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NORTHWEST

PAPPADEAUX SEAFOOD KITCHEN (3 forks)

798 W. Algonquin Rd., Arlington Heights

847-228-9551

The terrific seafood alone should ensure diners a fine time, but the noisy, nautical-meets-N’Awlins atmosphere takes the experience to a whole different level. Be prepared for long waits.

Recommended: Fried alligator, Oysters Pappadeaux; Blackened Opelousas.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $11-$21

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

HARRISON’S RESTAURANT AND BREWERY (4 forks)

15845 LaGrange Rd., Orland Park

708-226-0100

This vibrant brewpub pays as much attention to its food as it does to its hand-crafted beers. The menu has a definite Cajun bias, and steaks and salads are top-notch. There is a cigar room, patio dining and polished, congenial service.

Recommended: Jambalaya, filet mignon, bayou shrimp pasta, Key Largo lime pie.

Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout; free parking. CITY

EMPEROR’S CHOICE **

2238 S. Wentworth Ave.

312-225-8800

One of the stars of Chinatown. Seafood is the specialty, as a glance at the menu will confirm. For the adventurous, there is also an “acquired taste” menu with such exotica as pork bellies with preserved greens and winter serpent (rattlesnake) soup.

Recommended: Pot stickers, spicy softshell crab, sauteed shiitake mushrooms, lobster Peking-style, eight-treasure duck.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$19.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Discounted parking (with validation) at northeast corner of Cermak Road and Wentworth Avenue; wheelchair accessible.

HONG MIN **

221 W. Cermak Rd.

312-842-5026

This simple Chinatown mainstay is the embodiment of no-frills dining. But if you can do without table linens and stemware (and wine, for that matter, though you can bring your own), you will eat inexpensively and well. Dim sum served daily. (A second Hong Min at 8048 W. 11th St., Palos Hills, has the same menu, more space and a liquor license.)

Recommended: Hot and sour soup, curried chicken puffs.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$22

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 6 or more.

Other: BYOB; discounted parking available.

P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO (3 forks)

530 N. Wabash Ave.

312-828-9977

1819 Lake Cook Rd., Northbrook

847-509-8844

This Scottsdale, Ariz.-based chain sets out on an ambitious and contradictory course: To be upscale, yet price-conscious; sophisticated enough for foodies, but familiar enough for everyone else. The food is surprisingly good; a thorough wine list is a bonus.

Recommended: Chang’s Chicken, wonton chicken salad, honey shrimp, Dan Dan Noodles.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.95-$12.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted only for kitchen dining tables for parties of 6 to 12.

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible

PHOENIX **

2131 S. Archer Ave.

312-328-0848

Uncommonly pretty dining rooms with city views, a daily dim sum menu and an intriguing, well-executed menu make this arguably the best restaurant in Chinatown.

Recommended: Drunken crab, Buddha’s Delight, spicy jellyfish, pork shu mai.

Open: Dinner and dim sum Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for dinner only.

Other: Wheelchair accessible; discounted parking available.

SZECHWAN RESTAURANT *

625 N. Michigan Ave.

312-482-9898

The kitchen gives scant attention to run-of-the-mill, touristy dishes such as sweet and sour shrimp; the more adventurous menu items receive more respect from the chefs. Experiment fearlessly; even the designated spicy-hot dishes are on the tame side.

Recommended: Szechwan sesame chicken.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $8.50-$32.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

NORTH

CANTON EXPRESS (3 forks)

4761 W. Touhy Ave., Lincolnwood

847-982-1919

Don’t expect ambience at this unpretentious eatery. Do expect outstanding Asian food prepared by Kwai Wa Li, a former Hong Kong chef who also operates Eat First in Chicago.

Recommended: Pot stickers, scallops with chicken, Combination Delight, yu shan beef, Song Tong chicken.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $2.25-$10

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Reservations: Accepted

CHINOISERIE (4 forks)

509 4th St., Wilmette

847-256-0306

You’ll find excellence on a tiny scale in this seven-table nouvelle Chinese restaurant with Southeast Asian influences. The food is terrific; getting a table is the challenge.

Recommended: Spring roll, King crab crepes, yu shong chicken

Open: Dinner Tues.-Sun.

Entree prices: $10.95-$17.95

Credit cards: Not accepted

Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends.

Other: No smoking, BYOB.

SZECHWAN KINGDOM (3 forks)

545 Waukegan Rd., Northbrook

847-562-1368

A respite from the hubbub of Brookside Plaza, Szechwan Kingdom’s strengths include an experienced culinary staff and very attractive dining rooms.

Recommended: Taiwan chicken roll, chicken with orange peel, Hunan mixed vegetables, lake Tungting shrimp.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended for parties of 5 or more.

Other: Wheelchair accessible

WINDOWS OF CUISINE (3 forks)

1636 Old Deerfield Rd., Highland Park

847-831-3155

For ably presented, vigorously seasoned Chinese food, Windows of Cuisine is one of the best bets on the North Shore.

Recommended: Money bag, shrimp shu mia, calamari with ginger sauce, Peking duck salad.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Mon., lunch Mon., Wed.-Fri.

Entree prices: $8.50-$23.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible

WEST

HOUSE OF EMPEROR

(4 forks)

1212 S. Naper Blvd., Naperville

630-983-8284

This suburban restaurant serves a variety of dishes, especially seafood, with a breadth, sophistication and attention to service that many Chinatown establishments lack.

Recommended: Stuffed crab claws, Emperor’s Special, Peking pork chop.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7-$24

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout available.

NORTHWEST

FORTUNE KOOKIE (3 forks)

570 N. Smith St., Palatine

847-776-7770

With a fortune cookie, it’s what inside that counts. This is true of Fortune Kookie, where an unassuming exterior masks a menu of regional Chinese and Thai dishes with an emphasis on healthy preparation.

Recommended: Seafood soup, chow fun, pot stickers, orange beef.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $7-$16

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Carryout available

WONTON GOURMET (2 forks)

2310 S. Elmhurst Rd., Mt. Prospect

847-427-1183

The wontons and dumplings are handmade and stuffed with delicate ingredients; the noodles are fresh (some made on site); and the greens are deep emerald. And while meals can be fast-paced, it is also a good place to drop in for a soul-warming bowl of noodles for dinner or late supper.

Recommended: Wontons, noodle soups, shrimp dumplings, gan chow beef fun, Singapore noodles.

Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $3.50-$9

Credit cards: Not accepted

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

CUBAN

CITY

AMBASSADOR CAFFE

(3 forks)

3605 N. Ashland Ave.

773-404-8770

Taking a seat at one of the eight tables in this unassuming storefront guarantees a hearty serving of satisfying Cuban home cooking.

Recommended: Yuca con mojo, El Famoso sandwich, Valencian paella, rueda de surrullo.

Open: Dinner, lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$14.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: BYOB; no smoking.

WEST

COPA CUBANA (4 forks)

224 S. Main St., Naperville

630-983-2672

A converted laundromat has become a stylish storefront where chef Michael Munoz creates captivating Cuban cuisine. His dishes are traditional, distinguished more by textures and intense aromas than by heat; spice is a subtle layer rather than a dominant force.

Recommended: Congri, lobster paella, empanadas de langosta, ropa vieja.

Open: Dinner, lunch Tues.-Sun.

Entree prices: $10.25-$21.95

Credit cards: A, V, M, DS, DC

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

ECLECTIC

CITY

COAST **

2145 N. Damen Ave.

773-782-9700

This beach-themed Bucktown newcomer features “coastal cuisine,” a wide-open category that embraces everything from New England clam chowder to Mediterranean mussels. Unbounded as the menu is, most of what the kitchen produces is pretty good.

Recommended: Scallop “nachos,” spicy crab salad, blackened catfish, steak with guajillo barbecue sauce, chocolate polenta cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$19

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends.

Noise: Bring earplugs.

Other: Valet parking available; wheelchair accessible.

ECHO ***

1856 W. North Ave.

773-395-3474

This grazer’s paradise in Bucktown exclusively features small plates – items that are smaller than entrees yet larger and more complex than appetizers. Thus, the menu is divided simply into “hot” and “cold” categories. Dirk Flanigan’s cooking incorporates influences from around the globe and the neighborhood; some of his dishes are themselves “echoes” of his earlier work at the late Madam B. Prices are reasonable, so that a do-it-yourself degustation need not be cost-prohibitive.

Recommended: Lobster ceviche, tuna trio, beef salad, sea scallops, Mediterranean mussels.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Prices: $6-$12

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking available Wed.-Sat.

TECHNICOLOR KITCHEN **

3210 N. Lincoln Ave.

773-665-2111

Beneath the `60s-flashback decor and kitchen-sink-eclectic menu lies a serious restaurant whose unconventional flavor juxtapositions work surprisingly well. Chef Gil Langlois has a fine sense of balance and restraint that results in dishes that taste better than the menu makes them sound.

Recommended: Chile-rubbed micro filet, blackened alligator wontons, poached salmon, vegetable Wellington, chocolate cookie-dough eggroll.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $14-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking available weekends; wheelchair accessible.

TILLI’S *

1952 N. Halsted St.

773-325-0044

The menu is global in its reach, but this North Side neighborhood spot couldn’t be more down to earth. The atmosphere and food are unpretentious and simple dishes are generally handled well. Spice-happy diners will be pleased with several menu items.

Recommended: Steamed mussels, flatbread pizza, grilled salmon, Caribbean skirt steak, Big @ !!! Burger.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$17.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking available.

SOUTH

THE COURTYARD BISTRO (3 forks)

21 S. White St., Frankfort

815-464-1404

Italian, French and Southwestern influences meld in this sophisticated and innovative restaurant. Not everything is wonderful, but the place is so ambitious that glitches are forgivable.

Recommended: Onion tart, artichoke ravioli, beef tenderloin

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $13.95-$18.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

LAVERY’S PUB (2 forks)

6657 South St., Tinley Park

708-633-8240

The menu at this hip-casual south suburban spot has Italian, American and French

influences. Service is especially congenial.

Recommended: Appetizer combo, petite prime rib/shrimp de jonghe combo, pork tenderloin Normandy.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8.95-$19.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends.

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair access; private parties; carryout; catering.

ORBIE’S INTERNATIONAL CAFE (2 forks)

525 Torrence Ave., Calumet City

708-891-3900

Take a gastronomic trip around the world via Orbie’s vast menu that includes selections from the cuisines of the Caribbean, Europe, Asia and the American South.

Recommended: Hot-link sausage with secret-recipe sauce, crab cakes Victoria, linguine with mussels, peach cobbler.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12-$25

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout; catering.

FONDUE

THE MELTING POT (3 forks)

17W633 Roosevelt Rd., Oakbrook Terrace

630-495-5778

Fondue dining is flourishing here in an intimate atmosphere.

Recommended: Kirschwasser cheese fondue, Classic fondue dinner for two, chocolate fondue.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Reservations: Recommended on weekends.

Other: Private parties

FRENCH

CITY

AMBRIA ****

2300 N. Lincoln Park West

773-472-5959

From its matter-of-factly efficient staff to its modest-to-a-fault menu, Ambria has established and maintained the definition of fine-dining in Chicago. The five-course petite degustation ($55) is generally a good bet, and the seven-course grand degustation ($75) is better still. Matching wines to tasting menus can be daunting, but sommelier Bob Bansberg is a treasure.

Recommended: Sesame-crusted salmon with lemongrass-tomato water, medallions of venison with blackberry sauce, lamb loin with rosemary infusion, chocolate euphoria.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $28-$35

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: No smoking in dining room; jacket required, no denim permitted; valet parking available.

AUBRIOT ***

1962 N. Halsted St.

773-281-4211

Eric Aubriot has made a name for himself with this fine Halsted Street restaurant. His French cooking is light but packed with flavor, and he doesn’t mind challenging diners with bold combinations. Unfussily appointed linen-topped tables and exceedingly attentive service – overseen by Stephanie Aubriot, Eric’s wife – contribute to a formal and friendly atmosphere.

Recommended: Fricassee of frog legs and veal kidneys, foie gras with chocolate sauce, sauteed monkfish, roasted rabbit loin, Cointreau souffle, warm chocolate cake.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $14-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking available.

BISTROT MARGOT ***

1437 N. Wells St.

312-587-3660

Joe Doppes, who also owns Francesca on Taylor, sticks to his beloved French cooking at this Old Town bistro, and the passion is evident in every bite. The Art Nouveau decor is authentically French, right down to the overcrowded dining room.

Recommended: Duo of pats, seafood terrine, coq au vin, grilled salmon, beef Wellington, apple tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $11.95-$19.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Valet parking available; smoking in bar only.

BISTROT ZINC ***

3443 N. Southport Ave.

773-281-3443

1131 N. State St.

312-337-1131

Everything, from the painstaking decor (including an imported vintage zinc bar) to the precise bistro cooking, rings of authenticity. Brunch, offered Saturdays and Sundays, is a particularly pleasant feature.

Recommended: Bouillabaisse, dessert crepes, creme brulee.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12.95-$22

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted (for bistro only)

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking available.

BISTRO ULTRA (3 forks)

2239 N. Clybourn Ave.

773-529-3300

This chic but comfortable bistro offers all the basic dishes, plus makes intriguing forays into fusion. Looking for privacy? There’s a curtained alcove where small groups can convene. Wine fans will relish the wide variety of interesting choices by the glass.

Recommended: Bistro salad, mushroom pate, pork tenerloin piccata, pasta with escargot and spinach, potato gratin, sauteed walleye pike.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9-$18.

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V.

Reservations: Recommended on weekends.

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

BRASSERIE JO ***

59 W. Hubbard St.

312-595-0800

This festive Alsatian brasserie is the brainchild of Jean Joho, chef/proprietor of the four-star Everest. The 220-seat space features soaring ceilings, oversized murals, wide-open sightlines and a zinc-topped bar (an area you’ll get very familiar with if you arrive sans reservations). More importantly, it features the cooking of Joho at his unintimidating and affordable best.

Recommended: Escargots a l’Alsacienne, steak tartare, onion tart Uncle Hansi, choucroute, coq au vin, bread pudding.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $8.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking available.

CHEZ JOEL ***

1119 W. Taylor St.

312-226-6479

A straightforward French bistro by Joel Kazouini (who also owns Clark Street Bistro), Chez Joel impresses on every level. Painstakingly presented dishes taste as good as they look, service is low-key and precise and the sun-dappled dining room is pretty and comfortable.

Recommended: Leek tart, brandade, bouillabaisse, steak au poivre, Night and Day cake, apple tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $11.95-$17.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking available

CYRANO’S BISTROT & WINE BAR **

546 N. Wells St.

312-467-0546

The estimable Didier Durand is the chef and owner of this romantic bistro, ably assisted by his wife, Jamie, who runs the front room and manages an off-the-beaten-path wine list that includes, fittingly, wines from Bergerac.

Recommended: Onion tart, bouillabaisse, apple tart.

Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $10.95-$19.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking

THE DINING ROOM ****

Ritz-Carlton Hotel

160 E. Pearson St.

312-266-1000

Everything about this opulent room seems to announce “you expect the best, and we are prepared,” and the restaurant indeed delivers, from Sarah Stegner’s outstanding French and American cooking to exemplary service. No other restaurant in Chicago offers so elaborate a cheese presentation. The wine list is heavy with big names and big vintages, and goes deeper than most budgets dare follow.

Recommended: Foie gras with balsamic syrup, sauteed sea bass, rack of lamb, cheese course, Grand Marnier souffle.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $29-$38

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Hushed

Other: Valet parking available; wheelchair accessible.

ENTRE NOUS ***

200 N. Columbus Drive

312-565-7997

On the lobby level of the Fairmont Hotel is this sedate and elegant dining room, where a straightforward, French-influenced menu benefits from expert execution, and extraordinary creature comforts make you feel pampered.

Recommended: Lobster bisque, rack of lamb, white chocolate mousse cake.

Open: Dinner Tues.-Sat.

Entree prices: $20-$37

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking available

EVEREST ****

440 S. LaSalle St.

312-663-8920

More so than any restaurant in Chicago, Everest strives to dazzle you before the meal begins. The private valet parking area, the series of elevator rides, the opulent decor, the grand view, the warm and knowing service – yet all of this is just so much backdrop to the grand creations of master chef Jean Joho, whose Alsatian origins lead him to compose culinary symphonies from the humblest ingredients. While dining at Everest is an education, it isn’t final-exam time at every turn; servers keep things approachable and unintimidating. A superlative wine list matches the superlative dining experience.

Recommended: Venison with huckleberries, fantasy of chocolate.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $29-$36

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Hushed

Other: Complimentary valet parking; pre-theater dinner ($44 for three courses) available

KIKI’S BISTRO ***

900 N. Franklin St.

312-335-5454

Country-French decor meets an urban-contemporary kitchen in this attractive bistro owned by George Cuisance.

Recommended: Rabbit sausage, fricassee of mushrooms and escargots, steak pommes frites, grilled grouper, calf liver, creme brulee.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14-$18.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Free valet parking; wheelchair accessible.

LA PETITE FOLIE **

1504 E. 55th St.

773-493-1394

An unpretentious but refined Hyde Park restaurant near the University of Chicago campus, La Petite Folie excels at unfussily presented French food that lets the simple, pure flavors shine through. The pristine dining room, with white walls and thick floral-pattern carpeting, is a lovely and quiet setting; youthful servers are poised and surprisingly polished.

Recommended: Lime-cured salmon, sea scallops with citrus sauce, snapper with zucchini scales, sole-salmon roulades, phyllo-wrapped lamb loin.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $15-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking in dining room.

LA SARDINE **

111 N. Carpenter St.

312-421-2800

Jean-Claude Poilevey’s “other” restaurant (he also owns Le Bouchon in Bucktown) is this West-of-Loop bistro across from Oprah Winfrey’s Harpo Studios. The pretty brick-and-wood interior is short on space (perhaps that explains the name) but long on comforting French classics, executed handily by chef David Burns. The three-course, $12.50 lunch is a delightful bargain.

Recommended: Leek-bacon tart, salade Gascone, sweetbreads, bouillabaisse Jean-Claude, Grand Marnier souffle.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13.50-$18.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking available

LE BOUCHON **

1958 N. Damen Ave.

773-862-6600

Look up the word bistro in the dictionary, and there ought to be a picture of Le Bouchon beside it. Simple, hearty food, reasonably priced, in a communal atmosphere that makes newcomers feel welcome.

Recommended: Onion tart, salade Lyonnaise, steak with fries, chocolate marquis, apple tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $11-$14.75

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Adjacent parking lot; wheelchair accessible

LES NOMADES ***

222 E. Ontario St.

312-649-9010

From its jacket-and-tie dress code to its intolerance of loud conversation, Les Nomades adheres to a private-club sensibility – which this elegant, two-story restaurant once was – though under owners Roland and Mary Beth Liccioni (ex-Le Francais), things have loosened up somewhat. The refined atmosphere is mirrored by the cuisine, characterized by harmonious flavors and uncommon ingredients.

Recommended: Foie gras duo, lobster ravioli, grilled sea bass, flourless chocolate cake

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $24-$27

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended for dinner

Noise: Hushed

Other: Valet parking available; jacket required; no smoking

MARCHE **

833 W. Randolph St.

312-226-8399

Most everything is on a grand scale here – the soaring ceilings, the over-the-top theatrical decor, the noise level and the stylishly turned-out see-and-be-seen crowd. Marche’s kitchen is very good to excellent nearly all the time, turning out fine bistro classics with contemporary twists.

Recommended: Steak tartare, peppercorn-crusted ostrich, roasted chicken, duet of duck

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $16-$34

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking available.

MON AMI GABI ***

2300 Lincoln Park West

773-348-8886

The former Un Grand Cafe has been reworked top to bottom to become a classic French bistro. The interior is light-filled and decorated with oversized wine bottles and stuffed game birds; the menu, by Claude Gaty, includes plenty of satisfying choices, including four versions of steak frites and a plat du jour selection that includes excellent bouillabaise (Thursdays) and rack of lamb (Saturdays).

Recommended: Coquilles Gabi, vegetable terrine, steak frites, trout grenobloise, boeuf bourguignonne, profiteroles.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12.95-$27.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking available.

THE PUMP ROOM *

Omni Ambassador East Hotel

1301 N. State Pkwy.

312-266-0360

The good news is that chef Martial Noguier is very good. The bad news is that despite the good food and the gorgeous, seven-figure makeover, the Pump Room can be a maddening place to dine because service can be so poor – although recent staff changes have improved things considerably.

Recommended: Sweetbreads, smoked-salmon terrine, Gold Coast salad, duck breast over couscous.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $21-$34.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking available; jackets required at dinner.

SAVARIN ***

713 N. Wells St.

312-255-9520

This elegant French dining room features the cuisine of John Hogan, one of the best French chefs in the city. Though no bistro, Savarin’s menu includes several bistro classics, all impeccably executed, and a plat du jour selection (don’t miss Dover sole on Fridays).

Recommended: Lentil timbale, crab mousse with smoked sturgeon, duck prosciutto salad, brioche-crusted halibut, sauteed rabbit, tart tatin, chocolate marquise.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $14.95-$22.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Valet parking available; wheelchair accessible.

YOSHI’S CAFE ***

3257 N. Halsted St.

773-248-6160

This casual, neighborhood spot by owner Yoshi Katsumura still betrays its fine-dining past. You don’t have to dress up and won’t spend a fortune, but you’ll still get white-tablecloth tables, very good service and outstanding, Asian-inflected French cuisine.

Recommended: Squid with ponzu, panko-breaded catfish, grilled tofu, cr(degrees)me brulee

Open: Dinner Tues.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $7-$21

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Other: Wheelchair accessible (ramp at rear entrance); valet parking.