Q. My 1997 Cadillac DeVille has 70,000 miles, and one of the rear struts is leaking fluid. My mechanic says it will cost about $1,500 to replace the rear pair due to the electronics involved. I would like to keep this car for several more years as long as there are no other extreme costs. Because we have three small children, I am very concerned about the vehicle’s handling, especially in an emergency. This is why I do not think ignoring the problem is a good idea, not to mention the bad tire wear that will result. Additionally, I am wondering whether there is any alternative to replacing the factory units with a non-electronic alternative.
J.Z., Elmhurst
A. You mentioned safety and handling as concerns so we advise against replacing the electronic shocks with conventional ones. Joseph Bacarella, manager of technical support at Monroe (a major manufacturer of shocks) agrees, adding “on 1994 and newer Cadillacs, the electronic dampers tie into the stability system.” Though it does not make conventional shocks for this car, Monroe does sell electronic replacements for the factory units. On the 1997 DeVille, the part number for the front is 40019 and the rear is 40018.
Q. I have a 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier and the driver’s side turn signal works fine, but the passenger side blinks slow and will make the driver’s side blink dim when turning right. When the headlights are on, the right side turn signal is lit up on the dash like when you are going to turn right but the signal isn’t on. What could the problem be? I tested the bulbs.
N.T., Chicago
A. This is classic behavior when there is a problem with the ground side of the electrical circuit. Check for a broken wire (probably black) or have a pro check the wires for continuity.
Q. I have a foul smell anytime I have the vent selected for outside air. When the A/C is on, this does not happen. I have checked to make sure the A/C condensate drain is open and have tried spraying an anti-mold fragrance into the passenger side air filter, at the dealer’s suggestion, to no avail. The filter is relatively new. Should I just remove it? Why is it even needed? What good are they?
R.U., Lansing
A. You may remove the filter if you like. It is not essential, but it does filter out dust and pollen. Some filters also have activated charcoal to help eliminate odors, but yours probably does not. That said, we don’t think the problem is with the filter, but with microbes in the air conditioning evaporator fins. The evaporator, not the filter, needs treatment.
Q. I have a 1998 Ford Windstar with about 60,000 miles on it. I ran a few errands, drove about 10 or 15 minutes, then turned off the car and shopped for 5 or 10 minutes. The car failed to start afterward. The engine turned over, but wouldn’t catch. After about 30 minutes, just as the tow truck arrived, the car started OK. I drove to repair shop; they could not find any problems. This happened a few more times. It seems to happen when the engine has been running a half hour, then turned off and seems to happen more on hotter days.
P.M., Hoffman Estates
A. We suspect a flooding condition–especially because you said it happens more often in hotter weather. During hot soak (the period after you shut off a hot engine), pressure may build in the fuel system. If any of the injectors dribbles, excess gas builds in the engine, making it hard to start. The next time this happens, try cranking the engine while holding the gas pedal to the floor. Doing this shuts off the injectors until the engine catches.
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Bob Weber is an ASE-certified Master Automobile Technician, having recertified every five years since 1978. Address your technical questions about cars and trucks to him in care of Motormouth, 17717 Silcott Springs Rd., Purcellville, Va., 20132. Send e-mail, including name and town, to motormouth(underscore)trib@verizon.net. Answers will be supplied only through the newspaper.
