(three forks)
1617 N. Wells St.
312-664-0460
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun.-Thur., 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
Delivery: Yes
First impressions
With its sign promoting “Italo-Judaic bistro and deli,” who can resist stopping at this attrac-tive red brick spot in Old Town? The dining room looks more like a cafe converted from a former tavern–with a long wood bar down one side and seating for about 36 at wood tables–than it does a deli. But the place is inviting, with striped walls and vintage photos. The ethnic mix comes from the background of the owners: one Italian, one Jewish and one Irish.
On the plate
The Jewish/Italian mix begins with the menu heading “Noshes/Antipasti.” Among them are potato latkes, “the rabbi’s very own” chopped chicken liver and a hot artichoke dip–the latter more ’50s American than anything else. That leads to a realization: This place is not really strict about its Jewish/Italian label, and it’s certainly not kosher. For instance, the Old World B.L.T. summons neither culinary tradition. Sandwiches that do follow tradition include, on the Jewish side, pastrami (if you leave off the cheese) and corned beef. And on the Italian, Papa Carlo’s meatball hero, Big Tony’s ragazzo povero (poor boy)–that’s kind of Italian–and Trip’s chicken Parmesan–well, except for the Irish name. Panini fall under a separate heading and include portobello and basil, the Italiano (grilled chicken, roasted red peppers and basil pesto) and the Sicilian (pepperoni, Genoa salami, Roma tomatoes and provolone). Entrees range from sei formaggi (six cheese) lasagna to Bubbie’s turkey dinner.
At your service
Friendly servers take your order tableside and are eager to guide you through the menu. But one visit found a lone server working a busy Saturday lunch, and service suffered.
Second helpings
The thick, rich chopped liver with dark and light rye toast points started the meal off right. Among sandwiches, the Papa Carlo’s meatball hero with a zesty marinara sauce and rich flavor from ground veal and beef does well by the Italian side. On the Jewish side, don’t miss the pastrami: The lean meat had tons of personality with clove and pepper notes. Among panini–which were served on thick, delicious ciabatta bread–try the eggplant and mozzarella with gooey cheese, smoky grilled eggplant and biting pesto, or the rich sausage backed up by grilled bell peppers and caramelized onions.
Take a pass
The ordinary corned beef disappointed tasters. The very greasy latkes had a strange, dark, almost purple color. The great roasted pepper and pesto of the Italiano panini were overshadowed by the dry, boring grilled chicken breast plunked inside.
Thirst quenchers
Iced tea, fountain drinks and Dr. Brown’s sodas; BYOB is allowed, and a liquor license is coming.
Price range
Appetizers, $5-$6; salad and soup, $3-$7; sand-wiches, $7-$9; main courses, $11-$12; sides, $2.50; desserts, $1.50-$4; drinks, $1.50.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key:
4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best;
2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
