If Mr. Thai were a person, he would be a young, tidy, well-dressed fellow. A family man, he would also have a large culinary repertoire. He’s a teetotaler, too, but he doesn’t mind if you drink.
Except Mr. Thai is a restaurant, not a person. Yet it’s still an acquaintance worth making. This spiffy, attractive, family-run restaurant is only three months old, but the efficient service and nicely turned out dishes belie its youth. Minimal decor is offset by elegant tables and chairs, with spacious seating for 40 in two rooms (how nice that the smoking section and non-smoking sections are separated by a wall).
Despite the name, noodles and rice don’t star in everything, particularly when it comes to the starters. The appetizers are beautiful in and of themselves, but the pretty garnishes make them even more appealing. Bean sprouts, cucumber, tofu and egg are elegantly wrapped in the Mr. Thai spring rolls ($3.75 for two). They’re quite large, each divided into six sections, and served with a rich, fragrant plum sauce.
A bowl of fried tofu ($3.25) arrives on a wooden boat that also holds a bowl of lettuce, shredded cabbage and carrots and a dunking sauce. The tofu triangles are fried to perfection, with a light, golden exterior that holds no hint of grease. Bland by itself, the tofu boasts a pleasant crunchy-soft texture that sets a nice foundation for the sweet and sour sauce that’s also spicy, thanks to a dose of red pepper. Ground peanuts top the dish.
Entrees hold their own after the sparkling appetizers. Again, great care is taken with presentation, and servings are generous. We also appreciate the chef’s attention to heat levels: We ordered one entree very spicy on one visit, and another mildly spicy on a second visit. The dishes were prepared as requested.
Pad khee mao (spicy crazy noodles, $5.50) starts with nicely cooked, thick rice noodles interwoven among large chunks of tender chicken breast and an array of vegetables–crispy carrots and snow peas, soft tomatoes, red bell peppers and onions. Slices of jalapeno add hot sparks. (A shrimp version is $5.95.)
Stir-fried crystal noodles form the foundation of pad woon sen (fried bean thread, $5.50 with chicken, $5.95 shrimp), and their subtle flavor and slippery texture wend their way around bean sprouts, carrots, snow peas and onions. We ordered it with shrimp, and Mr. Thai doesn’t skimp on the shrimp.
Spicy basil leaves with meat ($5.25 chicken or beef; $5.95 shrimp) offers a nice compromise–the basil, stir-fried with peppery seasonings, delivers a heat kick, but it doesn’t spread to the surrounding meat, mushrooms and carrots. The dish suffers slightly from the canned mushrooms.
A more sedate offering is rama chicken ($5.25), marinated chicken breast that is stir-fried with mild herbs and potatoes, and surrounded by florets of crisp-tender broccoli. A sauce of red curry, coconut milk and peanuts enhances the dish. A bowl of fluffy jasmine rice is the standard entree accompaniment.
Mr. Thai does not have a liquor license, but you can bring your own wine or beer. Or skip the booze and try the Thai iced tea or coffee($2), a sublimely sweet blend of Thai tea or coffee and sweetened condensed milk over ice. It’s sweet enough to suffice for dessert, too, though there are more traditional options. Litchi over ice ($2) delivers a refreshing, fruity ending. Canned litchi are used here, and taste like a cross between grapes and pineapples.
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Mr. Thai: The House of Noodles and Rice
(3 forks)
3811 N. Ashland Ave.
773-244-9300
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; until 11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
Credit: A,D,DC,M,V
Noise rating: Conversation friendly
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
