Men are no stranger to the power and allure of a fine suit, shirt, tie and shoes. But a coat?
“They think that ‘it’s just a coat and I’m throwing it on,’ ” said Nate Berkus, an interior designer who often comments on local style. “A good coat may carry more importance than even what you wear underneath.”
It’s often the first thing people see, said Dianne Erpenbach, director of fashion/retail management at Columbia College Chicago. And they see it again and again and again . . .
“Think of the abuse your coat takes,” said Thomas Flint, general manager of Dunhill on Oak Street. “You wear it every day for six months. It’s very difficult to find that one coat that will do it all.”
So, here at Q, we’re offering Part 2 of our tips for building a collection of coats that fuse function with fashion. (Last week the focus was on women.)
1. A trench coat with a removable lining: “This is No. 1 on my list,” Dianne Erpenbach of Columbia College said. “It’s the most versatile coat you can have in your wardrobe. It travels well and battles all the elements, snow, wind, cold and rain.” She suggests buying Burberry or London Fog, which have “perfected” the trench’s style and protective finishes, she said.
Steer clear of the traditional heavy cotton twill blend, opting instead for lighter microfibers. “They tend to feel softer and pack without wrinkling,” Erpenbach said. “In the city I don’t think you can beat black.”0
Black microfiber trench coat (above), $895; lambswool scarf,
$245; check umbrella, $145; all at Burberry, 633 N. Michigan Ave.
2. A dress coat/top coat:
Jo Ann Young, Marshall Field’s trend correspondent, and Mark Gill, image consultant, recommend dress coats by John Varvatos. Gill, who works as a personal shopper here and in New York, has sold many of the designer’s double-faced cashmere coats.
Navy and black are best. Buy wool for durability, cashmere for lighter weight, or a blend of both.
This year, Gill and Young like the look of shorter John Varvatos coats. Above-the-knee lengths offer greater mobility and cut down on bulk, but may not meet black-tie needs. Traditional dress coats fall at the knee.
Black wool coat by John Varvatos (left), $995; silk velvet scarf by Dolce & Gabbana, $330; both from Marshall Field’s, 111 N. State St.
3. One or two transitional coats or jackets: This is where military surplus moves out and denim and leather jackets, or peacoats, can step in. “I have a great thin Ferragamo leather jacket that I can throw on with almost anything,” Nate Berkus said. The bomber jacket is a classic.
The peacoat, meanwhile, may be more versatile and more fashion-forward this season, particularly one in corduroy, Young said, although navy wool may prove more lasting.
Camel wool/cashmere jacket (above), $145; green merino wool knit scarf, $38; both at Banana Republic, 744 N. Michigan Ave.
Gray wool peacoat (above right), $995; leather messenger bag, $550; knit cap, $115; all by John Varvatos; all at Marshall Field’s, 111 N. State St.
4. A battle-the-elements casual down or shearling jacket: “Because we’re in Chicago, we need a down coat,” said Dunhill’s Thomas Flint, who not surprisingly recommends a Dunhill waist-length down coat with leather detailing.
Shearling, however, “is the biggest news in men’s coats,” said Nena Ivon, manager of special events for Saks Fifth Avenue in Chicago. Most popular are those with a distressed look in a variety of colors, dyes and finishes this year, beyond basic black and brown.
Burgundy shearling jacket (right), $2,650; burgundy scarf, $495; both at Dunhill, 55 E. Oak St.
Tan down jacket with leather trim (below), $750; brown wool scarf, $395; brown leather gloves, $195; all at Dunhill, 55 E. Oak St.
