(2 forks)
186 N. Wells St.
312-456-0901
Hours: 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon.-Fri.
Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
A bright green-and-red awning beckons those in search of a quick, casual lunch to this Italian deli tucked beneath the el tracks. The cheerfulness continues inside: Walls are painted in panels of orange, cream and green, and old black-and-white family photos add a touch of nostalgia to the otherwise contemporary surroundings. Diners can get a rundown of the offerings from the large menu posted behind the counter before placing their orders. There’s plenty of seating for those wishing to dine in.
On the plate
Italian-style subs sporting everything from meatballs to corned beef dominate the menu, but there are also salads, wraps and soups. Sandwiches come on “torpedo” rolls from D’Amato’s bakery, though they also can be ordered on multigrain wheat, rye or a bagel. A few are served hot, and others will be heated on request. Soups, which change daily, include a nice minestrone with orecchiette pasta, beans and lots of fresh vegetables. Sides of potato salad and coleslaw are simple but fresh–a cut above most deli versions.
At your service
Diners choose from the menu and pay at the counter, then wait for their orders to be called out for pickup. Service is fast and friendly, but food is presented no differently for dining-in than carrying-out, and that’s too bad. Eating in would be far more pleasant if sandwiches came on a plate (or at least in a basket) and salads and soups came in real bowls rather than in plastic or paper containers.
Second helpings
Two sandwiches–both meatless–are standouts: the Vegetariano (roasted peppers, grilled zucchini, eggplant, red onion and provolone cheese with pesto) and the Campagna (eggplant, tomato, provolone and pesto). Both are warm and crusty with a fresh basil flavor. A good cold-weather offering, the chicken Parmigiano, features a marinated chicken breast (which would be even better breaded) with provolone and a nicely spiced marinara. The Napoli combines a better-than-average tuna salad with provolone, lettuce and tomato. The Caesar’s wrap, basically a chicken Caesar salad tucked into a honey-wheat wrap, is a little heavy on the dressing, making it a knife-and-fork rather than eat-by-hand affair. The Delicatezza salad, which combines greens, golden raisins, blue cheese, tart apples and walnuts in a tangy vinaigrette, is a tasty mix of flavors and textures.
Take a pass
Cookies and a lemon bar tried on one visit did not taste fresh. The Caprese salad featured pale orange tomatoes (plus fresh mozzarella and basil). It might be best to retire the salad in non-summer months. Offering more optional toppings might help jazz up some of the plainer sandwiches.
Thirst quenchers
The usual array of sodas (canned and fountain), plus iced tea and other cold drinks.
Extras
For $1.79, you can add chips, slaw, fruit salad, potato salad, pudding or a cookie plus a medium drink to a full-priced salad, sandwich or soup order. There’s also a freezer with ice cream sandwiches and little cartons of gelato. Delicatezza also has a catering menu.
Price range
Soups, $2.49-$3.49; salads, $2.99-$4.99; wraps, $3.99; sandwiches, $4.29-$4.99; desserts, $.79-$1.49.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
