Maybe it’s not fair to commend South Haven for its great beaches — after all, the coast was there before South Haven was. But they’re a beautiful solution for anyone in dire need of a beach vacation. And this veteran resort town — a summer destination since the turn of the century — knows how to extend hospitality and amenities to the thousands who flock here for its super location along Lake Michigan.
Let’s be clear that “beach,” in this context, isn’t about parasailing, windsurfing, pelicans and Sailor Bob’s Dolphin-Watch Cruise. This is “beach” as in vegetative state on warm sand. (Yes, this can be done on Oak Street but that’s not a vacation.)
There are, of course, differences between an ocean and a lake, even a Great one. South Haven’s beaches aren’t as long or vast as, say, Florida’s or Hawaii’s because a lot of it is privately owned. Anyone strolling along the shore will soon find herself face-to-face with a “No Trespassing!” sign, and long walks must be replaced with short ones. Still. What you lack in seashells and strolls you make up for in proximity. South Haven is just two hours away from Chicago (excluding rush hour traffic and construction snags), and its beaches, like the town itself, are beautifully maintained. Want another bonus? At dusk, you’ll be rewarded with a fabulous sunset.
The city is easy to navigate, once you acquaint yourself with the main drags. You’ll also appreciate the abundance of parking spaces, many of them free, that accommodate travelers throughout the business district. Even on a Saturday there was plenty of room for one more car filled with out-of-towners.
Rooms are numerous but might be tough to find if you don’t give yourself enough time to book in advance. Our stay at Sleepy Hollow Resort — a 24-acre spot with 82 units divided among cottages, 1-, 2- and 3-bedroom apartments, kitchenette studios and hotel rooms — was determined less by keen intuition than the fact that it was the first place I called that had a vacancy. We wound up in a tiny room above the main office. It was clean and perfectly acceptable, though more reminiscent of a college dorm (two twin beds, shower only), and $115 a night — fairly reasonable by peak season standards. What it lacked in size and luxury it made up for with one key element: Our visit coincided with searing 90-plus temperatures, and the office-top hotel rooms are the only accommodations at Sleepy Hollow that are air conditioned. The staff and service could not have been better.
Like many South Haven destinations, Sleepy Hollow has a long history. The resort dates back to the ’30s. Many of the town’s bed-and-breakfasts and hotels go back even further, some to the late 19th Century. The resort’s peaceful, bucolic setting belies the amenities and activities available to guests. The private beach — accessible via a long, winding staircase — is big and lovely; same goes for the Olympic-size swimming pool. Ichabod’s Deli and Deck serves a casual, well-prepared menu. There’s a media room that screens family movies on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and organized activities and playground equipment to keep kids happy. The cozy Legend Theatre, on the grounds, presents productions June through September.
As nice as Sleepy Hollow’s private beach is, the town’s public beaches are even better. If you can afford only cheaper accommodations away from the water, you’ll still be rewarded when it’s time to hit the sand. South Haven has two large public beaches, South Beach and North Beach, and the much smaller Dyckman Beach. Parking is $5 per day (from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.), though you can even bypass that by parking farther away and walking. We spent part of the day at the larger South Beach, which comes complete with lifeguards and a concession stand, public restrooms and beachhouse.
The story should end here, because the beach is the best and only reason I would go to South Haven. But maybe you don’t want to spend your entire getaway on a beach. Maybe you actually have a life, even on vacations. South Haven can accommodate other interests.
For shopping, head downtown, where you’ll find enough interesting shops to divert your attention for a morning or afternoon. The Blueberry Shop (525 Phoenix St.), owned by the Michigan Blueberry Growers Association, gives you an idea of the general theme of its merchandise: blueberry preserves, blueberry candles, blueberry soap, blueberry playing cards, etc. Or get lost in The Hidden Room Book Shoppe (518 Phoenix St.), brimming with used books, collectibles and antiques. Smaller, elegant gift shops, such as Renaissance and Ode to Joy, are here too.
Old Harbor Village, a pretty shopping center near the marina, also has many shops, though downtown held more interest for us.
If you visit Michigan in July or August, a blueberry-picking session is in order. Michigan is blueberry country, and many U-pick farms dot the areas. We visited DeGrandchamp’s Blueberry Farm a few miles out of town, which features several varieties of plump blueberries ripe for the picking. Wear sturdy shoes and bring a hat. Or, do what we did: Buy a pint or two in the gift shop, along with a variety of blueberry-flavored honeys, mustards and the like.
Another outdoor option is a bike ride along the Kal-Haven Trail, a scenic 43-mile stretch that extends from South Haven to Kalamazoo. A trail pass costs $2 per person per day, or $5 per family per day.
For indoor explorers, the Maritime Museum is geared to those interested in Great Lakes history. Exhibits explore the American Indians, fur traders and sailors, and the crafts they built and used to navigate the Great Lakes. A separate U.S. Lifesaving Service and Coast Guard exhibit is on display in an adjoining building, and the Padnos Boat Shed teaches folks how to build and care for boats. The museum is a quick hit, and well presented — in fact, it probably won’t take more than an hour away from that beach.
For sustenance between tanning forays, a variety of restaurants will accommodate different size pocketbooks. You won’t go broke if you don’t want to. We had a very pleasant Italian meal at Amicarelli Vineyard, and a fancier one at Magnolia Grille, located on a century-old riverboat. For breakfast, Pagnolli’s North Beach Inn provides a cozy setting and dynamite blueberry pancakes.
All right, that’s enough. It’s time to go back to the beach. Trust me. And pass the sunscreen.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Weekend expenses for two:
Room, two nights, including tax …….. $250
Meals ……………………………. $145
Sodas and snacks ………………….. $20
Gasoline …………………………. $15
Admission fees ……………………. $5
Beach parking …………………….. $5
Total ……………………………. $440
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE
South Haven is about 115 miles from the Loop. Take Interstate Highway 94 east until it connects with Interstate Highway 196 in Michigan. Take Exit 20 and turn left onto Phoenix Street, which will lead to downtown South Haven.
LODGING
Rooms for the peak summer season don’t come cheap in South Haven. Bed-and-breakfasts of varying rates are located throughout the city. Though many rooms are booked through Labor Day, they can be found; call the Visitor’s Bureau (see below) for assistance. More vacancies will appear once school starts. When you book, be clear about your hotel’s location and how far you’ll be from the beach and town. Some of the bigger chains off the interstate are not in particularly scenic locations.
Sleepy Hollow Resort (7400 North Shore Drive, South Haven, 616-637-1127) is geared to families, but couples and singles will enjoy its serene atmosphere too. Peak rates (through Labor Day) for hotel rooms start at $115; cottages for a minimum of one week, Sunday to Sunday, start at $790. The resort is open through Oct. 3.
DINING
Amicarelli Vineyard (259 Broadway) serves an array of authentic Italian entrees and pizza. The elegant exterior may put you off if you’re in shorts, but the atmosphere inside is more like a comfortable pizzeria. The thick, sweet marinara sauce that dresses many entrees is tough to beat, and a nice touch in the bread basket is the soft, slightly greasy focaccia.
Magnolia Grille on the Idler Riverboat (515 Williams St.) serves a Cajun and continental menu in an upscale setting on a turn-of-the-century Mississippi Riverboat. We had super-fresh fried perch and very good cilantro-lime salmon. A very nice dinner, with wine, will run around $60 for two (and that’s including tip).
Pigozzi’s North Beach Inn (51 N. Shore Drive) was recommended to us for breakfast, and what a delicious breakfast it was. The casual, homestyle setting finds a match in wholesome options, including oatmeal pancakes, blueberry pancakes, great homemade oatmeal — and delicious coffee. Lunch and dinner also are served here.
ACTIVITIES
DeGrandchamp’s Blueberry Farm (15575 77th St.; 616-637-3915) is open 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily through Labor Day. (It will be open till 8 p.m. during the Blueberry Festival Aug. 12 to 15.) There will be an abundant supply through August. Berries you pick cost 89 cents a pound.
Michigan Maritime Museum (260 Dyckman Ave.; 800-747-3810 or 616-637-8078) is open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and noon to 5 p.m. Sunday year-round. Admission is $2.50 for adults, $1.50 ages 5 through 12 and seniors 62 and older.
Kal-Haven Trail (begins on Wells Street). Passes are required. They cost $2 per day for individuals and $5 per day for families (any size). Bike rental rates vary. Sleepy Hollow rents bicycles to guests for $9 per day or $3 per hour. The price at Outpost Sports (114 Dyckman Ave.; 616-637-5555) is $12 for four hours; $18 for a 24-hour period.
INFORMATION
South Haven-Van Buren County Lakeshore Convention & Visitors Bureau, 415 Phoenix St., South Haven, MI 49090; 800-764-2836 and 616-637-5252; www.southhaven.org.
Travel Michigan, 888-78-GREAT, or visit www.michigan.org.
