It would be delightful to report that Jalapeno’s, the attractively decorated “cafe & cantina” at 55th Street and Hyde Park Boulevard, is more than just another pretty face. But it’s not. However, it does offer a weekend brunch that is value-priced.
Light and bright, the decor features coral and turquoise colors. Wall panels, a frieze and open umbrellas used as ceiling lamp shades all depict desert vistas and creatures that dwell in the Burrito Trianglea southwest-of-some-border enclave where gnomes combine elements of Cal-Mex, Arizona-Mex, New Mexico-Mex and No-Mex to make menus that convey an illusion of authenticity.
So queso fundido is made with Chihuahua cheese, but also with portobello mushrooms. Cold-water salmon finds its way into a seafood ceviche. Black beans are Cuban, barbecue sauce is sweet, and a chicken Caesar salad comes with Parmesan and anejo cheese.
So what? Not every restaurant with a Latin accent is willing to strive for authenticity with the passion expended at Frontera Grill. So let’s look at the pluses.
The menu informs us that margaritas are “made from scratch,” as are the salad dressings. The waitress’s comment that the soups are “not ready yet” at midday on Sunday indicates they, too, may be made from scratch. There are half-a-dozen burritos for carryout, wrapped in a choice of spinach, tomato or wheat tortillas. Only a single entree, grilled fresh salmon, costs more than $11.
Saturday and Sunday are brunch days at Jalapeno’s. That means fruit juice punch and rapidly addicting cinnamon-raisin whole-wheat muffins that come covered with syrup and threaten to make the thick-sliced challah French toast redundant, plus a buffet of fresh fruit and homemade dessert treats. A mere $6.50 gives you the right to decimate this self-service spread. For an additional $3.45 you may order an entree, the French toast or 10 other creations involving eggs, seafood, chicken or beef.
Chicken sincronizada (a Burrito Triangle name if ever there was one) turns out to be layers of flour tortillas separated by shredded chicken breast, black beans, grilled vegetables and a barely discernible citrus salsa. An ample portion, but boring is the verdict. (It is $8.95 on the regular menu.)
Fresh salmon Jarocho, an 8-ounce portion marinated in a citrus-chipotle sauce and grilled “Veracruz style,” is soft and flaky and has the flavor punch lacking elsewhere. (It is $11.95 at dinner time.) The fajitas platter consists of lots of sauteed green peppers, tortillas, overly thin, thoroughly cooked strips of beef that had been marinated in the house honey-hickory sauce and tiny chunks of pineapple. ($7.95 half-order, $10.95 for full order on the regular menu.)
The entrees are accompanied by ample portions of bland but decent scrambled eggs and hash browns.
We sampled two appetizers from the regular menu. BBQ chicken wings ($5.50) are crisp on the outside, meaty on the inside and well suited to the smoky-sweet flavor of the BBQ sauce. Salty totopos, corn chips spread with black beans, Chihuahua cheese, pico de gallo and sour cream ($5.50), match well with a plain margarita.
Desserts at Jalapeno’s include layer cakes, cheese cakes, cookies, Kahlua mousse pie. ($3.50 each). Small portions offered on the buffet table (they come as part of the $6.50 brunch) are homely but very tasty.
———-
Jalapeno’s Cafe & Cantina
(1 fork)
5498 S. Hyde Park Blvd.
773-643-5500
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.;
11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sat.;
11 a.m.- 9 p.m. Sun. Brunch: 11 a.m.-4 p.m., Sat. and Sun.
Credit cards: A, D, M, V
Noise rating: Conversation friendly
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
