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Get ready to wrestle a big hunk o’ meat onto the grill. No wimps allowed this Labor Day.

When you’re fixing to feed a crowd, a 5-pound roast makes more sense than a pile of teeny tidbits, especially if the cooking will be done outdoors.

Although grills are used most often for steaks and hamburgers, they cook a mean leg of lamb, an awesome turkey breast and to-die-for Cornish game hens–with less work.

Heat and smoke do wonderful things for a big turkey roast, turning the skin golden-crisp while leaving the interior juicy. A boneless leg of lamb, grilled and glazed with a honey, wine and ginger sauce, turns a shiny mahogany brown. The slices are crusty around the edges and juicy and pink inside. Cornish hens are real winners.

When deciding which meat to grill, stay away from tough cuts such as eye of round roast that require long, moist cooking to make them tender.

All poultry and many cuts of red meat are prime candidates for cookouts. Pork tenderloins and loin roasts grill up nice and juicy. So do prime rib of beef, rack of lamb, beef filet and, if cooked medium-rare, sirloin beef roasts.

Most large cuts of meat are cooked by the indirect heat method. (Exceptions are large but relatively thin pieces of meat, such as pork tenderloin and butterflied leg of lamb, which cook fine when placed directly over the heat.) Indirect cooking is best for cuts that require a long cooking time. If these cuts were placed directly over the coals, they would burn before they cooked through. To grill by indirect heat on a charcoal grill, a pile of coals is placed on one side of the grill base and allowed to burn until the coals completely ash over. The meat is placed on the grid on the opposite side of the grill, and the lid is closed. For pieces of meat that require longer than 30 minutes to cook, new coals must be added occasionally.

If using a gas grill, light the entire heating element and heat for 15 minutes or according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Then turn off the heat on one side of the grill and place the meat over the unlighted element.

Grilling with indirect heat produces moist meat that is permeated with smoky flavor. If cooked long enough, meat such as chicken and pork will turn almost pink inside and have a tender but resilient texture. That’s real barbecuing, Carolina style.

Direct heat is the cooking style used for hamburgers, steaks, chops and thinner roasts. Direct heat produces a crusty exterior, but the meat cooks through before the outside can become burned.

Wood chips add great flavor to almost any cut of meat. Go easy, though. Use just a scant handful at the beginning of the grilling time, and add a few more chips midway through the process if an especially smoky flavor is desired.

Stay away from mesquite chips or use a very small amount for larger cuts of meat. Mesquite is so strongly flavored that during long, slow cooking the mesquite would give the meat an acrid flavor. Hickory is a fine choice for just about anything you grill.

Wood chips can be soaked in hot water for 15 minutes or so before adding to the coals. Soaking allows the chips to smoke more and burn more slowly. The chips should be added just before the meat is placed on the grill and the lid closed. When the lid is closed, the smoke builds up inside the grill and penetrates the meat.

Wood chips may be used with gas grills too. A chef friend recommends making a 3- to 4-inch “boat” from aluminum foil and placing soaked wood chips in the boat. The boat is placed over the lava rocks or coals. The proximity of the heat causes the chips to smoke.

One last piece of advice: Pay attention to the vent holes on your grill (both underneath and on the lid). Adjusting the vents makes the fire burn hotter or cooler. The fire is hottest with wide-open vents, and coolest with vents that are one-fourth open (don’t close the vents entirely or the fire will go out). For a medium fire, good for most purposes, open the vents halfway.

Marinades add flavor to the cuts of meat in our recipes, but marinating times may be reduced or eliminated if you’re pressed for time. Even without the fancy additions, the blissful marriage of meat and smoke will win you over.

GRILLING FOR A CROWD

Here are grilling instructions for large cuts of meat and poultry.

All cuts should be cooked in a covered grill.

BEEF RIB ROAST

Size: 4 pounds or less

Heat source: Indirect

Grilling time: 18 minutes per pound

BONE-IN LEG OF LAMB

Size: 4 pounds or less

Heat source: Indirect

Grilling time: 20 minutes per pound

BUTTERFLIED LEG OF LAMB

Size: Any weight

Heat source: Direct

Grilling time: 20 minutes

RACK OF LAMB

Size: 2 1/2 pounds

Heat source: Direct

Grilling time: 24 minutes total

PORK LOIN

Size: 4 pounds

Heat source: Indirect

Grilling time: 22 minutes per pound

PORK TENDERLOIN

Size: Any size

Heat source: Direct

Grilling time: 8 to 10 minutes per inch of thickness

WHOLE DUCK

Size: 5 pounds

Heat source: Indirect

Grilling time: 1 hour, 50 minutes

BONE-IN TURKEY BREAST

Size: 5 pounds

Heat source: Indirect

Grilling time: 1 1/2 to 2 hours

WHOLE CHICKEN

Size: 3 1/2 pounds

Heat source: Indirect

Grilling time: 1 1/2 to 2 hours

WHOLE CORNISH HENS

Size: Any size

Heat source: Direct

Grilling time: 50 to 60 minutes

BARBECUED TARRAGON TURKEY BREAST

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Marinating time: 4 hours

Cooking time: 1 1/2 -2 hours

Yield: 6 servings

1 clove garlic, minced

1 cup white wine

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon dried tarragon

Salt, freshly ground pepper

1 bone-in turkey breast half, about 2 1/2 pounds.

1/4 cup soaked hickory chips, optional

1. Combine garlic, wine, oil, tarragon, salt and pepper to taste; mix well. Place marinade and turkey breast in plastic bag; seal. Refrigerate 4 hours or overnight, turning occasionally.

2. Build charcoal or gas fire in half of the grill. Add hickory chips, if desired, when charcoal is coated with white ash or gas grill is heated. Place turkey breast skin-side up on grid opposite fire.

3. Close lid; cook 1 1/2-2 hours, turning occasionally, or until internal temperature of meat registers 170 degrees and juices run clear. Let stand 10 minutes before slicing.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories ……….. 175 Fat …………. 1 g Saturated fat .. 0.3 g

% calories from fat .. 5 Cholesterol .. 105 mg Sodium ……… 65 mg

Carbohydrates …… 0 g Protein …….. 39 g Fiber ………… 0 g

HONEY-GINGER LEG OF LAMB

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Standing time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 20 minutes

Yield: 6 servings

1 piece (1/4-inch thick) ginger root, peeled, minced

1/4 cup honey

2 tablespoons each: olive oil, white wine

1 butterflied half leg of lamb, about 2 1/2 pounds

Salt, freshly ground pepper

1. Combine ginger, honey, oil and wine in lidded jar; shake well. Let stand at room temperature at least 30 minutes to blend flavors.

2. Prepare medium charcoal or gas fire. Season lamb on both sides with salt and pepper. Brush one side with honey glaze. Sprinkle fire with soaked wood chips, if desired. Place lamb on grill, glazed-side down. Brush meat with glaze. Grill about 20 minutes for medium-rare, turning occasionally and basting with glaze.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories ………… 160 Fat ………… 6 g Saturated fat .. 2 g

% calories from fat .. 35 Cholesterol .. 80 mg Sodium ……. 60 mg

Carbohydrates ……. 0 g Protein ……. 25 g Fiber ………. 0 g

GARLIC-MINT GRILLED HENS

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Marinating time: 4 hours

Cooking time: 50-60 minutes

Yield: 4-6 servings

1 1/2 cups fresh mint leaves

10 cloves garlic, peeled

1 dried ancho chili, seeded, stemmed, torn into pieces

1/4 cup each: olive oil, orange juice

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

4 to 6 Cornish hens

1. Place mint leaves in food processor fitted with metal blade; pulse until minced. Drop garlic through feed tube with motor running. Add ancho chili pieces; pulse until minced. Turn off motor; add oil, orange juice, soy sauce, salt and pepper. Process until pureed.

2. Rub Cornish hens inside and out with mixture. Place in large plastic food bag. Seal; marinate 4 hours or overnight.

3. Prepare charcoal or gas grill for direct heat. Place Cornish hens, breast side down, on grill over medium heat. Cover; grill, turning occasionally, until meat reaches internal temperature of 170 degrees, 50-60 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories ………… 485 Fat ………… 28 g Saturated fat .. 8 g

% calories from fat .. 53 Cholesterol .. 180 mg Sodium …… 640 mg

Carbohydrates ……. 0 g Protein …….. 55 g Fiber ………. 0 g