It has been a long time since the ancient grain of barley got any respect. It is, in its unassuming and small-puff way, the dumpling of the whole-grain world. All comfort and no pretense.
And yet, ever since Roman Emperor Augustus (63 B.C. to A.D. 14) threatened his soldiers against cowardice–every 10th coward would be punished with death, the rest would be given barley for food–the humble grain has never quite been glamorous.
It had been revered, after all, as a principal grain since the Stone Age. The ancient Egyptians and Hebrews judged the value of a field based on how much barley could be sown there. According to Pliny, Athenian gladiators loved it so much they became known as the “barley-eaters.”
The Chinese considered it one of their five sacred cultivated plants as far back as 2800 B.C. And Vedic literature, writes Waverley Root, calls barley and rice the “two immortal sons of heaven.”
The refinement of wheat production did no favors to barley, because wheat flour produces a finer leavened bread, lighter and more nutritious, which irrevocably became the staple of the wealthy. Barley was left to cattle, brewers and the poor, who retained it as their chief grain, at least in Europe, until late in the 16th Century.
Perhaps this is why I have come to love barley so much when the year slides into hibernation. Nothing suits my cold-weather craving for peasant comfort more than a hearty bowl of mushroom barley soup.
Those puffy grains, which pop between the teeth like tiny firm pillows, simmer and simmer until they give their gluten back, thickening the pot. It is as if their delicate liquid starch has a special talent for sealing fall flavors in, capturing the sweetness of root vegetables and the woodsy essence of dried mushrooms, coaxed back to life by restorative broth.
New York chef Daniel Boulud, in his 1999 “Cafe Boulud Cookbook,” has a recipe for just such a wild mushroom barley soup that is a perfect specimen of heartiness refined.
My barley fascination does not stop at soup. I re-created a barley risotto I first tasted at London Grill last winter, where chef Michael McNally topped it with a clever osso buco of pork. Pearled barley, the most common form that has been hulled and polished, will behave almost exactly like risotto rice. When browned in olive oil and sauteed onions in the pot, then slowly fed warm broth as the wooden spoon constantly stirs, it becomes creamy and rich. Slightly nuttier in flavor, it is a fine variation on the classic, a perfect pedestal for any stewed meat.
WILD MUSHROOM AND BARLEY SOUP
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Standing time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour, 35 minutes
Yield: 10 servings
2 ounces assorted dried mushrooms, such as morel, porcini, shiitake, black trumpet and chanterelles
2 cups warm water
3 tablespoons unsalted butter or olive oil
1 cup pearled barley
1 rib celery, diced
1 leek, white part only, split lengthwise, rinsed, sliced
1 onion, diced
1 carrot, peeled, diced
1 turnip, peeled, diced
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Salt
6 sage leaves, finely chopped, stems reserved for herb sachet
3/4 pound fresh mushrooms, cleaned, quartered
3 1/2 quarts low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth
Herb sachet, see note
Freshly ground white pepper
1. Soak dried mushrooms in bowl with 2 cups hot water. Let stand at least 30 minutes. Carefully rinse off any remaining grit from mushrooms. Discard soaking water. Wrap mushrooms in paper towel and gently squeeze out excess water.
2. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter or oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add barley; cook, stirring regularly, until grains are fragrant and lightly colored, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
3. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter or oil in stockpot or large casserole over medium heat. Add celery, leek, onion, carrot, turnip and garlic. Season with salt; cook, stirring, until vegetables soften but do not color, 10 minutes. Add sage leaves and fresh and rehydrated mushrooms; season with salt. Cook just until mushrooms release their moisture. Stir in 3 quarts of the broth; add herb sachet and barley. Heat to boil; reduce heat to simmer. Cook until barley is tender, about 1 hour, 10 minutes. If soup isn’t soupy enough, heat remaining 2 cups broth to boil; stir into pot. Season to taste.
Note: For herb sachet, wrap the following in cheesecloth and tie closed with kitchen string: sage stems, 4 sprigs Italian parsley, 2 sprigs thyme, 1 bay leaf, 1/4 teaspoon coriander seeds, 1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds and 1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 180 Fat ………… 6 g Saturated fat … 2.2 g
% calories from fat .. 25 Cholesterol … 9 mg Sodium ……. 1,035 mg
Carbohydrates …… 29 g Protein …….. 8 g Fiber …………. 6 g
GREEN BARLEY AND KALE GRATIN
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour, 20 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
The following recipe is adapted from “Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone,” by Deborah Madison.
2/3 cup pearl barley, rinsed
1 quart boiling water
1/2 teaspoon salt plus more to taste
1 large bunch kale, about 1 1/4 pounds, stems removed
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 1/2 cups milk or vegetable broth
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg
Freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup grated Gruyere or provolone
1. Add barley and salt to 1 quart boiling water in a saucepan; reduce heat. Simmer, uncovered, until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain. Cook kale in skillet of boiling salted water until tender, about 6-10 minutes. Drain, reserving 1/4 cup cooking water. Puree kale in blender or food processor with reserved water until smooth.
2. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Melt butter in small saucepan; whisk in flour. Cook 1 minute. Add milk. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until thick. Season with allspice, nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir in barley and kale. Season to taste. Transfer to lightly buttered baking dish or ramekins. Top with grated cheese. Bake until lightly browned on top, about 30 minutes.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 210 Fat …………. 7 g Saturated fat .. 4.2 g
% calories from fat .. 31 Cholesterol … 20 mg Sodium …….. 295 mg
Carbohydrates …… 28 g Protein …….. 10 g Fiber ………… 5 g
BARLEY RISOTTO
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour, 10 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
This recipe is adapted from one by Michael McNally, chef at London Grill.
6 cups chicken broth
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 cup pearl barley, rinsed
1 cup dry white wine
Salt, freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons cold butter
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, optional
1. Heat broth to simmer in saucepan. Heat oil in heavy pot. Add onion to oil; saute until it becomes translucent, about 5 minutes. Add barley; cook, stirring until it is coated in oil and begins to smell toasty, about 2 minutes.
2. Stir in 2 cups of the broth. Cook, stirring, until almost evaporated, about 15 minutes. Add wine. Cook, stirring, until liquid is nearly absorbed, about 8 minutes. Add broth one ladle at a time as broth begins to be absorbed. Continue until barley becomes tender, 30-35 minutes. Add 1 cup of broth; season with salt and pepper. Stir briefly. Turn off heat; cover. Let rest 5 minutes, or until ready to serve.
3. Place over low heat. Add 1/2 cup of the broth, butter and cheese. Stir vigorously until creamy. Season to taste.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 355 Fat ………… 15 g Saturated fat … 5 g
% calories from fat .. 38 Cholesterol … 16 mg Sodium ….. 1,225 mg
Carbohydrates …… 42 g Protein …….. 13 g Fiber ……….. 8 g
