James Peterson is talking about his new book as he lifts a poached chicken from its bath in the Tribune’s test kitchen.
“I see it as a companion, a resource for cooks in the way a dictionary and thesaurus are resources for writers,” he says.
Peterson, author of “Fish and Shellfish,” “Vegetables” and “Sauces,” promises that his latest, “Essentials of Cooking,”(Artisan, $40), is “the comprehensive illustrated guide to cooking techniques.”
To this end, he presents 250-plus core techniques and recipes supported by more than 1,100 photographs.
Be forewarned, this is not a traditional recipe book. Although the formula is given for poaching that chicken, specific amounts of ingredients are not. Thus, the book’s “companion” status. Peterson believes most cooks already possess collections of detailed recipes. So he focuses on the “why” and “how” of making them.
For example, more than 20 color photos provide step-by-step coverage of the preparation (including trussing), roasting and carving of a chicken. Cross-section photos of eggs show the effect of boiling them for 3, 4, 6, 8 and 10 minutes. Another 15 shots accompany the explanation of how to trim and “french” a rack of lamb.
The introductory text explains when cooks would use each technique, while step-by-step directions and the accompanying photographs show how. In addition, “Kitchen Notes and Tips” provide information and cross-references to related techniques.
The book is divided into seven sections, including basics (“Make a Fish Broth,” “Make a Mayonnaise”), vegetables and fruits, fish and shellfish, poultry and eggs, meat, working from scratch (the aforementioned rack of lamb, “Fillet a Salmon”) and a glossary (explanations of building-block techniques, such as pureeing and poaching, plus descriptions of a few tools, including a slicer and a spider. Notes and tip boxes are shaded in a soft green.
There is much to be learned in these pages, and even skimming the entries will bring back temporarily forgotten knowledge and will reassure readers that their sense of certain techniques is correct. The photos are vivid and uncluttered. The prose, as Peterson acknowledges, is professorial and concise rather than personal.
It should be noted as well that the techniques come almost exclusively from the classic European (mostly French) repertory. A glossary item on “stir-fry” is a rare exception.
Nonetheless, those who want to improve their skills at the stove by mastering classic techniques and preparations will find this a stimulating book.
Following is the recipe for poached chicken Peterson demonstrated in the test kitchen. It is adapted from the Basics section of “Essentials of Cooking.”
CHICKEN IN A POT (POULE AU POT)
Poaching is a great method for cooking chicken and other poultry because it’s light–no fat added–and it makes its own savory broth that can be served with the carved chicken. Root vegetables such as carrots, leeks and turnips poached along with the chicken make the dish a one-pot meal. Cut vegetables into relatively large pieces so they cook at the same rate as the chicken.
Bouquet garni is a bundle or packet of herbs that is added to broths, stews and soups to give them an herbal flavor. Trussing (optional) is accomplished by using string to tie legs and wings tightly to the body to provide more even cooking.
Kitchen notes and tips
Once the poaching liquid has come to a simmer, a 3 1/2-pound chicken cooks in about 35 to 45 minutes.
Start the chicken in cold broth or water. Starting in hot liquid will give you a cloudy broth.
Poach the chicken, uncovered, at a gentle simmer.
Pull the cooked chicken out of the poaching liquid by hooking a fork onto the trussing string and lifting the chicken out.
1. Place the trussed chicken in a pot just large enough to hold it but deep enough to completely cover it with liquid. Add aromatic vegetables, such as carrot sections and turnip wedges.
2. Cut rinsed leeks in half. Tie together with string so they don’t float up and interfere with skimming. Add them to the pot.
3. Put a bouquet garni in the pot and pour over enough broth or water to cover. Simmer gently, skimming off any fat or scum that floats to the top with a ladle, for 35 to 45 minutes.
4. Transfer the chicken to a serving dish. See if it’s done by inserting a skewer into the thickest part of the thigh, right where it joins the drumstick. If the liquid runs clear, not pink, it is ready.
5. Pull off and discard the skin.
6. Carve the chicken and serve with the vegetables in wide soup plates, ladling over the broth.
