The old-time staples of ketchup, mustard and relish still accent the grilled foods of summer. But more and more, trendy condiments inspired by the culinary traditions of many countries now top those grilled steaks, chops, poultry and fish.
“When everyone thinks of grilling and barbecue they think it was invented in the 1950s in America, but if you look around the world, especially in the more temperate climates, you’ll find that grilling is an everyday cooking technique,” said Chris Schlesinger, co-author with John Willoughby of “The Thrill of the Grill” and “Salsas, Sambals, Chutneys & Chowchows.”
With the grilling come little dishes that add a kick of intense flavor.
A condiment can bring a dramatic inter-national flair to a back-yard barbecue and they are ideal for summer when life–and cooking–is simpler. They require very little effort.
Condiments differ from what Schlesinger calls the “mother sauce.”
“With a lot of types of cooking such as stewing and braising there is an intricate connection between the sauce and the food being cooked,” he explained. “But with grilling you don’t have that opportunity, so that frees you up to the whole new world of condiments.”
Condiments can be sauces, seasonings or relishes and often include chopped fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices. They can be cooked or raw. Though variations come from near and far, Marty Rogak, chef/owner of Fio in Winnetka, said that many of them share common characteristics.
“A condiment might combine different flavors that play off of each other, so you would balance something sweet with something sour or tart, and it might have different textures so you would include a soft ingredient with a crispy one,” he explained. “And it will often have different colors, so it’s not just all beige or green, because you want it to be visually pleasing.”
Neal Corman, corporate executive chef of Weber Grill restaurants, said there is a common rule of thumb with condiments.
“Condiments should be used in moderation because they should enhance the flavor of the meat, not cover it up,” he said. Corman creates several condiments he calls “splashes,” including one based on chopped grilled mushrooms. “A condiment should not be like the heavy sauces used in old European cooking to make a tough piece of meat palatable,” he said.
Mexican salsa, with its fiery kick from chili peppers, is the most well-known condiment from beyond our borders. But condiments are common in countries in warm-weather climates far and wide. Steven Raichlen in his book “The Barbecue Bible” describes his 150,000-mile journey along what he calls the “barbecue trail” that runs from South America and the Caribbean, around the Mediterranean Sea, through Northern and Southern Europe and all the way through Asia. The condiments he encountered count heavily on local ingredients.
“I found chimichurri sauce in Argentina that plays the acidity of vinegar and the aromatic of oregano, and salt and hot pepper flakes against the meat,” he said. “In the Republic of Georgia, in the former Soviet Union, they make pickled plum sauces and rich walnut sauces as a way to round out the austerity of the plain cooked meat. In North Africa and Greece they make a sauce with yogurt and cucumber, which is a cooling contrast to the hot meat, and in Southeast Asia, satays, which are lean, are served with an extremely unctuous rich, creamy peanut sauce.”
Although a growing array of condiments constitute a mini global village on the shelves of gourmet shops and supermarkets, homemade ones are easy to create.
“They’re usually pretty fool-proof,” said Randy Zweiban, chef of Nacional 27, where the cuisine is nuevo Latino. “We’re stuck inside all winter, so when we’re outside enjoying the nice weather, the less we have to do the better.”
Home cooks can follow the lead of a growing number of professional chefs who are bringing these mini sauces, served on the side, to the table.
Schlesinger, who is the chef and co-owner of the East Coast Grill, Jake and Earl’s Dixie Barbecue and The Blue Room in Cambridge, Mass., points out that condiments are becoming common accompaniments in many restaurants because of a shift in tastes.
“Some of the new style of cooking has been inspired by ethnic and inter-national cuisines, which are simpler than the intricate sauce-based French cuisine, so grilling has become popular,” he explained.
The warm months in the Midwest are the ideal time to create homemade condiments because they are at their best when made with freshly picked, locally grown fruits, vegetables and herbs that are at the peak of their flavor. Drew Niedercorn, head chef at Mangia Trattoria in Kenosha, picks oregano, rosemary and basil or just some mint from the restaurant’s herb garden to add to his aioli, a mayonnaise redolent of fresh garlic that is a staple of French Provencal cuisine. He serves it with grilled lamb.
Rogak, whose French-American menu includes hints of cuisines from around the world, includes fresh mint in one of his chutneys, the fruit-based condiment served with curries in India. “Some people still ask for mint jelly with lamb, so we offer our own version,” he said.
But in August he creates a chutney that combines apricots with newly harvested tart cherries from Wisconsin’s Door County.
“Chutneys include vinegar, which brings out the natural flavors of poultry or pork, and a little bit of honey or sugar to bring out the sweetness of the fruit,” he explained. “When you’re cooking with charcoal or wood, you’re getting a heavy flavor and the chutneys will stand up to that.”
Some condiments can play more than one role. Zweiban creates a mojo, inspired by the traditions of Central America and the Caribbean, that marries fresh orange juice, soy sauce, garlic and ancho and chipotle chilies.
“A sweet citrus like orange and pork are naturals together and the soy works well with the leanness of pork tenderloin or pork chops,” Zweiban said. “The mojo can be used as a marinade, a glaze, a dip-ping sauce and it can even be drizzled on grilled corn, asparagus and other vegetables.”
Jimmy Madla, chef-owner of Coobah, lets diners play a creative role with three of his condiments, inspired by the Philippines, that can be paired with meat, poultry or fish. The Pinatubo, aptly named for a volcano, is a very spicy dip-ping sauce that combines sweet black cherries and hot jalapenos. The verde is a classic roasted tomatillo salsa with a touch of serrano so it’s slightly spicy. And the sweet and sour sawsawan, made with black vinegar and garlic, is mild.
“We leave it to customers to use the one they like, or to play around with them to create a custom blend with the level of heat they like,” Madla said.
Condiments that count on raw ingredients are best when made on the day they are to be served before their flavors fade. Cooked condiments can be made well ahead of time so they will be ready and waiting when it is time for grilling.
Erwin Drechsler, chef/owner of erwin, makes two cooked condiments: a green tomato jam that can be served with grilled fish or chicken, and a red onion marmalade that marries well with steak or pork. “Shelf life is important to us, so some of our condiments can be kept for several days, a month or almost indefinitely,” he said.
Raichlen always has a dozen or so homemade condiments in his refrigerator, ranging from a sweet and sour one that combines foie gras and red currents to a banana ketchup.
“When you don’t have a lot of time you can put together an impromptu meal with a grilled steak or chicken breast and pull out a couple of condiments, and bang, you’ve got it,” he said.
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A world of flavors
Take a look at the shelves of your local supermarket. In the last few years, the number of sauces, dressings, relishes, dips, pickles and assorted other sides has blossomed. Condiments are taking over the world–or at least reflecting the cuisines of the world. If you venture out to ethnic or specialty markets, the choice is even broader.
Here are just a few examples that Good Eating staffers found in area markets.
Cottage Delight Hot Horseradish Sauce
Though labeled hot, this English product seemed quite mild, but with a creamy texture and tangy aftertaste. Perfect for spreading on cold chicken sandwiches or teaming with grilled beef. $4 per 3.5-ounce jar at Fox & Obel Food Market.
Hediard Sauce Rouille
This bright orange chili aioli sauce from France has hints of saffron, garlic and only a vague flavor of chilies. Try it drizzled over steamed or grilled vegetables, shrimp or fish fillets. $7 per 3.5-ounce jar at Fox & Obel Food Market.
A Taste of Thai Sweet Green Chili Sauce
Sweet and spicy at the same time, this light sauce would be great as a dip for Thai spring rolls, but also for all-American fried chicken tenders or grilled pork tenderloin. It also comes in a red chili flavor. $3.19 per 7-ounce bottle at The Market Place and Whole Foods stores.
Wild Thymes Moroccan Spicy Pepper Dipping Sauce
Thick and chunky, this pun-gent mixture tastes of roasted red peppers and exotic spices. Its kick from chilies lingers for a time. Spread this on grilled French bread slices, or drizzle over grilled chicken thighs or salmon. $6 per 11-ounce jar at Treasure Island stores.
Peach ketchup
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour, 10 minutes
Yield: 4 cups
– Serve with any kind of chicken. Adapted from “Salsa, Sambals, Chutneys & Chowchows,” by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced
5 ripe peaches, pitted, peeled, roughly chopped
1/2 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup brown sugar, packed
3 tablespoons molasses
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1. Heat the oil in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add onion; cook, stirring often, until transparent, about 5 minutes. Add the peaches; cook, stirring often, 4 minutes.
2. Add vinegar, brown sugar, molasses, granulated sugar, salt, pepper and allspice. Reduce heat to simmer; cook 1 hour, stirring occasionally. If necessary, add a small amount of water to prevent the mixture from burning.
3. Remove from heat; add the lemon juice. Put in a blender or food processor; puree. Serve at room temperature or refrigerate up to 2 weeks.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
13 calories, 15% of calories from fat, 0.2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 3 g carbohydrates, 0.1 g protein, 37 mg sodium, 0.1 g fiber
Green tomato jam
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 2 hours
Yield: 2 cups
– Serve this relish with grilled fish, pork or chicken. Adapted from Erwin Drechsler, chef/owner of erwin restaurant.
2 pounds green tomatoes, cored, cut in eighths
1 cup sugar
1 piece (2 inches long) ginger root, finely grated
Juice of 2 lemons
1. Combine all ingredients in a heavy saucepan. Heat to a boil; reduce heat to low. Cook 2 hours, stirring every 20 minutes.
2. Cool to room temperature. Serve at room temperature or store up to 1 month in refrigerator.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
31 calories, 1% of calories from fat, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 8 g carbohydrates, 0.3 g protein, 3 mg sodium, 0.3 g fiber
Cilantro sauce
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Yield: about 1 cup
– Here is a “tart, tangy condiment that is spooned over grilled kebabs, chops and chicken,” writes Stephen Raichlen in “The Barbecue Bible.” “This version is a permanent fixture on the Afghan table. Similar sauces are found as far east as India and as far west as the Republic of Georgia. Walnuts help thicken and bind the sauce.”
3 cloves garlic
1 bunch fresh cilantro, stemmed
1 jalapeno or other hot chili, stemmed, seeded
1/2 cup walnut pieces
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice or distilled white vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin, optional
2 tablespoons water, or more as needed
1. Process the garlic, cilantro, jalapeno, walnuts, lemon juice, salt, pepper and cumin in a food processor or blender to make a smooth paste, adding enough water a tablespoon at a time to make a pourable sauce.
2. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and lemon juice as necessary. Serve at room temperature or store up to 2 days in refrigerator.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
27 calories, 68% of calories from fat, 2 g fat, 0.1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 g carbohydrates, 1 g protein, 147 mg sodium, 0.3 g fiber
Grilled red onion marmalade
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 25 minutes
Yield: about 2 cups
– Adapted from Erwin Drechsler, chef/owner of erwin. Look for creme de cassis, a black current liqueur, and grenadine in larger liquor stores.
5 medium red onions, peeled, cut in 1/2-inch slices
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil plus more for brushing
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium jalapeno chili, seeded, minced
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons each: creme de cassis, grenadine, zinfandel or other full-bodied red wine
1. Prepare a grill or broiler. Brush onion slices with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil; season with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and pepper to taste. Grill 2 minutes on each side.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat; add grilled onions, garlic and jalapenos. Cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Add vinegar, creme de cassis, grenadine and zinfandel; cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid is evaporated, about 15 minutes. Season with remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt and pepper to taste.
3. Transfer to a food processor; pulse 5 to 7 times until finely chopped but not pureed. Serve at room temperature or refrigerate up to 2 weeks.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
21 calories, 53% of calories from fat, 1 g fat, 0.2 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 2 g carbohydrates, 0.2 g protein, 74 mg sodium, 0.3 g fiber
Fresh herb aioli
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Yield: 13/4 cup
– A twist on classic homemade garlic mayonnaise in which herbs are substituted for garlic. Adapted from Drew Niedercorn, chef at Mangia Trattoria in Kenosha, who likes to use it in a squirt bottle to serve on top of steaks, chops, seafood, sandwiches or salads.
1/4 cup chopped each: parsley, basil, rosemary, oregano, sage
3 pasteurized egg yolks, see note
1 teaspoon prepared yellow mustard
11/2 cups olive oil
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1. Process herbs, mustard and egg yolks in container of blender or food processor until mixture starts to slightly thicken, about 45 seconds
2. Add the olive oil slowly in a steady stream with the machine running until the mixture starts to thicken like mayonnaise, about 1 minute. Add the lemon juice and salt. Serve at room temperature or refrigerate up to 1 day.
Note: Pasteurized eggs are sold in some supermarkets. They eliminate the slight risk of salmonella bacteria that may be present in fresh eggs.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
110 calories, 97% of calories from fat, 12 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 22 mg cholesterol, 0.4 g carbohydrates, 0.4 g protein, 45 mg sodium, 0.1 g fiber
Apricot and cherry chutney
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour
Yield: 31/2 cups
– This is perfect with pork or poultry. It is adapted from Marty Rogak, chef/owner of Fio in Winnetka.
12 ounces dried apricots, about 2 cups, sliced
6 ounces dried cherries or cranberries, about 11/2 cups
6 ounces golden raisins, about 1 cup
1/2 cup each: sugar, white vinegar
1 piece (1-inch long) ginger root, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper
Freshly ground pepper
1. Combine apricots, cherries, raisins, sugar, vinegar, ginger, garlic, salt, red pepper and black pepper to taste in heavy saucepan. Cover with water. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until mixture thickens, about 1 hour.
2. Remove from heat; spread mixture in a single layer on a sheet pan. Cool to room temperature, about 45 minutes. Serve or store in the refrigerator up to 1 month.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
38 calories, 1% of calories from fat, 0.1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 10 g carbohydrates, 0.4 g protein, 43 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
