(2 forks)
2143 S. Archer Ave.
312-328-0228
Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
Credit cards: M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
Though centrally located in Chinatown, this 2-year-old establishment is something of a find. A good many hungry diners never reach it because they are drawn to the popular Phoenix, located next door. Even if those diners do reach Mandarin Kitchen, they will find no immediately compelling reason to stay. A casual glance from the entrance reveals a small bar and a modest dining room with run-of-the-mill furnishings. The greeting is friendly, though, and the menu convinces you this is a serious restaurant: The number of items exceeds 300.
On the plate
Although the name Mandarin Kitchen might imply the cooking style of Beijing, it is instead Sichuan-inspired. Sichuan is to Chinese cuisine what Southwestern dishes are to American: The cooking is rustic and dishes often come with more fiery peppers and more oil than you will find in the food of Guangzhou (Canton) or other more refined regions. The reward is food with lots of taste and flavor. The selections, in more than a dozen categories, are bold and truly broad. You need never leave the appetizer category, so varied and savory are the choices. In addition to familiar and Western-palate-friendly dishes such as bon bon chicken and crab rangoon, you will find pig ear and tongue, rabbit, jellyfish and kidneys.
At your service
The servers are attentive and know the food they are serving. Despite the need to overcome occasional language barriers, you will be well advised on the size and heat content of various dishes.
Second helpings
Appetizers are unfailingly well prepared. Jellyfish Shanghai-style are light and pastalike with a subtle ginger flavor. Tender ginger kidneys, scored and well cooked, are garnished with bean sprouts and hot ginger. “Lamb strings,” strips of skewered leg meat, were intriguingly seasoned and served with cubes of pineapple. Under the category “snack” lurk earthy, chewy Chengdu dumplings with spicy dipping sauce. Among main dishes, salt and pepper prawns are fresh, meaty and not too salty. Among the vegetables, Peking-style eggplant is a rich and fragrant delight, and string beans in black bean sauce are salty, spicy and irresistible.
Take a pass
From a survey of surrounding tables, it appears that Mandarin Kitchen’s best seller is something called a hot pot. A pot containing broth and a tray of raw ingredients are delivered to the table. Diners then cook their own food by immersing it in the broth with chop sticks or (for noodles) a small strainer, fish it out and anointing it with one or more sauces. This ritual may be fun as a first course for a large group, but for us the food not nearly as tasty as if a chef had seasoned and cooked it.
Thirst quenchers
No revelations here: tea, soft drinks and a modest selection of beer and wines.
Price range
Soups start at $1.95; appetizers are less than $5. Meat entrees, $8-$10; seafood, $9-$12; whole fish and special preparations, $16-$23. Hot pot, $9.95 per person ($10.95 on Sunday), with additional charges for extra items.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Chicago Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
