When a pizza parlor bills itself as “Home of the Jumbo Slice,” there’s always the chance that its definition of “jumbo” will fall short of your definition of “jumbo.” But rest assured, Bacci Cafe & Pizzeria in Berwyn speaks fluent jumbo-ese. The jumbo wedge of thin pizza is about 1 foot long and 9 inches wide at the base–not quite the size of a professional clown shoe, but pretty close. That qualifies as “jumbo” in our lexicon.
It also qualifies as a jumbo bargain, because a slice (choice of cheese, pepperoni or sausage) and a 12-ounce soda will only set you back $2.09. This deal, along with the rest of the menu, also is available at Bacci’s two Chicago locations.
As for the pizza–it’s good, but not gourmet. This is a bonus, really; most things billed as “jumbo” aren’t expected to be good, just big. But Bacci’s thin pizza boasts a crust that bakes up fresh and soft, yet sturdy enough to hold lots of the kitchen’s tangy, slightly sweet marinara sauce and a respectable amount of mozzarella. The five or six pieces of sausage on our slice seemed a bit lonely on that wide plain of pie, but the ones that were there had a nice meaty texture and spicy flavor.
Pizza is the only item that gets jumbo billing, but all the entrees we tried were enormous. What’s more, pasta dinners include bread and margarine, and a small salad with a fresh assortment of vegetables.
A dinner of spaghetti ($4.25; mostaccioli also is available) is huge, its perfectly cooked pasta loaded down with the house marinara. We also ordered a side of meatballs ($2) and were glad we did: The well-cooked, plump globes of beef come nicely spiced with oregano and basil.
The baked lasagna ($5.50) tastes like something Nana would make–and the way it is heaped on, it’s the amount she would serve you too. Although not the prettiest dish, it tastes just fine: The kitchen staff layers large sheets of noodles with fresh ricotta and Romano cheeses and covers them with that nice marinara sauce. Meat sauce also can be ordered.
Bacci’s large lineup of sandwiches includes the cheesy beef ($3.85), which earns kudos with its shredded, juicy beef piled onto a small loaf of Italian bread and covered with–but not overpowered by–melted mozzarella.
Because of Lent, we felt compelled to order a perch dinner (three pieces, $5.35; two pieces $4.35). It isn’t as scintillating as the previous fare, but eating it won’t be a sacrifice either. Thick, fresh fillets of perch are deep-fried in a nicely seasoned breading and served with tartar sauce. Bread and french fries accompany it.
The panzerotti ($3 with cheese; 50 cents per additional ingredient), a baked pizza turnover that we ordered with mushrooms, proved disappointing. The soggy dough detracts from and fails to accommodate the generous amounts of cheese and sauce.
And we could live without the standard-issue appetizers we tried. The mozzarella sticks (6 for $2.40) are run of the mill, though ample; they benefit from the accompanying marinara dipping sauce. The garlic bread ($1.50)–plain loaves brushed with garlic and butter–is acceptable but unremarkable.
Dessert is another story. The tiramisu ($2.95), a real winner, mixes soft and spongy ladyfingers, rich mascarpone and just the right amount of liqueur. And, in keeping with Bacci’s attention to size, it provides plenty for two.
Beverage options include soft drinks (80 cents to $1) and coffee drinks ($2 to $3).
Bacci’s Cafe is clean and spacious. It also is so brightly lighted you’ll think you wandered into a police lineup; nobody minds if you look closely at the food in this joint. The counter service is attentive and amiable, and if the place isn’t too busy, a server will bring your meal to the table.
But we prefer takeout. You get so much food, it’s easier to spread out the goods on your dining room table. The food is well packaged, and is still hot when you get it there.
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Bacci’s Cafe & Pizzeria
(2 forks)
6920 W. Ogden Ave., Berwyn
708-788-1700
Hours: 10:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 10:30 a.m.-midnight Fri.-Sat.;
2-10 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: Not accepted
Web site: www.baccipizza.com
Noise rating: Conversation friendly
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
