Strawberries in January? No problem. There are other berries in our markets, too, black and blue and red. Fresh herbs are available, as are half-a-dozen lettuces, three or four colors of bell pepper and green and white asparagus.
The drab Chicago winter markets of the past were dominated by root vegetables: potatoes, beets, celery root, parsnips and rutabaga. The fruit display was mostly oranges, grapefruit and a few persimmons.
Today our mythical personal gardener cultivates farms and orchards around the globe. His mission has been stability, guaranteeing the year-round presence of perishables as basic as lettuce and as exotic as wild mushrooms. He has succeeded spectacularly, thanks to factors as diverse as expanded sources of supply, cheaper, faster and more reliable deliveries by plane and truck, and the strong American dollar.
Meanwhile, consumer demand has grown apace, thanks to our well-traveled taste buds, passion for variety, and health concerns that inspire increased consumption of fruits and vegetables. This growth has occurred despite prices that may be half again what locally grown items cost in season, up to double or more if the item is organically grown.
Jason Duran, Midwest produce director for the Whole Foods Markets chain, points out that in all but one of his stores, produce is the first department customers enter. (This is true as well in Dominick’s Fresh stores.) Perishables occupy 15 percent to 20 percent of the linear footage in these stores, he reports, and account for 15 percent to 20 percent of each store’s income, up to twice as much as conventional grocery items.
So seamless has been this makeover that it’s easy to take for granted. Yet a stroll past the fruit and vegetable displays at Whole Foods Market on North Avenue reveals a veritable United Nations of food. (Whole Foods is not alone in this, but the store obligingly has cards atop most display bins citing the origins of the foods.)
Not surprisingly, California dominates the U.S. delegation. Latin America is represented by chilies from Mexico, plantains from Peru, berries from Chile and more. The Technicolor bell pepper display offers red ones from Mexico, yellow from the Netherlands and orange from British Columbia. Spain sends us clementines and Italy, chestnuts.
“About 80 percent of our products are in the store year-round,” says Danny DeLeon, a produce manager at Whole Foods on North Avenue. “About 60 percent comes from California or Florida.”
Always summer
That leaves plenty of opportunity for players from other regions and countries to join the game, and they have. The monetary value of imported vegetables and fruits grew more than 20 percent between 1995 and 1998, to $8.4 billion, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
“It’s always summer somewhere,” says Tristan Millar, director of marketing for Frieda’s, a Los Angeles-based leader in the international specialty produce business. South America, South Africa and New Zealand are some of the areas markets look to when local production is limited.
Frieda’s publishes a twice-monthly “crop update,” listing items coming in or going out of season, as well as new offerings. Between early and late December, for instance, 19 new items appeared on the sheet with notations such as “Sugar Snap Peas: Supplies remain limited due to a freeze in Guatemala. Look for improvement during January,” or “Kiwanos: Supplies out of California are winding down and market is firming. Washington will start once California is finished.”
“Once we were lucky to have 30 to 40 items a day from overseas to offer our customers,” says Tom Cornille, a Chicago specialty produce wholesaler. “Now the number can be over 100. Look at the explosion of demand for tropical fruit and fruit drinks during the ’90s. Ethnic chefs here want to cook with ingredients from their homelands.”
Not all of our new edibles come from abroad. Washington State has broadened its apple selection to include relative newcomers such as Fuji and Gala. California not only raises most of our carrots, celery and lettuce but also provides Swiss chard, bok choy, daikon radishes, kumquats, dates, okra and snow pea shoots.
“Consumers are more adventurous today and well-traveled,” Millar says. “They may taste something in Chile or Thailand and help create a demand for it when they return home.”
Demand for produce differs from region to region, she adds: “East and West Coast consumers are very eager to try whatever is new–a golden kiwi, for example. The Meyer lemon has caught on big in California. That doesn’t mean a store in Chicago is going to carry it.
“But our goal is not to introduce dozens and dozens of new products each year. For one thing, it’s not that easy to find something no one has heard of.”
“The selection is almost absurd in some cases,” Cornille says. “You find horn melons in the biggest markets. The public does not necessarily know what to do with them, but they are available regularly.”
Progress and produce
That’s now. Half a century ago, as long-distance trucks began to carry perishables from California and Florida over the nation’s brand-new super-highway system, irregular deliveries and spoiled produce were commonplace. But as chain supermarkets sprung up in new suburbs across the country, methods of storage and shipping improved markedly.
“By the mid-’60s the business was less haphazard and some new items, especially tropical fruit from the Caribbean islands, were coming to the U.S. by boat,” Cornille recalls. “By the early ’70s, airlines were flying fresh pineapple from Hawaii.”
Air transport, which became increasingly available and affordable in the ’80s, provided the opportunity to bring in more exotic perishables.
“Red peppers and raspberries had been delicacies,” Cornille says, “items that restaurants wanted on Friday to impress the weekend trade. Now it was possible to buy them all week long.”
“Even 10 years ago, we would have certain products only at certain times of year,” says Steve Kinishi, vice president of produce merchandising at Dominick’s Finer Foods. “Grapes, peaches and nectarines were among the first contra-seasonal items. They came from Chile in their summer, our winter. Now we get apples from South Africa and New Zealand in their fall, our spring. Also, improved controlled-atmosphere storage provides longer availability of apples and sweet onions, among others.”
“Modern technology affords us far better product than in the early days,” Cornille says. “Today we can call Southern California at noon. The product will be harvested in early afternoon, shipped in late afternoon, arrive here late evening. It will be cooked and on the table within 24 hours.
“Not that everything coming here is meritorious. Plums and peaches and nectarines are not great. They are shipped green so they will not rot, but too much transportation still hurts the fruit. They are not the equal of our local fruit in season.”
Some chefs, food lovers and writers use such shortcomings to condemn the globalization of the food supply. They also warn against ecological dangers they see in exporting our corporate farming methods. They urge us to return to basics, eat regionally and, as much as possible, eat fruits and vegetables only during their local season.
Searching for the best
Nonetheless, industry encourages the hunt for produce on demand.
“Our ultimate objective is to offer our perishables year-round, using the best product available anywhere,” says Whole Food’s Duran.
That is a dizzying task.
Frieda’s has cultivated 900 contacts in agriculture areas around the world. The firm’s employees work the phones, faxes and e-mail to update projections on crops and weather while others scout Los Angeles wholesale markets.
Throughout the year Whole Foods buys its on-the-vine tomatoes in Texas, then in the Netherlands, Spain and Israel. Depending on the season, blueberries are shipped here from New Jersey, Michigan, California, Washington State, New Zealand and Chile. Field inspectors and buyers from the chain visit farms to be sure its specifications are met.
“We’re well in the know,” Duran says, “but we still have to contend with acts of God, such as floods, truck accidents and the fact that as hard as we try, we don’t hit a home run with each crop each time we receive a new shipment.”
But he and others say that doing business with the United States has led to improved growing practices on the part of farmers overseas. Duran, who visited Mexican suppliers last year, cites improved water and soil conditions. (In some cases, Americans operate or have invested in the farms.)
“Growers used to care most how well their produce would take the ride from farm to market,” Dominick’s Kinishi says. “Now they are focusing more on producing fruits and vegetables with very good eating quality.
“Acceptance of imported products came slowly. There’s a natural preference for corn and watermelon and peaches grown close to home. Yet the consumer’s interest in fresh produce continues to grow, and the strong dollar has made the imports more attractive.”
A growing harvest
Still, product development is continual at universities and seed companies. An example is the toma-pepper. It’s a cross between a tomato and a bell pepper from the Baja California region of Mexico. It looks like a squat red bell pepper but tastes like a tomato, Frieda’s Millar says. Last year there was a small crop from a 6- to 8-week season that was sold to the Kroger chain.
Cornille believes the evolution of the fresh produce department has reached a plateau and will remain there for some time. He sees a trend in “extension growing,” in which acreage in parts of Mexico, notably Baja California, or Arizona is planted in popular California crops, thus extending their availability.
“We’ve been given so much in so little time,” he says. “We need to digest it. How do we use all these products? How much of them do we want? The product knowledge of chefs and the curiosity of consumers both are way up, but will we find better high quality produce for year-round consumption? Not necessarily. Are we saturated? Should we ask, ‘Where do we go from here?’
“Truth is, we’ve seen the ends of the earth. Now all we need do is enjoy ourselves.”
GLOBAL MIX AND MATCH
To further appreciate the global marketplace that brings Americans fresh fruits and vegetables in the dead of winter, here’s a matching game. Connect each of the 12 fruits or vegetables to the nation, state or town on the left where the item is grown. Expect some surprises.
If you guess 10 correctly, congratulate yourself with an apple (from Washington State, Normandy or Chile).
The pairings were made at a Whole Foods store early in January. Selections and sources may have changed.
— William Rice
FRUIT/VEGETABLE
1. Yukon gold potatoes
2. Green asparagus
3. Yellow bell peppers
4. Dandelion greens
5. Broccoli rabe (rapini)
6. Red tomato cluster
7. Haas avocados
8. Red raspberries
9. Chestnuts
10. Endive
11. Orange bell peppers
12. Assorted fresh herbs
LOCATION
a. British Columbia
b. Chile
c. Israel
d. Illinois
e. Italy
f. Holland
g. California
h. Mexico
i. Wauconda, Ill.
j. Peru
k. Argentina
l. Washington State
Answers: 1-d, 2-j, 3-a, 4-g, 5-l, 6-f, 7-b, 8-k, 9-e, 10-h, 11-c, 12-i.
PASTA PRIMAVERA
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
Adapted from “The Italian American Cookbook” by John and Galina Mariani.
1 pound dried fettuccine
1 tablespoon salt
6 asparagus spears, sliced
1 cup each: snow peas, sliced broccoli
1 small zucchini, sliced
1 tablespoon olive oil
6 mushrooms, sliced
1/3 cup pine nuts, toasted, see note
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup frozen baby peas
1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
Salt, freshly ground pepper
1 cup whipping cream
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup chopped basil
2 tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1. Heat large pot of water to boil. Add fettuccine and salt. Cook until al dente, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, place steamer basket in saucepan filled with about 1 inch of water. Heat to boil. Add asparagus, snow peas, broccoli and zucchini; cover. Steam about 2 minutes. Rinse vegetables under cold water; drain. Set aside.
2. Meanwhile, heat olive oil over medium-high heat in large, deep skillet. Add mushrooms; cook 2 minutes. Add pine nuts and garlic; cook, stirring, until garlic begins to turn golden, 1 minute. Add steamed vegetables, peas, parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Cook until heated through, 2-3 minutes. Add drained fettuccine. Add cream, Parmesan cheese and butter; toss to coat fettuccine. Heat through. Toss in basil. Transfer to serving bowl. Scatter tomatoes on top.
Note: To toast pine nuts, heat oven to 300 degrees. Place pine nuts on baking sheet. Toast in oven until lightly browned, about 3-6 minutes.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 565 Fat ………… 29 g Saturated fat .. 14 g
% calories from fat .. 45 Cholesterol … 70 mg Sodium ……. 315 mg
Protein ………… 18 g Carbohydrate … 62 g Fiber ……….. 6 g
PEAK-OF-SUMMER BERRY CRISP
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 40 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
Adapted from “Tom Douglas’ Seattle Kitchen.”
1 pint each: raspberries, blueberries
1/4 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons flour
Topping:
2/3 cup each: old-fashioned oats, firmly packed brown sugar, flour
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
Vanilla ice cream or sweetened whipped cream
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Toss together berries, sugar and flour in small bowl. Pour berry mixture into 9-inch pie pan. Set aside.
2. For topping, combine oats, brown sugar, flour and cinnamon in small bowl. Mix in butter using pastry blender or fingertips until crumbly. Spread topping over berries.
3. Bake until topping is golden brown and juices are bubbling, about 40 minutes. Spoon warm crisp into bowls; top with scoop of vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 365 Fat ………… 13 g Saturated fat … 7 g
% calories from fat .. 30 Cholesterol … 30 mg Sodium …….. 15 mg
Protein ……….. 3.7 g Carbohydrate … 62 g Fiber ……… 5.5 g
TOMATO-BASIL CROSTINI WITH SHAVED PARMESAN
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Marinating time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 16 minutes
Yield: 30 crostini
Adapted from “The Tribeca Grill Cookbook,” by Don Pintabona.
1/2 pint each: red and yellow tear-drop tomatoes, halved, or 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved
3 shallots, finely diced
1/4cup chopped basil
1/4cup olive oil plus 2 tablespoons
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 loaf French bread, cut 1 /4-inch thick
3 large cloves garlic, minced
1/4 pound Parmesan cheese, optional
1. Heat oven to 325 degrees. Combine tomatoes, shallots and basil in glass bowl. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and vinegar; toss to combine. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside at room temperature 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, place bread slices on baking sheet. Combine remaining 1/4 cup olive oil with garlic in small dish. Brush each side of bread with olive oil mixture. Season lightly with salt and pepper on each side. Bake until golden, about 8 minutes on each side.
3. Thinly slice Parmesan cheese using cheese shaver or vegetable peeler. Spoon about 1 tablespoon of the tomato mixture on top of each crostini; place cheese slice on top of each.
Nutrition information per crostini:
Calories …………. 70 Fat ………… 3 g Saturated fat .. 0.4 g
% calories from fat .. 39 Cholesterol … 0 mg Sodium ……… 85 mg
Protein ……….. 1.5 g Carbohydrate … 9 g Fiber ………. 0.6 g
