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I’ve never liked heights. So it came as no surprise that butterflies cartwheeled in my stomach as my boyfriend and I stood in line to board the 205-foot-tall Magnum XL-200, Cedar Point amusement park’s record-breaking steel roller coaster.

After nearly an hour’s wait, it was our turn to conquer this iron beast, which when it opened in 1989 was the first coaster in the world to top 200 feet. Within moments of being locked into our seats, the attendant “ignited” the Magnum, catapulting us up the incline. Once the coaster passed its zenith, it gained speed, looping and swerving at speeds up to 72 m.p.h. The Magnum was so powerful it swept my favorite baseball cap away as I held on for dear life, eyes shut tight.

I could hear my typically tranquil boyfriend screaming. Excitement engulfed my body. Finally, I was able to open my eyes and enjoy the final 30 seconds of this 2 1/2-minute ride.

Cedar Point is both a resort and an amusement park. Nestled on a peninsula in Lake Erie, the park is bordered by water on three sides. As we drove up the park’s causeway on a dreary Friday in May after a six-hour drive from Chicago, the view was astonishing. Rides that towered more than 200 feet looked menacing, while the water-laden borders looked refreshing.

The park’s 364-acre location is the perfect spot to showcase three resort hotels, a marina, an RV campground, a water park and a beach, as well as the gigantic theme park featuring 67 rides and 13 roller coasters.

Dating back to 1870, Cedar Point claims to be the second oldest amusement park in North America. Currently it holds three titles in the “Guinness Book of Records”: Theme Park With the Greatest Number of Rides (56 in Guinness but now 67), Theme Park With the Greatest Number of Roller Coasters (12 in Guinness, now 13) and Tallest Freefall Ride (Power Tower). Some industry surveys have also named it the Best Amusement Park in the World.

We originally had planned to visit two other amusement parks in Northern Ohio during our three-day, two-night trip. But we quickly decided there was so much to do at Cedar Point that we would barely be able to cover its territory.

Arriving during the park’s less busy off-season helped us get the most from the visit. But there was also the potential of a downside — and we got it. The brisk wind and cool temperatures convinced us not to try any outside water activities, including Cedar Point’s Soak City water park. And Friday it rained. Like most amusement parks, Cedar Point shuts down some of its rides during rain — and does not give refunds.

So, instead, on our first day we visited the Challenge Golf miniature course, where we played 18 holes, and the Triple Challenge Racepark, a 1,180-foot long miniature version of the Indianapolis Motor Speedway where we pretended (at 18 mph) to be race car drivers. Both parks adjoin Cedar Point and were across the parking lot from our hotel.

We had chosen the Hotel Breakers after checking it out on Cedar Point’s Web site because of its location and the package deals it offers during the off-season. The historic hotel, we learned, is undergoing major expansion this year and will include a 10-story wing, Breakers Tower, featuring an extra 230 rooms and suites, an atrium-covered pool, T.G.I. Friday’s restaurant and an arcade. It also offers complimentary shuttle service and a view of the beach.

During check-in in the hotel’s main section (Breakers Tower was not available when we made reservations), the desk clerk told us we had saved about $300 by getting the package.

On Saturday, we were able to enter the park an hour early because we were staying at one of the resort’s hotels. We took the advice of the hotel’s shuttle bus driver and began our Cedar Park adventure at the back of the park and worked our way forward — a great tip.

After the gates opened at 10 a.m. and the crowds began to swell, our sense of specialness wore off as waits in line for the popular rides grew from 30 minutes to an hour. It took roughly 4 1/2 hours to conquer five major thrill rides and to wear out our feet.

Time for some rest. We had our hands stamped, so we could return later without paying again, and used the break to peruse the local outlet mall and shopping centers, and to enjoy the view of the beach, outside pool and jacuzzi from our room.

After our three-hour break, we returned to the park. We spent some time taking pictures (the park does not allow picture taking while on the rides) before we returned to the lines — which were much longer than when we left. We still managed, however, to “slay” the Raptor, the Mantis, the Mean Streak and the Iron Dragon.

We had avoided the ride with the longest line — the Power Tower — for most of the day. But 30 minutes before the park closed we saw the wait had dwindled to 45 minutes, and since anyone in line before closing gets to ride, we decided the time had come.

It was worth the wait to see manly men become screaming banshees. The sheer exhilaration of being dropped 300 feet at 55 mph brought tears to my eyes — and the remnants of a co-rider’s dinner to the surface. When the ride was over, we silently thanked the Power Tower designer for creating the ultimate thriller.

All totaled, we rode about 15 of Cedar Point’s most popular thrill rides — a great feat considering Saturday is the busiest day at the park.

Before my trip to Cedar Point I had been a thrill ride neophyte, my experience limited to a couple of wooden coasters and a few other rides. Now, I was a seasoned rider, able to tackle coasters big and small, stand-ups and sit-downs, loopers and straight-shooters. Cedar Point was my rite of passage and my boyfriend’s right to act like a kid. Our only regret was beginning the journey with the Magnum, one of the best rides the park offers.

Besides all of the rides, we were truly impressed by the hospitality of park employees. For example, after I lost my hat on the Magnum, I asked a nearby custodial worker where I could go to buy a new one. She gave me three choices, as well as directions to all of the shops — and even offered to help orientate me on the park’s map.

We weren’t traveling with children, but if we had been we could have taken advantage of Cedar Point’s Parent Swap. The program allows parents with small children who want to ride height-restricted rides to alternate watching the little ones. (Don’t worry, the person watching the child does not have to return to the end of the line after the first parent has ridden.)

Those too small for the big thrills have some special areas of their own, including Kiddy Kingdom and Gemini Children’s Area, and Camp Snoopy with its Woodstock Express — a 38-foot family roller coaster that is perfect for young coaster-riders-in-training.

As for the food, about halfway through the day, I began to feel like Templeton, the gluttonous mouse from the popular children’s cartoon “Charlotte’s Web.” Although I pride myself on my propensity for healthy living and eating, my willpower crumbled under the smell of elephant ears, pizza, grilled fare and more.

With the hotel package, we had received $30 in “munch money” coupons. The six coupons could be used only at designated food vendors, but the real catch was that no change was given if you used a $5 coupon for less than that amount.

Being a penny-pincher has taught me not to devalue the brown ones, so with there being two of us, more often than not we chose to add cash to the coupons. Most snack items cost between $2.75 and $4, though $5.75 for a mega-milk shake at the new Coasters diner was too rich for my blood.

The food at the Silver Dollar Cafe, Chuck Wagon, Macaroni’s and Old Fashioned Chicken BBQ, all located within the park, might not beat grandma’s cooking, but it beats the heck out of cotton-candy overload. Just outside the gates, visitors can indulge in fancier fare. The Bay Harbor Inn, The Boathouse and Breakwater Cafe all offer variety to the snack-weary.

We also decided to venture to restaurants in the town of Sandusky — especially when it rained again on Sunday, our last day. The prices were better, but be prepared to wait at popular spots like T.G.I. Friday’s and Shoney’s, where we had brunch before heading home.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Weekend expenses for two:

Hotel package(includes two nights lodging, one-day tickets and $30 coupon book) ………………. $257

Gas ………………………. $45

Tolls …………………….. $23

Parking ……………………. $6

Food ……………………… $88

Challenge Golf …………….. $12

Triple Challenge Racepark …… $12

Souvenirs (one hat) ………… $10

Total ……………………. $453

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE

Cedar Point is in Sandusky, Ohio, which is roughly halfway between Toledo and Cleveland on Lake Erie. The 317-mile drive from Chicago takes about 6 hours. Take Interstate Highway 80/90 (the Indiana Toll Road/Ohio Turnpike) to Exit 118 (U.S. Highway 250 west) and follow the signs. Round-trip tolls are about $23. Parking is $6.

WHEN TO GO

Cedar Point is open daily May 9 through Sept. 6 from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. (midnight some weekends during peak season). The park reopens for “bonus weekends” Sept. 12, 18 and 19 and for “HalloWeekends” Sept. 24-26 and Oct. 1-3 and 8-10.

To avoid long waits for the most popular attractions, visit the park during its off-season, May-June or September-October, when discounted hotel packages also are available (see below). Best days to visit: Tuesday-Thursday; Saturdays are busiest.

ADMISSION

Prices are based on age and height. One-day admission to Cedar Point for ages 4-59, 54 inches and taller, is $32.95. Those same ages between 48 inches and 54 inches pay $27.95, and under 48 inches $8.95. Children 3 and under are admitted free, and persons 60 and older are $18.95. There are separate admission prices to Soak City, RipCord, Challenge Golf and Triple Challenge Racepark.

LODGING

Cedar Point offers three resort hotels: Hotel Breakers, Sandcastle Suites and Radisson Harbour Inn. Rooms at the resorts range from about $125 to $305 per night. Package deals including park admissions are available in May, June, September and October. Contact Cedar Point resorts at 409-627-2106 for fall prices, reservations and information.

There also are plenty of chain hotels and motels within a few miles of the park for those who don’t want to stay at the resort.

INFORMATION

Contact Cedar Point at 419-627-2350; www.cedarpoint.com.