For more than three centuries, Champagne has epitomized “luxury, frivolity, elegance and glamour,” according to Richard Juhlin, a Swedish Champagne expert.
There’s no better time to indulge than New Year’s, for Champagne is far more than a mere beverage, as Juhlin’s book, “4000 Champagnes” (Flammarion, $60), aptly proves.
“[Champagne] can be an imposing monument, or charming and airy, penetrating in its intensity, or elegant and subtly sensual–or just a letdown,” Juhlin writes. “It can be sensational in its youth, yet deep and thought-provoking when properly aged, for the very best Champagnes can live as long as a human being. It is a drink produced by driven individuals and enjoyed by equally passionate people.”
Passionate indeed.
For many, only Champagne will do–an attitude certainly encouraged by the French, who note that while winemakers around the world may use Champagne’s methods to create sparkling wine, the only real Champagne comes from the Champagne region of France.
Very special years
Most Champagnes, most sparkling wines really, are non-vintage products. The winemakers use a blend of wines from various years to create the signature house style that remains relatively unchanged from year to year.
A vintage Champagne must be made with wine from that year. And vintage Champagne has to be aged three years before release.
Vintage wines have traditionally been made only in banner years when the harvest is fine enough to warrant its own bottling. Of course, declaring a vintage year is a great publicity stunt and a potent source of revenue for a Champagne house, which may be the real reason behind the flurry of vintage dating now under way.
Vintage sparkling wines make up only a small percentage of the Chicago-area market. ACNielsen, the consumer marketing firm, reported some $181,308 in sales of bubbly priced at $60 or higher at area retail stores over the last year compared to $6.3 million worth of sparkling wine priced between $10 and $15.
Yet, Chicago wine pros say the visibility–and sales–of so-called “prestige” sparkling wines are growing.
“The recognition is there,” said Sue Kim-Drohomyrecky, co-owner and wine director of Green Zebra, Spring and Custom House restaurants. “People who drink Champagne seem to have more wine knowledge, perhaps, or are more attuned or savvy to the different types of Champagnes and, definitely, the different producers.”
Chicagoans in the mood for Champagne are digging deep to enjoy the best bubbly they can afford, and it is often vintage sparklers at the higher price points.
Bubbling to new heights
Vintage or no, Champagne sales are increasing, she added.
“I’m heartened by that,” she said, noting that sales of Champagne by the glass had increased to such a degree at Green Zebra that she recently added a third choice to the wine list.
“People really do appreciate Champagne,” agreed Tom Verhey, owner of Pops for Champagne and Star Bar. Of Pops’ inventory of 115 bottles, 85 are Champagne, he said. Of their 12 by-the-glass offerings all but one is Champagne.
“When people come to Pops they come because we’re known for Champagne and that’s what they want,” he said. “It doesn’t matter if it’s $60, $100 or $300, we sell a lot of Champagne.”
Low price clearly isn’t always the object.
“When they slap down the cash they want something unique,” Verhey said.
Belinda Chang, sommelier at Osteria Via Stato, said the holiday season is a particular time when Champagne lovers let go.
“When people want to celebrate they want to go all the way,” she said.
“They want something a little more meaty, a little more muscular,” she said of fine Champagne. “They want something with bottle age and oomph to it.”
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A kick from vintage Champagnes
An opportunity to sample pricey vintage Champagne doesn’t come around very often, which may explain why nearly a dozen people turned out for a recent holiday tasting. That’s about eight more folks than we get for a sampling of boxed wines.
Joining the panel at this informal blind tasting was Tom Verhey, owner of Pops for Champagne and Star Bar. He explained the special nature of a vintage Champagne, but noted that part of the appeal, for some, is also the special occasion price.
Some of the Champagnes were light and sparkly, what the French would describe as “feminine,” while others were weightier, creamier, more mouth-filling. Nearly all had lovely, long finishes, tantalizing aromas and flavors that managed to be dry without being astringent. And all the Champagnes earned “very good” or three-corkscrew ratings.
1995 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs
A fetching combination of lemony playfulness dancing atop a creamy flavor base. “Wonderful toasty notes,” one taster declared. “Feminine and ver-r-r-y refined,” said another. $150
1996 Deutz Champagne Cuvee William Deutz
Elegant, creamy, with a light yeasty fragrance. Full-bodied and rich; one taster described the flavor as “butters and pears, yum!”, balanced, with good floral notes. $135
1996 Veuve Clicquot Champagne La Grande Dame Caprice
Even tarted up with a fancy Emilio Pucci silk bag, Pucci-lined zippered “dress” and a Pucci-edged label, La Grand Dame remained sharply elegant with a taste like toasted green apples and a long, long finish. $220 ($125 standard packaging)
1995 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill
Slightly sweet and a touch yeasty, this French tribute to Britain’s wartime prime minister was eminently sippable, with plenty of apple flavor and buoyant bubbles. A golden effigy of Sir Winston crowns the label. $165
1996 Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne Cuvee Palmes d’Or
“Palate cleansing,” one taster wrote. “Sweeps across with lots of life.” Less tart than some others but still pleasantly kicky. $100
1997 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Annee
Very floral on the nose, with flavor notes of apples, caramel and toast that lingered seemingly forever. $110
–B.D.
Sources: We found these wines at Sam’s Wines and Spirits, Uncork It, House of Glunz, Binny’s Beverage Depot stores, Schaefer’s in Skokie, The Wine Cellar in Palatine, SavWay Fine Wines & Spirits stores. Not every wine may be in stock at your local stores; prices may vary from store to store. Prices are rounded off.
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wdaley@tribune.com
Bill Daley answers questions on wine, beer and spirits every Sunday in Q. Hear him on WBBM Newsradio 780 at 6:21 p.m. and 10:22 p.m. each Tuesday and 7:52 p.m. each Saturday and Sunday.
