If the long display case filling much of the entryway at Mila’s European Pastry & Cafe doesn’t draw you into this tiny eatery, then the rock-bottom prices will.
Sure, the cream puffs, eclairs, tiramisu, cheesecake slices and cookies are tempting. So are glossy photos of ornately decorated birthday and wedding cakes, promising sweet celebrations.
But pastries are not the only draw at Mila’s. Decent-sized portions of nicely prepared food deserve equal attention.
Most of the food on Mila’s menu, from the potato pancakes to the pierogi, draws its inspiration from central Europe. But Mila’s does bow to its location on a street boasting some of this town’s fine Italian eateries: There’s an Italian beef sandwich ($3.95) and mostaccioli ($5.65) plus a tasty tiramisu ($2). In another nod to the neighborhood’s diversity, Mila’s makes its sandwiches with a variety of breads, including the crusty roll known in Mexico as a bolillo, and lists a Greek salad ($3.50) among its three salad offerings.
The neat-as-a-pin eatery accents its simple white decor with mirrored walls, cool blue-green trim and green cloths over tables that can seat about 65 total. Occasionally, the television on a rear counter chatters away noisily, but it rarely intrudes on conversation. Service is attentive. If conversation at the table does wane, glance up: Drawings of Winnie the Pooh and Tweety adorn ceiling tiles.
Dinner here sticks to the ribs. Consider the Polish plate ($6.50) offered as a special recently. It comes with Polish sausage atop a mound of sauerkraut, a handful of assorted pierogi, a dollop of mashed potatoes, a meat-filled cabbage roll, a potato pancake and sour cream. Potato-filled pierogi are a personal favorite and they don’t disappoint here. Nor did we leave any of the tasty sauerkraut, brightened with bits of carrot. Oh, yes, you also get a roll and butter.
Another candidate for the fill-’em-up patrol is dubbed the Hungarian-style pancake ($4.95), a huge pancake topped with a savory beef-and-vegetable stew. The meat is tender, the gravy flavorful.
We tried the eggplant Parmesan ($6.95) but could barely find the breaded eggplant slices. They were overwhelmed by the amount of meat sauce (a tad greasy) that was spooned on top.
Mila’s does a fine job with tender potato pancakes (six with sour cream or applesauce, $3.85), blintzes (three for $3.85) and tripe stew ($3.95). Pierogi come 10 for $4.50, drizzled with butter and filled with potato, meat, cheese or sauerkraut.
Should you feel the need to supplement the entree, add $2.95 to your tab and you’ll also get soup, garden salad and coffee or tea. No alcohol is served, but diners may bring their own.
More than a dozen cold and hot sandwiches range from tuna salad ($2.75) on through roast beef ($4.25), fried egg sandwich ($2.95) and a Reuben on dark rye ($4.50).
Mila’s rightly takes pride in its soups (cup, 90 cents; bowl, $1.75), including potato, mushroom, creamed broccoli, barley and chicken soup, loaded with flavorful noodles and bits of chicken.
The dessert lineup consists of some pretty standard stuff (an array of frosted cookies, cream puffs, eclairs, napoleons, cannoli), though tiramisu is worth saving room for.
Mila’s serves breakfast all day: Two eggs cost $2.35 with toast, jelly and hash browns (add bacon, ham or sausage and it’s $2.95). Three pancakes ($2.65) and a European omelet ($3.50) with feta cheese, onion, tomato and mushrooms round out the menu.
———-
Mila’s European Pastry & Cafe
(1 fork)
2401 S. Oakley Ave.
773-579-0800
9 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; closed Sun.
Wheelchair accessible.
Credit cards: Not accepted
Noise rating: Conversation friendly
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
