Visiting an outdoor flea market in the winter is not for the meek. But hardy crowds continue to rummage, bargain and lug boxes and bags of goods about at Chicago’s main open-air markets throughout the cold months — and not just on weekends.
Swap-O-Rama owner Jim Pierski considers fleas “the first line of retailing.” He proudly states that today’s fleas offer everything from fruit and vegetables to legal services.
“The dynamic behind the markets is that people come to save money or find unusual things at a bargain price. In the last five years I’ve seen a large increase in the number of sellers — people wanting to supplement their income. A variety of sellers means a variety of goods, and that’s what keeps the fleas going strong. The weekly shopping trip in Mexico, Puerto Rico and some European countries is to a marketplace like Swap-O-Rama. That’s why I think a lot of our customers feel at home here,” notes Pierski, who founded Swap-O-Rama in the early 1980s.
Although the fleas can be alternative grocery stores and shopping malls for many, others can be seen buying Peruvian wool coats and hats for $25-$35.
At the outdoor Ashland Swap-O-Rama, ranchera tunes from a radio tuned to WOJO blare from a booth a few rows away as Arturo Hernandez from southwest Missouri skins cactus pieces next to his kerosene heater, which doubles as an aromatic corn roaster. For the last 18 years Hernandez has driven 500 miles round-trip each weekend to the Ashland Swap-O-Rama.
“There are a lot of Mexicans here, and that’s good for me. I don’t go to markets where there are a lot of Americans because they pick out one or two tomatoes. Mexicans buy three and four pounds of tomatoes,” said Hernandez.
Even though their provenance may be questionable, tools (new or used) and supplies of every sort imaginable are available at most flea markets, including Kilz primer, road salt, shovels and snow blowers. A carpenter at the market noted, however, that an “honor system” exists for tradesmen who have their tools stolen. “If you can find them at the fleas or Maxwell Street, then the seller gives ’em back to you. No questions asked.”
Watching over his table of musical instruments from inside his heated van, merchant “Don” wears a visor embroidered with the word “Easiness” over his knit winter hat. Tambourines and shakers are lined up on his table, along with adult and child guitars and a few drum kits underneath. Don used to sell at the original Maxwell Street market before it was moved to Canal Street. “I come [to Ashland Swap-O-Rama] now because the people are more real. You’re dealing with real people, not prettiness. When you deal with prettiness you’re dealing with politics. And politics is full of tricks,” explained Don, who then sold a used, child-size violin (with case and accessories) to a customer for $25.
Merchants agree that January is a moderate to slow time of the year for them. In the heated indoor market, tile merchant Dave Jones says he’s hurting at the moment: “The last two months have been all about Christmas presents and not home improvement.” Dave and his father, Sonny, sells odd-lots, end-runs and factory close-outs for about half the price of discount chains. “People here don’t have a lot of money to work with, and they want a good deal. That’s our customer. It’s mostly word of mouth about a good price for tile,” said Sonny Jones.
The indoor Alsip Swap-O-Rama has wider aisles and newer concrete floors. The booths are less cluttered and overall it’s a notch less rag-tag than the Ashland Swap-O-Rama. On the other hand, there is more generic merchandise: new luggage, knock-off designer leather purses and an abundance of cell phones and pagers. Cowboy boots can be bought in snakeskin, eel skin, pink python skin, ostrich skin and lizard skin. There are even two guys selling custom-built computers. One unique buy at Alsip is a bunch of live bamboo stems for $3 (including a bag of rocks) that can add variety to a houseplant collection.
The outdoor parking lot at the Alsip Swap-O-Rama is akin to a rummage sale. Bins of remote controls, tool bits and coiled marine rope are scattered among rows of old snowblowers, shovels and the occasional wine rack or boat steering wheel (the vendor says he has sold more than 60 to decorators, only one to a boat owner).
The Sunday “Maxwell Street” market (now at Canal Street and Roosevelt Road) offers the same selection of new and used “odds and ends” that are found at the other markets. It’s a true open-air market where one might find a collectible figurine from “occupied Japan” ($5), a pair of used men’s ice skates ($1) or a disco ball Christmas ornament ($3) before enjoying a mouth-watering pupusas (a puffed Salvadoran tortilla with cheese, pork and beans) straight from the grill for lunch.
High-quality handmade items include the best overall selection of Ecuadorian sweaters, hats and coats. Other quality clothing includes merchant Howard Cipkin’s hand-sewn fur hats of mink, bear and wolf ($40-$50.) A retired butcher, Cipkin says that he happily has returned to the millinery trade he honed for most of his life in Poland. “I don’t like to sit around. I only come here in the winter, of course. They are my best months,” says Cipkin, who says that Canada, Alaska and Wisconsin provide a plentiful source of fur for his boutique-quality (or better) hats, each of which takes an entire day to make.
Known as the “Queen Flea,” now-deceased Helen Robinson (who wrote a book of the same title) founded the Kane Country Flea Market. This upscale market is clearly the den for antique dealers, decorators and weekend thrifters.
Under the tarp-covered swine and sheep sheds rests oak and maple cabinets, pressback chairs, buffets, cupboards, chests, kitchen islands — nearly all in superb condition. Merchants Dan and Shirley Salder from northern Wisconsin display dozens of “country primitives” (used as ornamentation) — such as augers, small chairs and a red metal scooter. “Now you see the scooters everywhere. Here’s a scooter from the 1940s. It’s a history lesson through stuff,” said Dan Salder.
“Antiques are dead. Shabby chic is in,” says Billy Faulkenberg, who steps from the blasting heat inside his truck to show two women how to take a square of ceiling tin and turn it into a clock by adding the hands and a small motor.
“It’s about making stuff from architectural pieces. Re-use. You can take these iron stairwell banisters, turn ’em over and with a slab of sandstone it’s a built-in buffet. You have to show people how to use ’em,” said Faulkenberg who is from the St. Louis area.
Marde Scardamaglia, the granddaughter of Helen Robinson, runs the Kane County Flea Market and says it’s not unusual for film production companies to scour the sheds for props.”Bill Murray, Cindy Crawford and her mom come here a lot too.
“The reason to come in the winter, even though there are about half — or less — of the sellers, is that it’s less crowded. You might get a better deal depending on what you’re looking for. That can well make up for the cold.”
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Swap-O-Rama: all are open every Thursday, Saturday and Sunday until 5 p.m.
Locations: 4100 Ashland Ave.; 4350 W. 129th St., Alsip; 4600 W. Lake St., Melrose Park.
There is a $1 entrance fee at all Swap-O-Ramas
Maxwell Street Market: open every Sunday.
Location: Canal Street and Roosevelt Road.
Kane County Flea Market: open the first Sunday of every month, and the Saturday prior, until 5 p.m.
Location: Kane County Fairgrounds, 520 Randall Rd., St. Charles.
Tips:
All flea markets have automatic teller machines and indoor bathrooms, except Maxwell Street (which has three portable toilets and a nearby Jewel with an ATM). Bring your own bags and an empty trunk, because you’re bound to buy more than you came for.
