Sex stores. Drag queens. Big gay rainbow columns. Honey, this stretch of North Halsted Street has seen it all. But is it ready for $12.50 for tapas-sized portions of Alaskan halibut and $13.50 for nibbles of foie gras?
Owners of brand-new X/O Chicago hope so. It looks like they’ve staked big bucks on bringing River North-style upscale dining to an ever more mainstream Boystown.
We think their gamble’s paying off. Yeah, prices are probably steep for a ‘hood where nightlife usually trumps haute cuisine. But chef Bob Zrenner’s East-meets-West menu is sufficiently ambitious to get the attention of foodies, and the space crackles with enough energy to please a diverse crowd. (And we saw everyone here, from the pearls-and-lipstick set to dressed-to-thrill twentysomethings.)
The striking, feng shui minimalism strives for sexy: Pops of red accent deep-chocolate browns; a front lounge offers overstuffed velvety seating; the back-bar lounge offers additional leather settees and banquettes. Our favorite part: a wall of prairie grass pressed between panes of glass.
Servers recommend three plates to equal one meal. The evening’s hits: “East vs. West” oysters ($11.50), Kumamoto and Malpeque oysters served with a chilly take on traditional toppings: a horseradish tomato sorbet, a cucumber sorbet and a mignonette.
We also liked the crab cakes ($12.50), both a bit small, but packing a roasted red-pepper punch. A duo of sea scallops ($11.50) comes with sage-infused brown butter and sits on creamy pumpkin ravioli.
The reason for X/O Chicago’s amped-up atmosphere–complete with a DJ pumping out beats to accompany your dinner? It’s owned by a couple of nightclub owners: Mark Liberson owns Hydrate across the street, and business partner Mark Kwaitkowski owns Joy-Blue, Cherry Red and Crush. That also might explain the boozy name: X/O is the label designation for “extra old” cognac, offered here by the glass and flight.
There’s also a great selection of cocktails, such as the Lemongrass Harvest, made with Hendricks, lemongrass syrup, lime juice and a floating cucumber ($9).
Service was efficient and sommelier Amy Lewis (whose previous gigs include MK and North Pond) offers an accessible approach. Wine flights ($14.50-$21; $28 for sparklers) come in four 2.5-ounce pours. We tried the “Sassy Flight,” a red and white sampler that included a 2002 Palacios Remondo “Vendimia,” a standout Rioja, which Lewis adeptly likens to a cherry Tootsie Pop.
Desserts offered unique choices. We tried a lighter-than-it-sounded “ravioli brulee” ($7), gyoza skin stuffed with creme fraiche and served with a strawberry “soup,” a fruit-and-cream puree.
Not everything wowed us: The tempura tri-colored peppers served with a creamy garlic sauce ($7.50) lacked personality; the Thai and Japanese eggplant ($7.50) stewed in a spicy tomato seemed like spaghetti sauce sans pasta.
The braised oxtail ($9.50) served with a celery root puree reminded us of Trio Atelier’s braised veal cheek, but X/O’s version couldn’t match Trio’s intense flavor.
Still, we’re game for another go: X/O Chicago offers a late-night lounge menu that ranges from a chicken breast sandwich ($8) to a decadent half-pound Kobe foie gras-topped burger ($17). X/O suggests a glass of Krug champagne (a house fave) for another $40 to wash it down.
Oh, go ahead–it’s hardly the naughtiest thing you’ll get on this street.
X/O Chicago
3441 N. Halsted St.
773-348-9696
