When years of exposure cause siding problems it’s tempting to cover them up. These days that usually means a layer of vinyl, which has about 40 percent of the market, including new installations and residing jobs. But before you commit to a full face-lift, consider these repairs for wood and masonry–and some fixes for aging aluminum and vinyl, which were supposed to last indefinitely.
– Fixing aluminum panels. Surface scratches need sanding, priming and painting. Brush strokes tend to stand out, so try several light coats with a spray can instead. Dents are trickier. One option is to drive a sheet metal screw through the center and pull on it to raise the depression. But that leaves a small hole. Another approach is to sand, apply automotive body filler, smooth and repaint. Suction-type repair kits meant to take small dents out of car bodies also work pretty well.
– Replacing vinyl panels. When vinyl is damaged, replacing a panel is often the easiest solution–and a good reason for storing a few extras from the original job. To start, you need to unlock panels that are interlocked during installation. It’s fairly easy using an inexpensive, can-opener device called a zip tool. Wiggle the end into the seam, then slide it along, in effect, unzipping the connection. If it’s difficult to nail the replacement (its nailing hem will be covered), just snap the replacement into the adjoining panels.
– Clearing efflorescence on masonry. Efflorescence is a powdery white deposit that can form on all types of masonry. It’s made of water-soluble salts brought to the surface by water. When the water evaporates, the crusty-looking salts remain. The deposits are easy to remove with a stiff brush and a mild solution of muriatic acid. But unless you stop the water flow, from a roof leak or gutter, for example, new deposits will form.
– Eliminating chalking on masonry. Chalking can look a lot like efflorescence. But the giveaway is when it appears on a masonry wall or foundation below painted siding, which is the source of the problem. Some paints have a self-cleaning feature and shed a bit in the weather. And when that material washes down onto masonry it sticks. You can remove it with a masonry cleaner, or even water. But to eliminate the problem you need to use a non-chalking paint on the siding above.
– Fixing mortar joints. Crumbling mortar looks bad and lets in water that can weaken and eventually destroy a masonry wall. To repair joints scrape away loose or cracked material and brush out any remaining debris. To hold new mortar, the joint should be excavated about as deep as it is wide. Then spritz the joint with water and force in the mix. Before it sets, smooth the surface (some do-it-yourselfers use an old spoon) to match the typically concave finish of the surrounding mortar joints.
– Repairing cracked stucco. Keep water out of cracks with an acrylic or siliconized-acrylic sealant. When the damage is more extensive, remove weakened pieces and start again with a scratch coat, a filler coat and a thinner finish coat. A mason’s rubber-faced float is handy for smoothing the surface. If you need to match swirls or other patterns, try using a large damp sponge before the mix hardens.
– Fixing wood clapboards. Clapboards most often cause problems where they’re nailed, by splitting or pulling loose. But if you set a popped nail it’s likely to pop again. Instead, drive a longer nail or screw in its place. To fix splits at the end of a board, pry open the crack slightly and fill it with exterior-grade glue. Wipe off the excess and keep the joint tight by temporarily tacking a piece of scrap wood under the split.
– Replacing wood shakes. To replace a damaged shake, pry up the shakes above and insert a small wedge to hold them. Then split the damaged shake into sections that are easy to remove. Next, use a hacksaw blade to trim the concealed nails. If you don’t, they’ll split the new shake. To finish, tap the new shake in place and secure it with a couple of nails driven at an angle just under the edge of the shakes above.
– Caution with old asbestos shakes. You can clean them (with a low-pressure wash) and also paint them. But don’t do any sanding, cutting or other work that could release the carcinogenic fibers.
