(3 forks)
5148 N. Clark St.
773-334-9851
Hours: (kitchen) 5-11 p.m. Sun-Thurs., 5 p.m.-midnight Fri.-Sat.
Credit cards: D, DC, MC, V
Noise factor: Conversation-ally challenged up front; conversation friendly in the non-smoking back room.
First impressions
Walk through the doorway under the wooden sign depicting a red leaf from the hop plant, used as a flavoring agent in beer, and you’re in store for more than a friendly neighborhood bar. Specializing in beer from Belgium, this popular Andersonville spot is a destination point for beer connoisseurs.
On the plate
Hopleaf is known for its over-the-top beer and ale selection, so the dining menu–which changes seasonally– seems stark in comparison, limited to selections inspired mostly by popular Belgian bar food. But instead of slim pickings, think of it as smartly edited with the best of casual favorites, such as BLTs and ham and cheese sandwiches constructed with premium pork, roasted vegetables and a beer-battered cod sandwich served with caper aioli and arugula. Two items, a free-range rabbit and a rib-eye steak dish, exceeded our $13 limit.
At your service
Service was aloof and distant from two different servers during separate visits to the back dining room. But each time orders were taken and food delivered without serious delays. And as my dining companion remarked, “competent and aloof” may be a breath of fresh air compared to “chatty.”
Second helpings
The specialty of the house lived up to that description: Mussels steamed in ale and flavored with shallots and thyme team up with hand-cut, bronzed fries wrapped in parchment. The smoked duck breast sandwich flavored with tomato-ginger jam and herb aioli was tender and delicious, even winning second-day raves from colleagues who shared samples from a doggie bag.
Take a pass
The fresh trout with fingerling potatoes and escarole had too much herb seasoning for those who appreciate this fish’s delicate flavor. The cheese plate seemed a bit skimpy and in need of more inspiring selections.
Thirst quenchers
More than 200 varieties of beer and ale. Need I say more? Selections emphasize Belgium brands. But even non-beer drinkers may find themselves tempted by hard-to-find regional specialties.
Price range
Appetizers, $4-$7; salads and sandwiches, $8-$12; main courses, $10-$20; desserts $6; drinks, $2.50-$45 (prices include sales tax).
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
