The cover of “Simply Tuscan” is appropriately simple. A small photo of a loaf of bread and a bowl of soup centers on a ivory background that resembles pieces of antique Italian letters, with script so faint you can’t read it. The title line looks as if it were typed on an ancient typewriter with worn keys.
Certainly not flashy, but very appealing.
The same is true of the recipes within. Author Pino Luongo has packed “Simply Tuscan” (Doubleday, $35) with an array of rustic Italian dishes geared to the seasons. He wants us to learn about his native region: “I make no bones about it,” he writes. “I’m here to convert you to Tuscanism . . .”
And like any good missionary, he does it with small, everyday things. Roasted root vegetables. Lemon mint sorbet. Grilled pork ribs. Tuscan beef and pepper stew.
The recipes flow through spring, summer, fall and winter, in 20 menus from Easter lunch to Thanksgiving and Christmas feasts. But Luongo is careful to point out he doesn’t want readers to think of his menus as a rigid guide: “You would actually be doing me a great disservice by following the book to the letter. Everything that’s here is meant to be adapted freely, in the simplest way possible, by you in your home.”
If your home doesn’t happen to be nestled in the hills of Tuscany, Luongo’s recipes will be a tasty substitute. But you may have to search for some of the ingredients required by restaurateur Luongo (he owns Coco Pazzo in Chicago and New York and other restaurants in Denver, Philadelphia and Miami). Fava beans, farro, cardoons, chestnut preserves and black cabbage are not ordinary supermarket fare.
But plenty of other recipes among the 130 in the book use everyday foods. Brussels sprouts team with oranges. A warm capon breast tops spinach mashed potatoes. Farfalle pasta mixes with walnuts, cinnamon and lemon zest. And a warm apple tart gets turned upside down. For more intrepid cooks, Luongo includes ricotta ravioli with osso buco gremolata (a sauce of veal, citrus and parsley) and a turkey galantina (galantine).
Directions in the recipes are clear and helpful. We tested three of them in the Tribune test kitchen and found the flavors straightforward and fine. The rostinciana, or Florentine-style grilled pork ribs, were seasoned only with garlic and rosemary but were outstanding. Another grilled dish, a potato and fennel salad, matched the smoky vegetables with a pungent sauce of mayonnaise, garlic, lemon and green onions. The potato and fennel were slightly undercooked.
Less successful was an intriguing tagliatelle souffle, rich in Parmesan and Emmenthaler cheeses. The flavor of the pasta was better than a classic macaroni and cheese, but the texture was distinctly unpleasant. Somehow, though we followed the directions, the sauce curdled.
Despite the few missteps, Luongo’s infectious stories and lineup of recipes will bring us back to the book again and again–wishing we were Tuscan too.
GRILLED POTATO AND FENNEL SALAD
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 18 minutes
Yield: 12 servings
From “Simply Tuscan,” by Pino Luongo. This easy recipe is perfect for a buffet table. You can serve the sauce on the side as a dip for the vegetables if you like.
1 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 clove garlic, minced
2 green onions, trimmed, sliced thin
Salt, freshly ground pepper to taste
4 Idaho potatoes, peeled, sliced 1/4-inch thick, brushed with extra-virgin olive oil
2 fennel bulbs, stalks and bottom trimmed off, rinsed, quartered, sliced 1/4-inch thick, brushed with extra-virgin olive oil
1. In a bowl, whisk the mayonnaise together with the lemon juice, garlic, green onions and salt and pepper. If it’s thicker than heavy cream, thin it with a little water.
2. Grill the potato slices on a covered grill until they’re brown and tender, 2 or 3 minutes per side. Grill the fennel slices for 2 minutes per side, uncovered. Arrange the potato and fennel slices in an alternating pattern on a large platter. Drizzle the sauce over them.
Test kitchen note: We found the vegetables can take up to 10 minutes per side to cook through on a grill.
Nutrition information per serving (calculated by the Tribune):
Calories ………… 190 Fat ……….. 15 g Saturated fat .. 2.2 g
% calories from fat .. 68 Cholesterol .. 11 mg Sodium …….. 115 mg
Carbohydrates …… 14 g Protein …… 1.6 g Fiber ………. 1.5 g
ROSTINCIANA (GRILLED PORK RIBS, FLORENTINE-STYLE)
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
These savory, not sweet, ribs are served with a tangy salad. From “Simply Tuscan,” by Pino Luongo.
6 racks baby pork ribs
6 cloves garlic, stem ends removed
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
6 sprigs fresh rosemary, chopped
4 teaspoons red wine vinegar
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium head frisee, well-rinsed and dried
1 cucumber, peeled and cut into 1/8-inch thick rounds
1 pound ripe cherry tomatoes, halved
1. Rub the ribs with the cut side of the garlic cloves and brush with generous amounts of salt and pepper. Sprinkle all over with the rosemary. Grill over medium-hot coals for 8 to 10 minutes per side, until fully crisp. Cut the racks into double-rib sections.
2. Dissolve 1/2 teaspoon of salt in the vinegar by whisking them together in a large salad bowl. Drizzle in the olive oil while whisking. Add the frisee, cucumber and tomatoes, and toss well. Arrange the salad on a serving platter with the ribs on top.
Nutrition information per serving (calculated by the Tribune, based on 6 pounds ribs):
Calories ………… 915 Fat ………… 75 g Saturated fat .. 25 g
% calories from fat .. 75 Cholesterol .. 245 mg Sodium ……. 415 mg
Carbohydrates ……. 6 g Protein …….. 52 g Fiber ……… 1.7 g
