(3 forks)
The Illinois Institute of Art
180 N. Wabash Ave.
312-280-3500
Hours: Lunch only, 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri. when school is in session
Credit cards: A, D, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
As you enter the building, you will see a sign for “The Illinois Institute of Art Chicago . . . Culinary Arts” and, through several windows, a kitchen populated by young people. A few more steps bring you to the Backstage Bistro (so named because the building is directly behind the Chicago Theatre). It’s a single room with attractive yellow and white tiles on the walls and ceiling and drab industrial tiles on the floor: easy to hose down but too utilitarian to be enticing. From many of the 38 seats, customers can look into one of two kitchens. Here the Institute’s culinary students cook and serve real food to real, paying customers, with discreet oversight from faculty members.
On the plate
Menu items change frequently and offerings expand or contract depending on how many students are participating. Expect about six first courses and seven main courses, plus three or four desserts. Dishes tend to be complex so students can tackle several techniques in the same recipe. But the cooking is contemporary in its relative lightness and use of healthful ingredients. Portions are ample.
At your service
Servers are sincere, very well informed and–understandably–both eager and somewhat tentative in describing dishes and the techniques used in preparing them. Water and bread are replenished without being requested. There’s virtually no chance of being ignored or annoyed, if only because each waiter is being graded.
Second helpings
Winning selections are numerous: Parker House rolls are tender and a seasonal salad of endive and field greens with diced pear, celery, pecans and a creamy blue cheese dressing is enticing. Golden pan-seared fillet of red snapper is topped with tasso ham and poached garlic plus poached tomato and crisp collard greens. Pork loin medallions rest on pumpkin grits with diced apple and haricots verts. Medium-rare beef tenderloin comes with “smashed,” rosemary-infused Yukon Gold potatoes and crisp fried onions.
Take a pass
Apple crisp was too crisp (the apples needed to cook longer) and had an excessive amount of dry topping. A tasty nut tart was hard to cut apart.
Thirst quenchers
Among the usual choices, a dozen wines also are available by the glass ($7 to $12), half-bottle and bottle.
Extras
Each day the student waiters get the opportunity to perform a tableside preparation such as boning poultry or fish, creating a tossed salad or preparing a dessert such as cherries jubilee. The daily menu includes a dish featuring an exotic ingredient such as ostrich, alligator or skate wing.
Price range
Appetizers, soups and salads, $4-$6; main courses, $10-$13; desserts, $4-$6.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key:
4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
