As its name indicates, The 5 Boroughs Delicatessen is inspired by New York, the patron city of delis. The menu reflects it and, whether intentional or not, the atmosphere at lunch hour does too–the narrow space is crowded and chaotic, obviously filling a need in a neighborhood dense with touristy outposts that locals want no part of.
Contributing to the mayhem is a lack of signage. The deli has a place telling you where to pay (the cash register) and where to complain (that one directs you out the door), but it’s not clear where you order. (Answer: At the station of choice: hot sandwiches or cold sandwiches.)
Many folks sidestep the chaos and call ahead for takeout, which proved the better experience for us. Delivery also is an option. If you’re intent on eating in, tables for two and a couple for four are squeezed along the wall–emphasis on “squeezed.” On the plus side, this is a very clean and attractive space. The young staff handles the noontime melee with aplomb, and their refusal to get nettled transfers to the customer. They fill orders quickly too.
If 5 Boroughs won’t fulfill the exacting expectations of diehard New York deli aficionados, it’s got a lot of good things going for it, especially in the high quality of its meats and cheeses.
Sandwiches constitute most of the entrees (all $5.75 plus tax, unless you order New York size–New York priced at $8.75).
Our favorite was the pastrami with Swiss on rye. The meat was mostly lean with a bit of fat to heighten the flavor, just enough mustard for tang and extra-fresh, good-quality bread. Of the design-it-yourself sandwiches (choose from about 20 meats and eight cheeses) we sampled, our favorite was inspired by Little Italy, a hearty Genoa salami/provolone on a hero, with ample amounts of salami and cheese tucked inside the fresh bread. We were disappointed with the tomatoes, which were far too pale for the harvest month of September.
Another winner was the roast beef/pepperjack cheese on pumpernickel, though the bread could have been a bit fresher. The maple-glazed roast turkey on a kaiser roll tasted fine, but the meat was sliced so thin that its flavor didn’t come through. We found a similar slicing problem with the hot, richly flavored corned beef. It was shredded to smithereens.
The kitchen could be bolder with seasonings. Our coleslaw ($2.49 per pound) was very bland, as was the Italian sub (more on that later). The macaroni salad ($1.39 per pound) was better, with al dente pasta, bell pepper and a tangy coating of mayo, salt and pepper. The ultra-fresh three-bean salad ($2.65 per pound)–red beans, green beans and chickpeas–teams the beans in a light dressing of oil and vinegar.
Maybe ordering an Italian sub in a Jewish-style deli isn’t fair. But it was on the menu, so we bit. What we bit into was a decent sandwich that lacked the fever pitch of oil and spices that characterize a true sub. A large Italian roll plays host to mozzarella, cold cuts, lots of fresh onions, and more of those pale tomatoes.
Ordering matzo ball soup ($2.25 pint; $3.95 quart) is a requirement, though, and 5 Boroughs makes a respectable version. A rotund and tender matzo ball serves as a nice foil for the clear, rich soup with chunks of chicken breast, carrot and celery. Like that Italian sub, it needed some seasoning; we loaded on the salt till we got the flavor we needed.
For dessert, the noodle kugel ($2.65 per pound) supplies a comforting finale (no surprise, the recipe is from owner Bruce Kalman’s grandmother), with its spicy-sweet blend of noodles, apples, raisins and cinnamon.
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The 5 Boroughs Delicatessen
(2 forks)
738 N. Wells St.
312-915-0188
Hours: 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Mon.-Sat.
Credit cards: A,M,V,
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
