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Snacking is not an all-junk proposition. In fact, daily snacking can help you improve sports and workout performance, control weight and even reduce stress.

And you thought those milk and cookies were nothing but trouble.

“I serve myself a non-fat milk over ice in a stemmed glass with three of those mini-cookies,” says Judith Stern, a leading obesity researcher at the University of California-Davis. “It makes my snack fun. I tell people to enjoy their snacks, to savor them.”

Stern is among a majority of nutritionists who now see the positive side of snacking. The world’s elite athletes are increasingly told to eat smaller, more frequent meals–five to six per day–for optimal energy. Evidence is building that a similar strategy will work similar wonders for people watching their weight.

“I work with a number of clients who, after trying one too many diets, are now willing to put in the time it takes to drop the pounds and keep them off,” says Monique Ryan, a dietitian who operates the Personal Nutrition Designs counseling service in Evanston. “The first step is listening to your own hunger, eating when you are hungry. It’s called `intuitive eating’ and snacks play an important role.”

For instance, Ryan says she works with many clients (including members of the world-class Saturn bicycling team and the Chicago Fire professional soccer team) who might think they don’t have time to eat during busy days. So they suppress their hunger and feel a drain on energy because of it. The physiological effect is caused by depletion of glycogen, the body’s main fuel or blood sugar stored in the liver and muscles. Eating more frequently helps smooth out blood sugar levels.

“Glycogen liver stores last about three to five hours at most,” says Ryan, who is author of the recent book “Complete Guide to Sports Nutrition” (Velo Press, $16.95). “You need to eat some food every few hours to maintain your best energy.”

That goes for non-breakfast eaters too. Skipping the morning meal can translate to 12 hours or more without food. The body still burns calories during sleep, and Ryan says glycogen stores in the liver are practically zero by wakeup time. For people who don’t like to eat breakfast, she recommends starting with a small “morning snack” when you rise, then eating another meal or snack at about 9 to 10 a.m. This routine helps people become breakfast eaters and feel more energetic during the morning.

Another problem with going long stretches without food is people tend to overeat once they do sit down to the table. New research shows the body can convert only about 800 calories into energy at any one sitting; any calories beyond this number are destined to become fat cells.

Of course, eating too much throughout the day is a common problem. No discussion with a nutritionist is complete without at least one reference to portion sizes, and for good reason.

“If you have trouble controlling what you eat once you get started, then snacking can be a major blow to your weight-control agenda,” says Stern. “My advice is to plan how much you are going to eat before the snack.”

Some examples that Stern incorporates herself:

– When you snack on a typical bag of trail mix, give half of it away or throw it in the garbage rather than eat what amounts to three or more servings.

– If you buy one of those mini deep-dish pizzas at an airport or between errand stops, throw half of it away or share it with someone. Same goes for jumbo muffins or oversized bags of popcorn.

“The idea is to eat a reasonable amount of calories and decide before you start eating,” says Stern. “It sounds corny, but I don’t see it as wasting money but saving your waistline.”

Stern says a typical woman needs about 1,800 calories a day to maintain her current body weight. Men (who generally weigh more) need closer to 2,200 calories. The number increases for anyone who is physically active. For the 1,800-calorie eater, the day’s main meal should be about 600 to 800 calories, with breakfast and the other meal at about 300 to 400 calories. Then there is room for two snacks (mid-morning and mid-afternoon) at about 150 to 200 calories each.

What Stern discourages is eating snacks or meals without taking the time to enjoy it. Eating on the run should be the exception in your life, not the routine.

“A meal should take at least 10 minutes,” says Stern. “You want to slow down enough to relax and energize. For snacks, I recommend giving yourself three to five minutes to enjoy the food. Rather than `snarf’ down an apple, cut it into wedges or slices. If you want a piece of chocolate, eat it slowly.”

There is new thinking about portion size for snacks and meals. It’s not always a matter of cutting back if your food choice is fruit, vegetables or grains. Barbara Rolls, a Penn State University researcher, has been conducting a number of studies that shows not all calories are created equal.

“We’ve seen repeatedly in our studies that people eat about the same amount of food each day and, if they consume less than they are used to, they feel hungry,” says Rolls, whose book “Volumetrics” (Quill, $13) will be out in paperback next month. “Fat can make food taste good but it doesn’t necessarily make you feel full. Eating the portion size or volume of food that you usually do is the key to feeling satisfied.”

But Rolls says to skip the refined flours and sugars in processed foods and opt for low-calorie foods with higher “volume” and water content, such as broth-based soups, fruits, veggies and foods puffed up with air. She urges people to select foods that have a low calories-to-ounce ratio. For example, 100 calories of raisins (dried grapes) will fill only one-quarter cup, while 100 calories of fresh, whole grapes fill 1 2/3 cups and will leave you more satisfied. Rolls’ point is not to stop eating nuts, low-fat cheese, dried fruit or even chocolate at snack time, but to understand that it is typical that a person will eat more raisins–and ring up more calories–before the stomach signals the brain it is full, while two cups of grapes will fill up most people.

“In any case, you still want to watch how many calories are in your snacks,” says Stern. “Snacks can enhance your daily diet or be a detriment. It’s your choice.”

STRATEGIES TO PROMOTE HEALTHY SNACKING

Snacks can be healthful for anyone’s lifestyle. Here is a look at snacking strategies for three common situations:

Athletes/active people: These people need more calories, especially carbohydrates. Snacks or mini-meals are critical to getting enough “fuel” for workouts and muscle recovery. Good snacks include a bagel with peanut butter, a half sandwich, low-fat cheese and fruit, yogurt with fruit or fruit juice, says Monique Ryan, an Evanston-based sports nutritionist. Nuts are an especially good snack for active people.

Weight control: Select snack foods high in fiber to fill you up between meals–and help avoid junk foods. Ryan says fruit should be a snacking staple; apples, grapes and, surprise, bananas, are all high-fiber fruits. Add some peanut butter to your apple for flavor and satiety. Low-fat cottage cheese teams up similarly with fruit. Skip snack foods such as bagels and muffins, which tend to be high in refined flour and calories.

University of California-Davis nutritionist Judith Stern isn’t about to label chocolate as off-limits. Stern refers to chocolate as an “honorary vitamin” because research shows it has plant-food properties that can help protect against heart disease and some cancers. One ounce of dark chocolate daily is optimal, she says. Best of all, you don’t feel deprived.

Overworked: Look for “grab-and-go” foods, says Ryan. She recommends pre-cut vegetables for harried clients, along with such standbys as low-fat yogurt and fruit. Packing lunch and snacks the night before is a smart move.