(3 forks) (The rating has been added to this text.)
1927 W. North Ave.
773-772-4422
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 11:30 a.m. to
12:30 a.m. Fri.; 11 a.m. to 12:30 a.m. Sat.; 11 a.m. to11 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: A, D, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
Broad, waist-high windows overlook traffic-choked North Avenue in Wicker Park, but this joint, formerly a garage for a roofing company, is spacious enough to give diners as much distance as they like. High overhead, a greenhouse ceiling lets in natural light, which does good things for the dark woodwork. A street-level pit, equipped with tiny tables and a perimeter banquette, provides a cozy hangout.
On the plate
Pizza in the mold of New Haven, Conn., is the draw here. (That, and the scuttlebutt that participants of MTV’s “Real World” drop in.) The hand-formed pie is fairly thin but chewy around the edges, softer toward the center. Start with one of three base models–plain (with tomato sauce, Parmesan and garlic), white (olive oil, garlic and mozzarella) or red (tomato sauce and mozzarella)–and add toppings, from anchovies to spinach. Fresh salads and, until 4 p.m., deliciously messy sandwiches on crusty bread, round out the offerings.
At your service
The staff is so friendly and relaxed that at first you may fear your hunger won’t be uppermost in their minds. Not to worry. That baking sheet full of pizza and condiments will be on its way soon.
Second helpings
Got a sweet tooth? You’ll love the crunchy candied pecans on the green salad with pears and Gorgonzola. A traditional Caesar works well too; the entree-minded can order it with roasted chicken breast. One East Coaster’s insistence on a bacon-and-clam topping for a white pizza turned out to be a good idea. Italian sausage and spinach on a plain base tastes great, but any moist vegetable increases the crust’s sog factor: Chicago-style pizza eaters should resist the urge to load more than a couple of toppings onto a Piece pie. A sandwich of roasted turkey and bacon grows even richer with the addition of pesto and Gorgonzola. Dried-tomato mayonnaise and goat cheese have the same effect on a roasted vegetable sandwich; in both cases sturdy bread soaks up overflow.
Take a pass
The traditional team of pepperoni and mozzarella makes a too-greasy combination here. A Kolsch-style draft beer was stale and going flat on one visit.
Thirst quenchers
Piece brews a rotating menu of five to seven beers bolstered by drafts from other local brewers and a range of Belgian and other European bottlings. The bar also sports a short wine list.
Extras
This is one pizza place with valet parking.
Price range
Appetizers, $2.95-$5.95; salads, $3.95-$9.95; sandwiches (until 4 p.m.), $5.95-$6.95; pizzas start at $8.95 (a 12-inch-diameter “small”) plus $1.50 to $2 per topping.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
