In his first American cookbook, “Aquavit and the New Scandinavian Cuisine” (Houghton Mifflin, $45), chef Marcus Samuelsson melds old-school tradition and new-school innovations and takes readers on an international tour.
Samuelsson–co-owner and chef of New York’s highly regarded Aquavit and co-owner of Riingo, a new Japanese-American restaurant there–has garnered “celebrity chef” status with his 1999 James Beard Foundation recognition as a rising star chef, and his Beard 2003 ranking as best New York City chef.
The Ethiopian-born, Swed- ish-raised, French-trained Samuelsson explained–during a visit to the Tribune’s test kitchen–that his approach has evolved from studies, travel and life experiences. While melting chocolate for chocolate ganache cakes, he said that he credits his Swedish grandmother for fostering his love of cooking.
Samuelsson has a down-to-earth, anyone-can-do-this approach in the kitchen, an attitude reflected in his glossy, lusciously photographed cookbook. At first glance the book looks like the type of big-scale production that could contain the unapproachable recipes with which some celebrated chefs tantalize home cooks. But Samuelsson’s recipes are geared for simplicity with helpful and easy-to-follow tips that make quick work out of sophisticated fare.
“This is a quick consomme, without the usual complicated steps. In fact, it takes less than 30 minutes to prepare, yet I think it surpasses even the classic version made from meat or game,” he writes next to the recipe for mushroom consomme, which merely calls for a mushroom reduction and the addition of an oyster in each soup bowl. Use a pasta machine to roll out paper-thin flatbread, he advises near another recipe.
When he was ready to divide the ganache cake batter into ramekins, Samuelsson offered a variation to the recipe: “When I’m making this recipe for my nephew, instead of baking cakes, I make them into pancakes.” Then he asked for a skillet to demonstrate how easily the elegant dessert transforms into breakfast fare. “Or you could use the same batter for muffins,” he said.
Don’t confuse the book’s recipes with wacky fusion versions from other sources, which often seem forced. These have trickled down from Samuelsson’s travels. The idea for the coffee-roasted duck breast came from the aroma of roasting beans during a visit to Ethiopia. Chicken backs and necks flavor his Swedish grandmother’s chicken soup because she refused to waste anything. A paste blending three kinds of peppercorns, Asian sesame oil and anchovies makes a piquant crust for a beef tenderloin served with a Greek-inspired tzatziki sauce, picked up from Samuelsson’s culinary stint on a luxury cruise line.
The gravlax club, which Samuelsson describes as the most popular sandwich in the cafe upstairs at Aquavit, combines the Swedish-cured salmon with which he grew up and avocados and tomatoes from his new home in North America.
“Aquavit,” Samuelsson’s almost 300-page handshake between the old-school and new-school, is bigger and heavier than most cookbooks and well worth the price. With more than 100 international recipes, gorgeous photography and professional tips delivered in a personal style, this book is a winner.
Samuelsson offers a gentle culinary reminder through recipes: Removing boundaries offers much to share and discover. Here, with Samuelsson’s coaxing, guidance and interpretation, we learn through recipes that we are more alike than we are different.
Pepper-crusted beef tenderloin steaks with cabbage tzatziki
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Standing time: 10 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
– From “Aquavit and the New Scandinavian Cuisine.” Marcus Samuelsson suggests shopping for pink peppercorns at specialty markets. If unavailable, replace them with additional black and white peppercorns. Blanching peppercorns removes some of their sharpness. Boneless rib-eye steaks also can be substituted for tenderloin.
For the beef:
2 tablespoons each: white peppercorns, black peppercorns, pink peppercorns, Asian sesame oil
4 anchovy fillets
3 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/2 pounds center-cut beef tenderloin, cut into 4 steaks
For the cabbage tzatziki:
1 cup yogurt, see note
3 cloves garlic
Juice of 1 lime
2 tablespoons fresh dill
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
3 cups thinly sliced napa cabbage
Kosher salt
1. Prepare the beef: Put the peppercorns in a small saucepan; add water to cover and bring to a boil; drain. Add cold water to cover, bring to a boil, and drain again; repeat 2 more times. Spread the peppercorns on paper towels and let dry thoroughly.
2. Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Put the peppercorns in a mini-processor or blender and process until coarsely crushed. Add the sesame oil, anchovies and garlic, and blend to a coarse paste. Transfer to a small bowl.
3. Heat the olive oil in a large cast-iron or other heavy ovenproof skillet over high heat until almost smoking hot. Add the tenderloin steaks and sear for 1 minute on each side. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the steaks for 6 minutes, or until cooked to medium rare. Transfer the steaks to a warm platter and rub the peppercorn mixture all over them. Let rest for 10 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, prepare the tzatziki: Combine the yogurt, garlic, lime juice, dill and parsley in a food processor or blender and process until smooth. Put the cabbage in a bowl, add the yogurt mixture and toss to coat. Season with salt to taste.
5. To serve, slice the steaks and arrange on four plates with a spoonful of the tzatziki alongside. Pass the remaining tzatziki at the table.
Note: Thick yogurt is best for the tzatziki; sheep’s milk yogurt is especially good. If your yogurt seems very liquid, let it drain in a cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a bowl for 8-12 hours in the refrigerator before making the tzatziki.
Nutrition information per serving:
442 calories, 49% of calories from fat, 24 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 113 mg cholesterol, 15 g carbohydrates, 42 g protein, 283 mg sodium, 3 g fiber
– – –
Desserts add elegant finale to a meal
These single-serving size cakes from “Aquavit and the New Scandinavian Cuisine,” by Marcus Samuelsson, have a liquid chocolate center. Paired with the candied beets, they make an uncomplicated but elegant dessert.
Chocolate ganache cakes
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 14 minutes
Yield: 12 servings
In “Aquavit and the New Scandinavian Cuisine,” Marcus Samuelsson recommends using “high-quality bittersweet chocolate for this recipe, such as Valrhona or Callebaut, available at gourmet and specialty shops, or Lindt, which can be found in most supermarkets.”
Cocoa powder, for dusting
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 pound bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into chunks
4 large eggs
4 large egg yolks
5 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sifted cake flour
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease twelve 4-ounce ramekins or aluminum foil molds with the softened butter. Dust with cocoa powder and tap out the excess.
2. Melt the chocolate and butter in the top of a double boiler or in a heatproof bowl over barely simmering water, stirring occasionally until smooth. Remove from the heat.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks and sugar until well mixed. Whisk in the melted chocolate and butter. Sift the cake flour over the top and fold it in.
4. Divide the batter among the ramekins, filling them no more than three quarters full. Arrange them on a baking sheet and bake for 5 to 6 minutes. Turn the baking sheet around and bake for another 4 to 6 minutes, just until the edges of the cakes look set and have pulled slightly away from the sides of the ramekins but the centers are still slightly liquid; do not overbake.
5. Turn each cake out on a plate and serve immediately.
Nutrition information per serving:
327 calories, 73% of calories from fat, 28 g fat, 16 g saturated fat, 184 mg cholesterol, 19 g carbohydrates, 5 g protein, 28 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
Candied beets
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 50 minutes
Yield: 2 cups
These candied beets from “Aquavit and the new Scandinavian Cuisine” are “a great accompaniment to chocolate ganache cakes underlining the sweetness of the chocolate,” writes author Marcus Samuelsson. You could also serve these with vanilla ice cream.
2 large or 3-4 small beets, trimmed and peeled
1 stalk lemon grass, tough outer leaves removed, tender inner stalk lightly smashed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
3/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
2 1/2 tablespoons honey
1. Slice the beets into 1/2-inch-thick rounds, then cut into 1/2-inch dice. Tie up the lemon grass in a piece of cheesecloth.
2. Combine the beets, cheesecloth bag, sugar, brown sugar, orange juice and honey in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the beets are soft.
3. Transfer the beets and cooking liquid to a bowl or other container; discard the cheesecloth bag. Let the beets cool in the liquid, then refrigerate until needed.
Nutrition information per 2-tablespoon serving:
96 calories, 0% of calories from fat, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 25 g carbohydrates, 0.3 g protein, 15 mg sodium, 0.5 g fiber
