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The rich gold color of saffron-infused foods is a strong clue to the value of this spice, if not its true color.

Each hand-harvested “thread” of saffron is a single orange-red stigma (the part of a flower that receives pollen) from a particular species of crocus. This labor-intensive processing results in a spice with a pleasing, faintly bitter flavor and haunting aroma. Saffron threads hold their potency longer than the powdered spice.

The quality of saffron varies, and it usually is priced accordingly. Even at around $35 an ounce (slightly more than 28 grams), “pure” threads with deep red color are considered by many cooks to be superior and worth their cost.

Doing the math reveals another upside to saffron: Very little is needed to impart intense color and aroma. For many dishes and baked goods, two or three threads is just enough. Too much makes food taste medicinal. A paella that serves eight people requires only about a quarter-gram of saffron, or about 30 cents’ worth.

Saffron should be stored in an airtight container away from heat and light. It is best when used within six months. Like tea, saffron releases its flavor when infused in hot liquid. For the fullest flavor, add saffron near the end of cooking.

Paella

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: About 1 hour

Yield: 8 servings

1 whole chicken, 3 1/2 pounds, cut into 8 pieces

1 teaspoon each: salt, oregano

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

4 cups low-fat chicken broth

1/4 gram (1 vial) saffron threads

1/4 cup olive oil

1/2 pound spicy Italian or Spanish sausage

2 onions, diced

3 cloves garlic, minced

4 tomatoes (fresh or canned), diced

1 bell pepper, diced

2 cups uncooked long-grain rice

1 pound fresh peas or 1 package (10 ounces) frozen tiny peas

1 pound shrimp, shelled

1 pound clams in the shell, scrubbed

1 pound mussels in the shell, scrubbed

1. Season chicken pieces with salt, oregano and black pepper. Let stand 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat broth in medium saucepan; add saffron. Turn off heat; let steep.

2. Heat oil in 6- to 8-quart Dutch oven or paella pan over medium heat. Add chicken parts; cook until golden brown, about 7 minutes. Turn; brown 5 minutes. Remove to paper towels to drain. Slice sausage in half lengthwise; reserve.

3. Add onion and garlic to Dutch oven; cook, stirring, 5 minutes. Add tomatoes, bell pepper, rice, reserved chicken and saffron-infused broth; cover. Reduce heat; cook 20 minutes. Add sausage, peas and shrimp. Stir to mix well. Cover; cook 5 minutes. Add clams and mussels. Cover; cook until sausage and shrimp are just cooked through and clams and mussels have opened, about 15 minutes. Discard any clams and mussels that haven’t opened. Fluff rice; serve in large dish or directly from pan.

Nutrition information per serving:

690 calories, 37% calories from fat, 28 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 190 mg cholesterol, 960 mg sodium, 55 g carbohydrate, 52 g protein, 3.9 g fiber

Chicken wings with pancetta and saffron

Preparation time: 35 minutes

Cooking time: About 1 hour

Yield: 4 servings

A little like a paella but without the shellfish or rice, this country-style Italian main dish or hearty appetizer needs only good, crusty bread to mop up the sauce. Pancetta is unsmoked, Italian-style bacon. Regular bacon can be used instead.

1/4 pound pancetta, diced

3/4 cup flour

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 pounds chicken wings, wing tips removed

2 tablespoons butter

1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil

3 green onions, minced

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 sprigs fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried

1 onion, finely chopped

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/8 gram (half a vial) saffron threads, steeped in 2 teaspoons hot water

2 cups coarsely chopped mushrooms

1 cup chopped canned tomatoes

1/2 cup chicken broth

Salt, freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons minced parsley, for garnish

1. Cook pancetta in large skillet over medium-low heat until crisp, about 10 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.

2. Combine flour, salt and pepper in paper bag. Dredge chicken wings lightly in flour mixture, shaking off excess. Add butter and olive oil to skillet in which pancetta was cooked; heat. Add wings in batches if necessary; cook, turning, until browned on all sides, about 7 minutes. Transfer browned wings to a plate.

3. Add green onion, garlic, oregano and onion to skillet; cook over low heat 10 minutes. Return wings to skillet; add wine and the saffron with soaking liquid to skillet. Cook over medium heat until reduced slightly, 5 minutes.

4. Add mushrooms, tomatoes and broth to skillet. Cover; simmer until wings are tender, about 25 minutes. Add pancetta; cook uncovered to reduce sauce slightly, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to warmed serving bowl; garnish with minced parsley.

Nutrition information per serving:

835 calories, 56% calories from fat, 51 g fat, 16 g saturated fat, 190 mg cholesterol, 1,775 mg sodium, 29 g carbohydrate, 62 g protein, 2.9 g fiber