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Let’s get 2003 off to a classy beginning with a hot grape from a hot region, pinot noir from California’s Russian River Valley.

Russian River pinots have developed a reputation for considerable richness and complexity, and this bottling shows both those traits. The vintage was a good one. The wine spent 10 months in French oak, almost half of it new oak. The result is a charming berry bouquet and flavor along with the subtle earthy note that sets the sexiest of red Burgundies apart.

Though many people are now at ease drinking pinot noir with fish, especially salmon, the Alderbrook, at $29, is better reserved for beef or lamb and will be much appreciated when served with full-bodied cheeses such as Epoisses or Reblochon.