We see them clogging the sidewalks, looking forlornly for the next free trolley, trying to figure out if the building with the crisscrossed beams is the Sears Tower (no) or the Hancock Building (yes) so they can orient their maps. — They are tourists and we love them. — But sometimes we act too cool to hang out with them, even though they go to some pretty cool Chicago places that, thanks to their constant presence, Chicagoans often overlook. — Beginning this week and continuing through the summer, the Friday section is going to punch your ticket for Chicago tourist locations from food to music to shopping to … well … all the sights, sounds and places where tourists go but natives might fear to tread. — In this first issue, we search out bases of operations. We review three newer, in-town hotels: The Amalfi, a “boutique hotel” for our guy seeking a more personal experience; the Sofitel, a bigger hotel for our woman with a love of Eloise looking for a full range of hotel amenities; and the Hard Rock Hotel, for our staff musician-journalist seeking an edgier time.
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As my wife and I dozed on the 17th floor of the Hard Rock Hotel, the front desk wake-up call came at 6 a.m. sharp.
There was just one problem: We never requested a wake-up call.
The Hard Rock–now open six months–reminded us of a fan-friendly expansion team. You may like them, the players may like each other, but that doesn’t mean the club can execute its plays just yet.
The Hard Rock is housed in the Carbide and Carbon Building, an Art Deco gem dating to 1929 (and reputedly designed to mimic a champagne bottle, by the way). It caters to hip–and judging by what I saw, mostly Boomer-age–folks who find the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle alluring. Lobby screens play non-stop videos; staff members sport name tags that also identify the said person’s favorite band. And each floor has a rock personality assigned to it.
Booking my room, I heard an oft-repeated refrain (“Thank you for calling the Hard Rock Hotel, how may I rock your world today?”). A helpful voice told me she was locating “the lowest available rate,” which turned out to be $199 a night for a “deluxe” room above the fifth floor (standard rooms, I was told, run $179).
A few minutes later, I found a lower deluxe rate on Orbitz.com ($184). No biggie. But when I called to cancel my first reservation, I was told they couldn’t find it because my original call had been routed to a Florida call center. And the info from the Florida computers hadn’t reached the Chicago Hard Rock.
A hotel staffer promised she’d call back when the cancellation was complete. But the message the hotel left six hours later accomplished the opposite: It confirmed my first reservation.
Speaking of check-in, it’s at 3 p.m., though the Hard Rock allows it as early as 9 a.m. if it isn’t sold out the night before. We tried at 10 a.m., to no avail. But when we returned at 3:10 p.m., a harried front desk person told us our room wasn’t ready and we’d have to stop back “later.”
“But I’m pre-registered,” I said, a bit flustered. She promptly apologized and got our keys ready.
Now the good news: There’s 24-hour room service, and while breakfast took 10 minutes longer than the maximum 25 we were told, it yielded one of the fluffiest hotel omelets I’ve ever had (hot, too). And the third-floor business center boasted high-speed Web access and private cubicles.
The fitness center is well-appointed with free weights, treadmills and exercise machines, though it was tricky to find on the hotel’s lower level.
Nearby, my wife was getting an hour-long massage, which the concierge suggested, as a top-notch hotel perk at $110. Therapists are on call between 9 a.m. and 11 p.m. from Windy City Massage, so an 8:30 p.m. appointment on Sunday posed no problem. Amy said it was fantastic, with a qualifier: The massage rooms with their barren paneling and non-dimming lights lacked for atmosphere.
If fitness isn’t your thing, the Base Bar to the right of the front desk features finger food and spirits. It’s either intimate or boxy depending on your perspective, and unless you grab one of the eight bar seats, you’ll wind up on fairly low couches stooping over your grub, or standing. I was told acoustic acts play there; the stage is a postage stamp-sized affair.
The helpful Hard Rock concierge staff gave good advice. There’s no restaurant in the hotel yet (the China Grill is slated to open in July), but one concierge gave us his business card, which cut our brunch wait at the Grand Lux Cafe (600 N. Michigan Ave., 312-276-2500). Good call: My wife and I enjoy the Grand Lux because it always seems calm, even when its faux-colonial confines are full.
But he should stop recommending the South Water Kitchen (225 N. Wabash Ave., 888-306-3507), a half-block west of the hotel. The American comfort food is tasty, but for something a cut above T.G.I. Friday’s, the menu is limited to a dozen entrees–and overpriced. Two main dishes and a soup, with tap water to drink, just about hit $50.
The valet and service staff proved wonderful (we pulled up to the sounds of John Lennon, a nice touch). One polite, quick-thinking porter in the lobby asked for my bag tag as I fooled with my luggage, in case I was not its rightful owner. Taking side trips, the average wait for our car was under five minutes. Still, parking signage could be much better. The Hard Rock’s street address front entrance is on the west side of Michigan Avenue. But the place where hotel guests pull up is tucked away on South Water Street. Even a seasoned Chicagoan like me did a double take trying to find it.
And, oh, the sticker shock: $35 for a day of in-and-out parking.
As for the rooms and overall ambience, it’s a mixed review. From my days hanging at Hard Rock Cafes (capped by working backstage as a Hard Rock waiter at Live Aid), I’m used to a crazy, colorful vibe. Imagine my surprise to find a spartan room, featuring austere grays, whites and mirrors. “Very masculine,” my wife noted. If you’re going to go minimalist, why not echo the Carbon and Carbide’s rich Art Deco accents?
And if each Hard Rock Cafe is rife with rock memorabilia, the hotel is disappointingly barren. Each floor has its own glass-encased collector’s item. Just one. On 17, we had to settle for Annie Lennox’s costume beads from a 1984 photo shoot (I wanted Prince’s guitar a floor below).
Plentiful room comforts include: a yummy king-size bed; terry cloth robes (which you can buy for $99); a flat-screen TV with video games and a DVD player (a free DVD library is available); high-speed Internet access; and a great view of North Michigan Avenue.
The sleek bathroom came with just a shower–no tub–and a glass barrier that, while it looks sharp, leaves the back of the stall permanently exposed. For a slob like me, that meant putting towels down to keep the floor from flooding.
The Hard Rock makes a great launching pad for playing tourist. And launch you must if you have kids; there’s not much for them to do except video games, rock videos playing in the lobby or that age-old game of running down the halls.
But just steps away are Grant Park, the Art Institute, a fleet of city boat tours, the House of Blues and free trolleys to Navy Pier (which stop at Illinois Street and Lower Michigan Avenue). It’s also at the nexus of the Magnificent Mile and State Street shopping, so make sure your credit cards are ready.
I’ll hold off on revisiting the Hard Rock until it irons out the kinks, enlivens the atmosphere and opens the restaurant. The vibe was more rock hard, with the staff trying hard–but not always succeeding.
Still, every promising act deserves a second shot, so who knows?
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The Hard Rock Hotel
A 381-room hotel with 12 suites, housed in the 37-floor Carbide and Carbon Building.
Where: 230 N. Michigan Ave., 312-345-1000
Make sure to: Be proactive. We found the staff–while mostly friendly–needed constant prodding and did not always anticipate needs. Also: Don’t touch anything in the mini-bar unless you want to buy it! It’s all on electronic sensors and gets charged to your room if moved for more than 30 seconds.
Cut corners: Get cards from the concierge that cut wait times in half at eateries such as the Grand Luxe Cafe. Parking is exorbitant, so use public transportation if possible. Also, take advantage of free amenities such as the hotel health club.
Price of admission: Nightly room rates generally range from $179 (standard) to $199 (deluxe). Suites with a 1,000-square-foot bedroom and separate seating area run $699.
