Pumpkins do more than feed the terrors of pint-size trick-or-treaters. Pureed silky smooth or chopped into bite-size pieces or left hollowed but whole for stuffing, pumpkins grace the table in all sorts of ways, from soup to desserts. And the seeds toasted and salted make a darn good substitute for nuts.
Colonists landing in the New World found native people growing pumpkins, which belong to the gourd family and are related to watermelon and squash.
“The New Food Lover’s Companion” says that the newcomers quickly grew to love pumpkins, particularly baked into pies. One group of Connecticut settlers even delayed Thanksgiving when the molasses needed to make the pie was unavailable, the culinary dictionary says.
For millions of Americans, pumpkin still means pie–especially on the Thanksgiving table. But chefs and food professionals are using pumpkins in so many other ways, from risotto to ravioli to gratins.
Pumpkins are available fresh or canned. The convenience of the canned product is a selling point because the pulp is cooked down to concentrate flavor and darkens the color. And peeling pumpkins can be a pain. Pumpkins also may need to be cooked down, especially if the pumpkin has a high water content.
In choosing a pumpkin for cooking, select a sugar or pie pumpkin, says Tony Norris of Urban Oaks, a certified organic urban farm in New Britain, Conn.
“Make sure the skin is firm, the top is still attached and there are no dark spots or dark blemishes on the pumpkin,” Norris says. The smaller the pumpkin the better: They tend to be fleshier and tastier.
Once the pumpkin is seeded, peeled and chopped, you can roast it to soften and caramelize the flesh. Place the pumpkin pieces on a lightly buttered baking sheet, and sprinkle on some water to produce steam during baking. Cover the pan with aluminum foil, and roast the pumpkin for 30 minutes in a preheated 400-degree oven.
Pumpkin risotto
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour, 10 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
Adapted from a recipe from Metro Bis restaurant in Hartford, Conn.
3 sugar pumpkins, about 1 1/2 pounds each
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 cups water plus 1 tablespoon
1 cup canned pumpkin
1 tablespoon oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup each: chopped onions, arborio rice
1/2 cup white wine
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Wash pumpkins in cold water to remove any dirt. Cut off the stem and discard. Carefully cut the pumpkin through the middle so that you have a top and a bottom piece. Scoop out the seeds from both sides of the pumpkin. Place the pumpkin halves on a baking sheet; roast until flesh is softened, 35 minutes. Set aside.
2. Combine chicken broth with 2 cups of the water and pumpkin puree in a saucepan; heat to simmering. Heat oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat until butter melts. Stir in the chopped onions. Pour in 1 tablespoon of the water. Let the onions “sweat” until soft and translucent but not browned, about 5minutes.
3. Pour in rice; stir gently to coat the grains; cook until grains become translucent and you can see a tiny kernel of white starch inside each. Increase heat to medium-high; stir in wine. Cook until the wine is absorbed and the rice seems almost dry. Pour about 1 1/2 cups of the simmering broth mixture onto the rice until just covered. Cook, stirring, until you see the liquid is almost absorbed. Add more broth and repeat as the rice absorbs it until the rice is al dente. You may not need all the broth.
4. Stir in remaining 1 tablespoon of the butter. Remove risotto from the heat; mix in Parmesan cheese. Serve the risotto immediately in the reserved pumpkin halves.
Nutrition information per serving (without pumpkin bowl):
245 calories, 30% of calories from fat, 8 g fat, 3.7 g saturated fat, 15 mg cholesterol, 35 g carbohydrates, 6 g protein, 160 mg sodium, 1.6 g fiber
Pumpkin gratin
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
Refrigerate the leftovers and enjoy cold with cold cuts.
1 can (15 ounces) pumpkin
2 whole eggs
2 egg yolks
1 cup grated Swiss cheese
1/2 cup whipping cream
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg
Freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Combine pumpkin, eggs, yolks, Swiss cheese, cream, brown sugar, salt, nutmeg and pepper to taste in a food processor; pulse to mix. Do not overwork.
2. Pour the batter in a buttered oven-proof gratin or baking dish. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Bake until golden brown, and/or the center reaches 165 degrees. Serve hot or cold.
Nutrition information per serving:
325 calories, 66% of calories from fat, 24 g fat, 14 g saturated fat, 255 mg cholesterol, 13 g carbohydrates, 15 g protein, 725 mg sodium, 3.1 g fiber
