Many guys don’t think a lot about how they dress. In fact, fashion scares them. Yet the booming men’s beauty industry suggests that men do care about how they look. A growing number are paying more attention to their wardrobe and trading up from their Dockers.
The recent New York Fashion Week probably isn’t the best place for the everyday man to start re-imagining his wardrobe, but it does offer a wide variety of ideas for how men might dress come fall. Menswear designers at Fashion Week didn’t push the envelope as much as the womenswear collections. For guys, though, that’s a good thing: The more you monkey with pants and jackets, the more you scare off a potential new customer or turn off an existing one.
So what did we see? A lot of smart, clean, approachable looks. Suits (from one to three buttons) were sharp and fitted. Dark colors (black, navy, gray) continue to rule, although shots of purple and teal made their presence known. A spiffy, classically American silhouette not only looks right, it looks comfortable.
Here’s a recap of some of the best:
Richard Tyler: Half his show was couture, the other half was uniforms (if they can rightly be called that) designed for Delta airways. We should all be lucky enough to dress like these natty pilots and flight attendants. Whether it was simple pleated wool pants with a turtleneck sweater or a midnight blue stretch wool suit, Tyler’s fly boys took wing.
Nautica: For years the look here has been one of privilege: yachtsmen and cool preps who like to look the money. The new collection seems a bit more adventuresome (yummy shearling jackets and Donegal wool pants). It’s an edgier approach to classic sportswear; a downtowner’s idea of varsity. And it worked.
John Varvatos: Feeling the need to flex? If so, Varvatos’ collection with its broad shoulders and wide-legged trousers will accommodate your muscled body. Maybe guys won’t accessorize with the neck scarves he showed, but that doesn’t make the collection any less wearable.
Perry Ellis: Jerry Kaye, the new creative director for Perry Ellis, said this collection is about old world meets modern man. It’s a good idea, successfully executed. We like the comfortable silhouettes and the rich indulgence (cashmere sweaters, velvet trousers, alpaca overcoats and python belts). But the color palette–caramel, olive, and cocoa brown–was a harder sell.
Joseph Abboud: What a surprise to see this gentlemanly haberdasher go for a more punk look. His models looked like they were ready for a rumble with their sleeves pushed up, shirts untucked and thick pocket chains dangling menacingly. Some of the pieces actually looked attractive, but the presentation (everything scrunched, wrinkled and wrapped) didn’t do the collection any favors.
Kenneth Cole: Somehow, Cole always has his ear tuned to the right urban vibe. His shouldery suits, cable-knit turtlenecks and boxy coats looked smart and plugged-in. The only misstep was a handful of pieces in cranberry, plum and teal.
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Edited by Cara DiPasquale (cdipasquale@tribune.com) and Victoria Rodriguez (vrodriguez@tribune.com)
