lamb stew, calls for 2 or 3 teaspoons.
White peppercorns, milder than black pepper and preferred in light-colored dishes, are produced by hulling dried ripe pepper berries. Green peppercorns, prepared from immature berries, are packed in brine or water or freeze-dried. Their tangy astringency is fundamental to tartar sauce, and they are often combined with white or black pepper in fish and meat dishes.
Here are some tips for cooking with pepper:
– Whole black or white peppercorns keep indefinitely in a cool, dark, dry place; ground pepper loses quality after 3 months.
– Whole peppercorns yield their flavor and heat only when cracked or ground.
– Water-packed green peppercorns will keep in an airtight container for up to one week; brined peppercorns will keep for one month. Discard green peppercorns when they darken.
– Freeze-dried green peppercorns will keep in a cool, dry, dark place for up to six months.
PORK WITH PEPPERCORN SAUCE
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 50 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Fresh pork is safe to eat when the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees (medium) or 170 degrees (well done). To check for doneness in sliced pork and other thin cuts, use an instant-read digital thermometer, which registers the temperature in about 10 seconds. Insert the probe at least an inch deep into the meat toward the end of the cooking time.
2 large navel oranges
5 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/2 pounds lean, boneless pork loin, sliced 1/2-inch thick
1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste
Freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon orange liqueur, such as Grand Marnier
1 cup beef broth
1 teaspoon green peppercorns, drained, rinsed, crushed
Parsley or watercress
1. Zest 1 of the oranges; sliver zest. Blanch zest in boiling water to cover, 10 minutes; drain. Peel and section zested orange; set aside. Juice remaining orange; set aside.
2. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in small, heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir in sugar until sugar melts and mixture turns golden, 10-12 minutes. Add orange juice and zest (mixture will seize up but will liquefy again during heating). Cook over low heat until sauce is smooth and thick, about 10 minutes. Set aside.
3. Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter plus oil in large, heavy skillet until hot. Season pork with salt and pepper. Increase heat to high; saute meat rapidly on both sides until browned and internal temperature reads 160 to 170 degrees, 3-5 minutes per side. Remove pork from skillet; keep warm on serving plate. Add liqueur; cook, stirring constantly until reduced to glaze, 1-2 minutes.
4. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add broth and peppercorns to skillet. Increase heat to high; cook, stirring constantly, until liquid reduces to 1/3 cup, about 8 minutes. Add reserved orange sauce, salt and black pepper to taste. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer 2 minutes.
5. Cut remaining 2 tablespoons butter in small pieces. Remove pan from heat; whisk butter, piece by piece, into skillet. Add any juices accumulated on platter from pork to sauce. Place orange sections in sauce. Pour thin layer of sauce and orange sections over pork; garnish with parsley or watercress.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 485 Fat ………… 30 g Saturated fat .. 14 g
% calories from fat .. 55 Cholesterol .. 140 mg Sodium ……. 715 mg
Carbohydrates …… 17 g Protein …….. 40 g Fiber ……… 2.4 g
