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Star reviews are based on at least two visits by the Tribune critic.

* = Good

** = Very Good

*** = Excellent

**** = Outstanding

Fork reviews are based on at least one visit by a Tribune staffer.

(1 fork) = Good

(2 forks) = Very Good

(3 forks) = One of the best

(4 forks) = Don’t miss it

Credit card key

A American Express

DC Diners’ Club

DS Discover

M MasterCard

V Visa

NEW = A review added since the last Dining Guide

UPDATE = A restaurant revisited since the last Dining Guide

CLASSIC = A true Chicago institution

NEW

Como *

695 N. Milwaukee Ave.

312-733-7400

The grandsons of Giuseppe Marchetti, founder of the Como Inn, created this Near West Side restaurant. You’ll find Como Inn specialties such as fileto con vino or spaghetti alla Como, but the brothers Marchetti have tried to balance the old with more contemporary dishes. The prettily landscaped courtyard is a real plus in warm weather.

Recommended: Sausage and peppers, grilled calamari, veal marsala.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $10.95-$26.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

NEW

Fortunato **

2005 W. Division St.

773-645-7200

No calamari and no tiramisu are the watchwords at Jennifer Newbury’s Wicker Park restaurant, where imaginative dishes are always true to their country-Italian roots and simplicity and flavor reign. The decor marries rustic earth tones with contemporary urban materials.

Recommended: Baby octopus, braised duck with polenta, wood-grilled trout, lemon pudding, pistachio torta.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $14-$19

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

NEW

Gioco ***

1312 S. Wabash Ave.

312-939-3870

Corcoran O’Connor, who worked under Paul Bartolotta at Spiaggia for five years, has established this South Loop spot as one of the finest Italian restaurants in the city. O’Connor has a fondness for simplicity and rustic flavors, which seems compatible enough with the dining room’s distressed-urban decor. The heavily Italian wine list, organized by flavor profile, is easy to navigate.

Recommended: Octopus carpaccio, pizzas, herb-stuffed striped bass, ricotta-spinach tortelloni.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $12-$32

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

Spiaggia ****

980 N. Michigan Ave.

312-280-2750

World-class in virtually every respect, Spiaggia reigns as Chicago’s finest Italian restaurant. Chef Tony Mantuano oversees a menu that’s true to Italian simplicity but dazzles diners with outstanding ingredients and flawless preparation. Precise, professional service is extremely personable, and Henry Bishop’s literate and vast wine list could keep a wine-lover busy for hours. The tiered, platinum-and-white dining room is magnificent.

Recommended: Pancetta-wrapped rabbit, swordfish carpaccio, potato gnocchi, baba all’arancia.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Fri.-Sat.

Entree prices: $29-$38

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; jacket required; no smoking in dining room.

NEW

312 Chicago **

Hotel Allegro

136 N. LaSalle St.

312-696-2420

An ideal pre-theater destination, this comfortable hotel property sits within steps (or a short stroll) from three Loop theaters. What was once an Italian-accented American menu by Dean Zanella is now much more assertively Italian — and considerably improved in the process.

Recommended: Gnocchi with rabbit, pheasant with goat cheese and polenta, halibut in tomato broth.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., breakfast and lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12.95-$23.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Vinci ***

1732 N. Halsted St.

312-266-1199

Paul LoDuca cranks out robust regional Italian food that is uniformly delightful. The dining room is awash in faux finishes and trompe l’oeil effects, all aimed at creating a pleasing rusticity. Theater proximity is a plus.

Recommended: Polenta con fungi, grilled sausage, bruschetta, pizza dell’ Ortolano, grandma’s linguine, fish stew, apple cake, zuccotto, panna cotta.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $8.95-$21.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Vivere ***

71 W. Monroe St.

312-332-4040

Now a dozen years old, Vivere is as appealing as ever. Jordan Mozer’s offbeat take on Italian-Baroque design still looks fresh and daring and, similarly, chef Jonathan Harootunian’s cooking adds a contemporary accent to his Italian-rooted dishes. The encyclopedic wine list is fun to read, but it’s more efficient to rely on sommelier Ron Balter.

Recommended: Sea scallops with “angel hair” potatoes, pesce crudo, lasagnette, duck with rapini, dessert assortment.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13.50-$29.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

NORTH

Campagnola ***

815 Chicago Ave., Evanston

847-475-6100

One of the top five Italian restaurants in the area, Campagnola is a supremely comfortable and low-key spot with a talented chef in owner Michael Altenberg, whose vividly flavored country-style cooking is routinely superb.

Recommended: Whole black bass livornese, lamb chops, braised duck, scallops, panna cotta.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $18-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking; no smoking.

Carlucci Lincolnshire **

250 Marriott Dr., Lincolnshire

847-478-0990

Joe Carlucci’s first Lake County foray has been almost too successful; so many people want to dine here on weekends they sometimes overwhelm capacity, even though the place seats 300. A few bites of Michael Pivoney’s food and you’ll understand why. Those familiar with the long-closed Carlucci in Lincoln Park will recognize a few dishes.

Recommended: Steamed mussels, pork in sun-dried cherry sauce, linguine, tiramisu.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $16.95-$29.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet parking Fri., Sat.; smoking in bar only.

Va Pensiero ***

1566 Oak Ave., Evanston

847-475-7779

One of the finest Italian restaurants in the area. Food is superb, the all-Italian wine list is stellar, and eagle-eyed waiters anticipate every need. The dining rooms are lovely, and don’t forget the brick patio in summer.

Recommended: Shrimp over risotto-onion cake and pistachio pesto, brodetto (shellfish in a zesty broth), chocolate budino, chocolate hazelnut torte.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

SOUTH

Biaggio’s **

10296 S. 78th Ave., Palos Hills

708-237-1050

28 S. Orland Square Dr., Orland Park

708-460-9600

Chef/owner Bob Walsh, who previously cooked at Jilly’s Retro Bar and several Rosebud restaurants, believes in big portions and has no fear of garlic. Rasheeda Ali-Walsh, who runs the front room, is Walsh’s wife and Muhammed Ali’s daughter, which explains the boxing gloves in the bar.

Recommended: Shrimp Biaggio, seafood salad, veal saltimbocca, red-pepper gnocchi, Chocolate Cigar.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., (lcub) Orland Mon.-Sun), lunch Tue.-Fri. (Orland Mon.-Fri.)

Entree prices: $9.95-$21.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Japanese

CITY

Bob San **

1805 W. Division St.

773-235-8888

An urban-looking restaurant with exposed rafters and stainless-steel accents. Sushi is a big part of the menu, though there is a substantial list of light entrees. The kitchen stays open late, a bonus for nightcrawlers.

Recommended: Gyoza, octopus salad, mother-and-child sashimi, Bob San handroll.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $13.95-$18.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Heat ***

1507 N. Sedgwick St.

312-397-9818

This ultra-modern Old Town sushi specialist has gotten lots of attention for its “live” selection of still-squirming seafood, but in truth that’s just a small part of the offerings here, where you’ll find a compact menu of beautifully presented dishes. Or skip the decision-making entirely and order the 11-course kaiseki menu for $95.

Recommended: Spicy tuna roll, sake-marinated salmon.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon., Wed.-Sat.

Sushi prices: $5-$18

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking.

NEW

Kamehachi of Tokyo *

240 E. Ontario St.

312-587-0600

Already successful in its Gold Coast and north suburban locations, Kamehachi has added this ambitious Streeterville sibling, a minimalist, three-level space where the bar TVs display Japanese cartoons and Godzilla movies and the dining room offers sushi, sashimi and cooked entrees. The user-friendly menu designates those dishes containing no raw seafood.

Recommended: Chicago crazy roll, sauteed scallops, teriyaki trout, raspberry bavarois.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $10.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

Mirai ***

2020 W. Division St.

773-862-8500

Unimpeachably fresh seafood, imaginative preparations and charming atmosphere make this arguably the best sushi restaurant in town, though the menu offers more than just sushi and sashimi. I wish Mirai had more seats.

Recommended: Monkfish pate, horse mackerel sashimi, otoro tuna sushi, tuna steak, green tea ice cream.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $13-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking; no smoking in dining room.

Sushi Wabi **

842 W. Randolph St.

312-563-1224

An urban-chic sushi restaurant with artfully prepared food in a minimalist space highlighted by concrete slabs, structural steel and tabletops of reclaimed timber. The kitchen is a little slow, but displays of nigiri zushi and maki rolls look gorgeous when they arrive, and portions are generous. On weekends a deejay spins industrial pop to progressive jazz at a pleasantly discreet sound level.

Recommended: Unagi (sea eel), mackerel and uni (sea urchin) sushi, spider maki, dragon maki, seared tuna, poached pear mochi.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $9-$21

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NORTHWEST

Maki Sushi **

12 S. Northwest Hwy., Park Ridge

847-318-1920

You don’t see Art Deco accents in sushi bars often, but as this space is part of the historic Pickwick Theatre building, it fits. A U-shaped sushi bar is centered in the dining room, surrounded by freestanding tables. The compact menu isn’t particularly adventurous, better suited to neophytes than true aficionados. Friendly atmosphere, pretty lacquered chopsticks and a well-thought-out wine list are pluses.

Recommended: Park Ridge maki, rainbow maki, Peachy maki, Japanese cherry tart.

Open: Dinner Mon-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $10-$19

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

SOUTH

House of Kobe (3 forks)

1951 Wicker Blvd., Schererville, Ind.

219-322-1919

House of Kobe offers rowdy teppan-yaki dining as well as a large variety of pristinely fresh sushi and sashimi. It’s also lots of fun for the kids, making it a great spot for family dining.

Recommended: Alaskan red salmon steak, stir-fried steak, sushi assortment, saki skin-maki.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8.50-$35

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required on weekends

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Korean

CITY

So Gong Dong Tofu House (3 forks)

3307 W. Bryn Mawr Ave.

773-539-8377

This Korean restaurant sets itself apart with its unique menu of tofu soups done eight ways. Clean, modern furnishings and pleasant aromas greet customers.

Recommended: Miso and pork tofu soup, barbecued ribs, mak guk soo.

Open: Dinner and lunch Thu.-Tue.

Entree prices: $6.90-$9.20

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Soju (3 forks)

1745 W. North Ave.

773-782-9000

The sweet and fiery components of Korean cooking combine perfectly at this stylish spot, on the Wicker Park/Bucktown border.

Recommended: Soju chicken, kimchi bindae duk (vegetable pancake), kalbi, bulgoggi.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7-$19

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: BYOB

Latin

CITY

Mas **

1670 W. Division St.

773-276-8700

One of the biggest successes of the Latin explosion of 2000, this Wicker Park spot continues to pack in the crowds, as does its sequel, Otro Mas, a bit further north.

Recommended: Ceviche del dia, roasted pork tenderloin, three chocolate martini.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $17-$27

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Bring earplugs

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking Thu.-Sat.

Nacional 27 **

325 W. Huron St.

312-664-2727

Cool as a tropical breeze, Lettuce Entertain You’s nuevo Latino concept features dishes culled from 27 Central American, South American and Caribbean nations — though fun and flavor are paramount, rather than strict authenticity. Tables and booths face a central dance floor, which heats up after 10 p.m. on weekends.

Recommended: Arepas, crab fritters, pork adobado, chorizo-crusted mahi mahi, mango flan.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $14-$25

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

WEST

Samba Room *

22 E. Chicago Ave., Naperville

630-753-0985

This lively restaurant is part of a nuevo Latino concept that originated in Dallas, but the kitchen product is nothing like you’d expect from a chain. Hefty portions of boldly seasoned food, appealing visuals and good service are pluses; horrific noise levels and ambient cigar smoke are minuses.

Recommended: Grilled mussels, spice-rubbed chicken, pork tenderloin over sweet-potato hash, chile-spiked chocolate cake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $11-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Bring earplugs

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Mediterranean

CITY

Wave **

644 N. Lake Shore Dr.

312-943-9200

Perhaps the hippest hotel dining room in town, this sunken space off the lobby of the W Chicago Lakeshore is a study in charcoal, gray and blue, dominated by a bright-red canopy that crests, wave-like, over the 18-seat communal table. The food is similarly sophisticated, though modestly priced.

Recommended: Fish soup, chilled prawns, rotisserie chicken, sea bass, black and white creme brulee.

Open: Dinner, lunch and breakfast Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking; no smoking.

Mexican

CITY

Chilpancingo ***

358 W. Ontario St.

312-266-9525

Geno Bahena’s second restaurant (he also owns Ixcapuzalco) is a more ambitious effort on all fronts: It’s a more formal and luxurious restaurant, is in a pricier neighborhood and offers a broader menu. But at the heart of it all is Bahena’s superior cooking, exemplified by outstanding mole sauces.

Recommended: Tostaditas de seviche, sopa de ajo, chicken breast in mole negro, salmon with peanut salsa, natillas classicas, Cafe Maya Xtabentun.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $14.50-$24.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

Don Juan on Halsted **

1729 N. Halsted St.

312-981-4000

This sequel to Don Juan in Edison Park is a little more contemporary than the original. Patrick Concannon is a little freer with his nuevo Mexicano cooking here, introducing a menu of small tacos and burritos (all less than $8) for light munching.

Recommended: Crab cake, tuna tartare, six chili chicken, camarones al Diablo, apple cinnamon bread pudding, flan.

Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $8-$20

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Frontera Grill ***

445 N. Clark St.

312-661-1434

Mexican food takes on a whole new dimension at Frontera Grill, where the authentic regional cooking of chef Rick Bayless is unsurpassed, yet marvelously accessible in concept and price.

Recommended: Sopes, queso fundido, pork with pasilla sauce, crepes.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $8-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible (elevator to lower-level restrooms); valet parking.

Salpicon ***

1252 N. Wells St.

312-988-7811

Priscila Satkoff turns out wonderful regional Mexican cooking–with an emphasis on her native Mexico City–at this Old Town restaurant, decorated with brightly colored walls and furniture, and even brighter colors on the Alejandro Romero paintings. There’s a well-chosen wine list and an impressive list of tequilas, too.

Recommended: Wild mushroom soup, octopus ceviche, shrimp mojo de ajo, tequila-marinated halibut, pollo yucateca, pastel tres leches.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Topolobampo ***1/2

445 N. Clark St.

312-661-1434

Somewhere in this world there may be a better Mexican restaurant, but until it is discovered, Rick and Deanna Bayless’ breathtaking River North establishment will have to do. The kitchen is ever-instructive in its presentation of stunning regional cuisine. It can take weeks to secure a reservation, but dining here is worth whatever effort is required.

Recommended: Seviche moderna, tequila-cured salmon, garlic soup, stuffed trout, lime tart, homemade ice creams, chocolate pecan pie.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $24-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

WEST

Las Bellas Artes **

112 W. Park Ave., Elmhurst

630-530-7725

This fine-dining outpost is good news for lovers of serious Mexican food in the suburbs. Not cheap, but the $32 prix-fixe dinner (five courses) is a good value.

Recommended: Black bean soup, chile relleno, chorizo pork loin, lamb, mole Amarillo.

Open: Dinner, 2:30 p.m. tea Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$25

Credit cards: DS, MC, V

Reservations: Strongly

recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

UPDATE

Salbute **

20 E. 1st St., Hinsdale

630-920-8077

This cozy Mexican restaurant finally got its liquor license, which means patrons now can enjoy massive margaritas or wine (from a carefully chosen list) with the boldly seasoned food of Jana Amsler and Edgar Rodriguez.

Recommended: Sea bass with blackberry sauce, chumayel, Salbute (achiote-marinated chicken), monte-bello (portobello mushroom in chipotle-goat cheese sauce).

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $13.95-$26.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout.

Middle Eastern

CITY

A La Turka (3 forks)

3134 N. Lincoln Ave.

773-935-6447

From its weekend entertainment — a belly dancer gyrates among tables and families crowd the dance floor — to its made-to-share sampler plates, conviviality is served in ample portions here. The Turkish menu is a zesty blend of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean influences.

Recommended: Karisik meze, karisik izgara, manti, baked eggplant.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $10-$17

Credit cards: DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Reza’s **

5255 N. Clark St.

773-561-1898

The pungent scent of charcoal grilling lets you know you’ve come to the right place. Copious portions of carefully prepared, prettily presented food are offered at very reasonable prices. There’s a very good wine list, too. In River North, a second Reza’s, at 432 W. Ontario St. (which actually is a former microbrewery), is virtually identical.

Recommended: Lamb shank, cornish hen with pomegranate sauce, grilled shrimp, baklava.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $7.95-$17.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Other: Parking lot

Souk ***

1552 N. Milwaukee Ave.

773-227-1818

It is rare to find Middle Eastern food so appealingly prepared, in such eye-easing surroundings. Souk (the name means “market”) is a lively convergence of Turkish, Lebanese, Afghan and Persian dishes, assembled by a kitchen that uses spices to entice the palate, not overwhelm it. Knowledgeable and confident servers can help neophytes navigate the menu.

Recommended: Cold appetizer assortment, shrimp chermoula, couscous Bahri, lahme steak, baklava.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $15-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NEW

Turkish Cuisine and Bakery (3 forks)

5605 N. Clark St.

773-878-8930

Red brick walls, kilim seat coverings and ethnic pop music welcome diners to this eatery and its authentic Turkish food. You’ll find grilled lamb and chicken in a variety of dishes as well as eggplant, tomatoes, peppers and yogurt sauces.

Recommended: Spicy adana kebab, spit-roasted doner kebab, pastrami-stuffed pie.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7.75-$12.75

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

Little Egypt (3 forks)

Tiffany Square

7216 W. College Drive (119th Street), Palos Heights

708-923-0392

This space is enormous, like an old-fashioned supper club, with decorations that evoke ancient Egypt.

Recommended: Appetizer combo, fattush salad, stuffed grape leaves, catfish, shawerma beef.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Wed.-Fri.

Entree prices: $6.95-$13.95

Credit cards: M, V

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Other: Wheelchair accessible; vegetarian dishes.

Pan Asian

CITY

Red Light ***

820 W. Randolph St.

312-733-8880

This pan-Asian concept features a focused, easy-to-navigate menu by chef Paul Wildermuth. There are nibbles galore in addition to a half-dozen or so full-sized entrees, and tasting menus are available for the decisive. There’s also a late-night menu that kicks in about 11 p.m.

Recommended: Ahi tuna tempura, five spice ribs, grilled quail, gingered pork dumplings, Taiwanese catfish, Wai Chee duck, housemade sorbets.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $17-$33

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Vong’s Thai Kitchen **

6 W. Hubbard St.

312-644-8664

The old Vong was redesigned last year, its prices lowered, its decor brightened and its French-Thai fusion menu simplified into something more recognizably Thai, albeit with a few contemporary twists.

Recommended: Thai spring rolls, tuna-wasabi pizza, spice-crusted halibut, lemongrass chicken, Thai tiramisu.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13.95-$20.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

WEST

NEW

L’anne **

221 W. Front St., Wheaton

630-260-1234

Bamboo floors, delicate orchids and a pastoral wall mural evoke a sense of French-colonial Vietnam in this pretty downtown Wheaton spot. There’s a strong Vietnamese emphasis to the French-Asian menu as well, though presentations are decidedly elegant and homemade desserts are strictly Western.

Recommended: Crabcake with chile remoulade, beef pho, Dungeness crab with garlic-caviar sauce.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $12-$28

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

SOUTH

Chi Tung (4 forks)

9560 S. Kedzie Ave., Evergreen Park

708-636-8180

When Chi Tung moved around the corner to its present location, the quality of the food remained the same: excellent.

Recommended: Sushi, barbecued rib appetizer, beef nom tok, General Tsao’s chicken, moo shu pork.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.95 -$9.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Polish

NORTH

Polo (2 forks)

8801 N. Milwaukee Ave., Niles

847-470-8822

Decor is unassuming inside and out, but the tasty, homespun Polish and Eastern European specialties make this place worth a visit.

Recommended: Polo combo plate, roast duck, veal, sweet table including carrot cake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7.50-$15.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Russian

CITY

Russian Tea Time **

77 E. Adams St.

312-360-0000

A delightful, handsome and surprisingly sophisticated ethnic gem, Russian Tea Time offers a wide-ranging and authentic menu of dishes from Russia and neighboring republics.

Recommended: Caviar and blinis, samsas (chopped-meat-filled pastries), vereniky (potato-stuffed pasta).

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12-$27

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Seafood

CITY

Atlantique ***

5101 N. Clark St.

773-275-9191

Featuring twin dining rooms decorated with sea-green wainscotting and a colorful array of papier-mache sea creatures made by a local artist, this impressive Andersonville restaurant offers sophisticated, prettily presented seafood at very reasonable prices–most entrees are $20 or less.

Recommended: Crab cake Napoleon, veal sweetbreads, tuna tartare, bouillabaisse, Pacific salmon, N. Y. strip steak, bread pudding.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $18.95-$23.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking Fri.-Sat.

Avenues ***

The Peninsula Chicago

108 E. Superior St.

312-573-6754

The fanciest seafood restaurant in Chicago and by far the most expensive, Avenues dazzles with its assortment of European fish and chef Gerhard Doll’s distinctive French style. The dining room is a bit staid-looking, but Doll’s plates are strikingly modern and his flavors superb.

Recommended: Tournedos of langoustines, salt-crusted whole seabass, turbot, bittersweet chocolate cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Dinner prices: 3-course prix fixe, $69; 6-course tasting menu, $95.

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Hushed

Other: Valet parking; no smoking.

NEW

Bob Chinn’s Crabhouse Chicago **

321 N. LaSalle St.

312-822-0100

You won’t find Wheeling restaurateur Bob Chinn here — he leased the name — but you’ll see Bob’s son, Michael, who’s one of the owners and is a regular dining room presence. This restaurant follows the Chinn formula — impeccably fresh seafood, prepared simply — and adds a few twists, including a large sushi and raw bar. There’s casual dining and carryout upstairs, formal dining down and a riverside outdoor patio in summer months.

Recommended: Steamed mussels, ahi poke, steaks, Dungeness crab, Key lime pie.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $18.50-$37

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Bring earplugs

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Blue Point Oyster Bar *

741 W. Randolph St.

312-207-1222

Wood-shuttered windows and retro signage highlight the look of this circa-1940s East Coast fish house, which takes its oysters very seriously (at least eight varieties featured daily) and does good-to-excellent work on its other offerings.

Recommended: Crawfish, fresh oysters, grilled octopus, grilled scallops, sesame-crusted Ahi tuna, mile high chocolate cake, Key lime pie.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14.95-$39.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

CLASSIC

Cape Cod Room

Drake Hotel

140 E. Walton Pl.

312-787-2200

This veteran hotel seafooder still outfits its waiters in bright-blue, gold-braided jackets and sports a dark nautical decor that dates back decades. But the seafood is still reliably good, whether it’s fist-sized oysters at the bar, classic Dover sole or a contemporary dish from the “new Cape Cod” section of the menu.

Recommended: Bookbinder soup, smoked-salmon and smoked-trout terrine, lobster thermidor.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $22-$40

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Joe’s Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone Crab **

60 E. Grand Ave.

312-379-5637

This half-sibling to the famous Joe’s Stone Crab in Miami is open year-round, even when stone crabs are out of season, which explains the mouthful of a name. Stone crabs are the highlight, of course, but very good prime steaks and decent seafood should keep the crowds happy in the summer months, too.

Recommended: Stone crab claws, shrimp de jonghe, crab cakes, lamb chops, bone-in filet, N.Y. strip steak, Key lime pie.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $17.95-$39.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Shaw’s Crab House ***

21 E. Hubbard St.

312-527-2722

1900 E. Higgins Rd., Schaumburg

847-517-2722

Great fish, great oysters and great variety are the hallmarks of these seafood houses, which recently added Japanese maki rolls to the menu. The downtown location wears its 1940s look well, and the adjacent Blue Crab Lounge offers music frequently. The Schaumburg spot boasts the Red Shell, a less-formal adjunct with a moderate, shrimp-rich menu.

Recommended: Crab cakes, sashimi tuna, oysters, blue crab fingers, Dover sole, grilled salmon, N’Awlins spicy shrimp, pecan pie.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. (city), Mon.-Sun. (suburbs)

Entree prices: $10.95-$45.95

Credit cards: A,DC,DS,M,V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

WEST

120 Ocean Place **

120 Hale St., Wheaton

630-690-2100

Amid soaring peaked ceilings (the space was once a church, as the stained-glass window testifies) and faux-marble columns, this west-suburban restaurant cranks out terrific seafood. The large menu, which changes daily, offers plenty of variety.

Recommended: Steamed mussels, oysters, spicy shrimp, Maine diver scallops, grilled striped bass, pepper-grilled mahi mahi, tartufo, creme brulee, lemon tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $12.95-$31.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Parkers’ Ocean Grill **

1000 31st St., Downers Grove

630-960-5701

A strikingly handsome seafood restaurant with mahogany-clad walls, hardwood floors and white linen-topped tables. The globally influenced menu offers few surprises, but most dishes are capably executed, and service is attentive and very well trained.

Recommended: Nachos chinois, grilled grouper, cedar-roasted sturgeon, ice cream tower, chocolate gateau.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $11.95-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking in dining room.

SOUTH

Phil Smidt’s (3 forks)

1205 N. Calumet Ave., Hammond, Ind.

800-376-4534

This 450-seat Northern Indiana mainstay has been drawing Chicagoans to its pan-fried perch and frog legs specialties for decades. One taste and you’ll know why.

Recommended: Perch, frog legs, walleye pike, gooseberry pie.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $11.50-$46.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Soul/Southern

CITY

Army & Lou’s **

422 E. 75th St.

773-483-3100

This place is a South Side treasure. The handsome decor features linen-topped tables and a soothing red-and-cream color scheme. Walls are adorned with African and Haitian art. Yet prices remain low. Ribs are very good, and the fried chicken is arguably the best in town.

Recommended: Mustard and turnip greens, fried chicken, barbecued ribs, fried catfish, peach cobbler.

Open: Dinner, lunch and breakfast Wed.-Mon.

Entree prices: $5.95-$19.95.

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible; small parking lot adjoins building.

Dixie Kitchen & Bait Shop (3 forks)

5225 S. Harper Ave.

773-363-7723

825 Church St., Evanston

847-733-9030

With its weathered trim, motley collection of wooden kitchen chairs and old porcelain-enameled stoves, the Dixie Kitchen & Bait Shop could be at home along a Mississippi bayou.

Recommended: Fried green tomatoes, peach-glazed chicken wings, blackened chicken breast salad, gumbo, jambalaya.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.95-$10.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Spanish

WEST

Emilio’s Tapas Bar Restaurant **

4100 W. Roosevelt Rd.,

Hillside 708-547-7177

This small restaurant has a rustic, cozy Spanish atmosphere with wonderful, satisfying food. Emilio’s menu lists more than 18 tapas along with daily specials.

Recommended: Garlic potato salad, spicy chicken wings, paella, sangria, rice pudding.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $14.50-$18.50

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Meson Sabika ***

1025 Aurora Ave., Naperville

630-983-3000

This “house on a hill,” to translate its name, is a former member of Emilio Gervilla’s tapas empire, operated by a former partner. The same formula prevails on the menu–a bountiful array of hot and cold tapas, plus a small number of full-sized entrees.

Recommended: Roasted veal with raspberry vinaigrette, Spanish piquillo peppers stuffed with crabmeat, black bean soup.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $12-$20

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Steak

CITY

Gene & Georgetti ***

500 N. Franklin St.

312-527-3718

As an old-fashioned “real guy” steakhouse, this place is unsurpassed. A see-and-be-seen restaurant of another age, Gene & Georgetti attracts a loyal and regular clientele, who come to view the politicians and enjoy the massive, impeccably prepared steaks.

Recommended: Strip steak, lamb chops, calf liver, chicken Vesuvio, prime rib, garbage salad, cheesecake, spumoni.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $16-$40

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet parking.

Gibsons **

1028 N. Rush St.

312-266-8999

One of the city’s finest steakhouses, as the crowded dining room and even more crowded bar attest. Strengths include an attractive interior, superior beef and knowledgeably opinionated waiters.

Recommended: Chopped liver, spinach salad, onion rings, filet mignon, barbecued ribs, strawberry shortcake, chocolate hazelnut tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $21.75-$33

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

The Grillroom **

33 W. Monroe St.

312-960-0000

Across the street from the Shubert Theatre and within walking distance of at least four others, The Grillroom is an ideal pre-theater destination (and handy Loop lunch spot) , which is why the menu ranges far beyond most steakhouse staples.

Recommended: Steakhouse wings, ribeye steak, filet mignon, fallen souffle cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $9.95-$32.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

Harry Caray’s **

33 W. Kinzie St.

312-828-0966

10233 W. Higgins Rd., Rosemont

847-699-1200

Legendary baseball broadcaster Harry Caray died in 1998, but his spirit lives on in this bustling place, an Italian steakhouse with sports-themed decor and an old-fashioned charm personified by white-jacketed, eagerly accommodating service. The award-winning wine list is a distinct plus.

Recommended: Grilled baby octopus, lamb chops oreganato, chicken Vesuvio, Sicilian veal chop, tiramisu.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $11.95-$32.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Magnum’s Prime Steakhouse **

225 W. Ontario St.

312-337-8080

777 E. Butterfield Rd., Lombard

630-573-1010

1701 W. Golf Rd., Rolling Meadows

847-952-8555

Despite the macho name, this city steakhouse and its suburban siblings are sophisticated and civilized. Decor is stylish, service is knowing (if a bit by-the-numbers) and steaks are first-rate. Do be prepared to deal with noise.

Recommended: Lobster tail, ribeye steak, lamb chops, veal chop.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch (suburbs only) Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13.95-$85

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Bring earplugs

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Morton’s of Chicago ***

1050 N. State St.

312-266-4820

You won’t find a better steak than the thick, beefy beauties cooked here. The attractive dining room does a good job of overcoming its windowless basement locale; tables are close together, but it’s a convivial crowd. Civilized touches include excellent service, a very good wine list and classy ambience.

Recommended: Steaks, veal chop, baked potato, dessert souffle for two.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $19.95-$34.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible; discount parking with validation.

Shula’s Steak House **

Sheraton Chicago Hotel & Towers

301 E. North Water St.

312-670-0788

Wyndham Northwest Chicago

400 Park Blvd., Itasca

630-775-1499

The winningest coach in NFL history has a hot streak going with his signature chain, now grown to 15 locations. The menu is printed on a regulation football, the walls are festooned with pictures of Shula’s undefeated 1972 Miami Dolphins and the only thing you’ll ever hear on the sound system is Frank Sinatra. But the aged steaks are very good and service is prompt and accommodating. Note: The Itasca location also serves breakfast and lunch (no lunch Sundays).

Recommended: Barbecued shrimp, porterhouse steak, prime rib, chocolate souffle for two.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $18.95-$65.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Validated valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Smith & Wollensky **

318 N. State St.

312-670-9900

This impressive steakhouse sits at the base of Marina City. Part of a New York chain, it offers succulent, aged-on-premises steaks, hefty lobsters dusted with cayenne pepper and a monstrous twice-cooked pork shank. The light-filled dining room is decorated with American art; an outdoor patio overlooks the Chicago River. Wollensky’s Grill offers smaller-portioned steaks and keeps late-night hours.

Recommended: Crab cakes, lobster cocktail, Wollensky salad, sirloin steak, Angry Lobster, apple betty.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $17.50-$35

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NORTH

Pete Miller’s Steakhouse (3 forks)

1557 Sherman Ave., Evanston

847-328-0399

You’ll find serious steaks and seafood at this handsome restaurant, which has an adjacent jazz lounge.

Recommended: Fried calamari, prime burger, bone-in ribeye, rack of lamb.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $17-$50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

SOUTH

Krapil’s (2 forks)

6600 W. 111th St., Worth

708-448-2012

A rustic-looking, old-fashioned steakhouse where the placemat is also the menu (prices aren’t listed) and steaks come in big, bigger and enormous sizes.

Recommended: T-bone steak, strip steak.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.50-$51.75

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Swedish

CITY

CLASSIC

Ann Sather

929 W. Belmont Ave.

773-348-2378

A warm and friendly hangout that has nurtured a generation of budget-conscious diners, Ann Sather’s is pure comfort, from the legendary cinnamon rolls at breakfast to the blueberry pie at night. Entrees include a starter course and a couple of side dishes, and no one walks away hungry. There are three other Ann Sather locations scattered about the North Side, but only this location serves dinner every night.

Recommended: Duck with lingonberry sauce, Swedish meatballs, pickled herring, cinnamon rolls.

Open: Dinner, lunch and breakfast Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.50-$12.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted only for parties 6 or more

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Free parking lot

Thai

CITY

Amarind’s (4 forks)

6822 W. North Ave.

773-889-9999

Amarind’s is too good to be true. The interior is unassuming–and spotless. Thai artwork on the walls is handsome. The Thai menu offers high-class fare that just doesn’t cost very much.

Recommended: Tom yum shrimp soup, spicy curry pork, moo ping, bay scallop salad, spinach noodles with seafood.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun, lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $7.95-$10.95

Credit cards: A, D, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Arun’s ****

4156 N. Kedzie Ave.

773-539-1909

The finest, most upscale Thai food you’ll ever experience is available at this Northwest Side jewel, a picture-perfect, cleanly elegant space decorated with beautiful artwork. Arun Sampanthavivat’s food is artistically noteworthy too, beautifully presented and stunning in its complexity and exotic ingredients and flavors. There is no set menu; Arun’s features a Chef’s Design Menu, a multi-course dinner selected by Arun after consulting patrons’ preferences, dietary requirements and spice tolerance. The wine list is small, but every bottle is carefully chosen.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Dinner price: 12-course tasting menu, $85

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

Erawan **

729 N. Clark St.

312-642-6888

Two former Arun’s workers are part of the partnership behind this pretty River North restaurant, which is decorated with stunning Thai artworks, including a replica khan tho roof. Art Lee’s food is firmly Thai-rooted, but it boldly incorporates Western ingredients and techniques.

Recommended: Chicken and foie gras shu mai, venison satay, whole red snapper, tea-smoked poussin.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $18-$38

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

NEW

Jitlada Thai House (3 forks)

3715 N. Halsted St.

773-388-9988

You won’t find too many surprises on the menu at this tiny storefront, but the glorious presentation, hefty portions, ultra-fresh ingredients and low prices may have you doing double takes. Vegetarians will have a field day.

Recommended: Tom kha kai, house special tofu, pad woon sen.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Fri.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.35-$8.25

Credit cards: A, M, V

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: No smoking

NORTH

NEW

Ruby of Siam (4 forks)

9420 Skokie Blvd.,

Fashion Square Mall, Skokie

847-675-7008

This Thai restaurant is artful in all respects. The North Shore Center for the Performing Arts is across the street, making it an ideal pre- or post-theater spot, and the soothing music and splendid artwork complement superb regional dishes.

Recommended: Roasted duck curry, khao soy, som tom, tod mun.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7.95-$12.95

Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Vietnamese

CITY

Hai Yen Restaurant (3 forks)

1055 W. Argyle St.

773-561-4077

The menu at this neat, classy spot stars Vietnamese items, with particular attention paid to regional variances. A few Chinese dishes play supporting roles.

Recommended: Bo nhung giam, cang cua boc tom, che ba mau.

Open: Dinner and lunch Thu.-Tue.

Entree prices: $6.50-$13.95

Reservations: Accepted

Credit cards: M, V

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Le Colonial **

937 N. Rush St.

312-255-0088

A stylish restaurant with colonial-French decor and a dark upstairs bar that draws a young Gold Coast crowd. A user-friendly menu and moderate spicing makes it attractive for newcomers.

Recommended: Beef salad, spring rolls, seared monkfish, filet mignon, Chilean sea bass, whole snapper, banana wonton.

Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $14-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking in dining room.

Pasteur ***

5525 N. Broadway

773-878-1061

A tropical-cool dining room with sherbet-colored walls, rattan chairs and tropical plants is home to what is arguably Chicago’s finest Vietnamese food. Recommended: Spicy beef salad, grilled curry beef, dungeness crab, grilled sea scallops with shrimp.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Thu.-Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$27

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot after 6:30 p.m.