Meltdown is such a discouraging condition. The child, reduced to a puddle on the grocery-store floor. The computer, shrugging off a lifetime of memories. The carton of mint chip, defrosting back into pudding. This is the dark side of summer.
We take precautions. Early bedtime. Regular backup. The core of the ice cream churn chilled, ready for mint-chip emergency.
And yet, in these troubled times, disaster may strike. Heat wave. Power outage. Picnic.
Fortunately, our streets are patrolled by that good-humored public servant, the Good Humor Man. As well as the soft touch of Mister Softee.
Perhaps you take the ice cream truck for granted. Are only mildly annoyed by its incessant tinkle, mildly amused by its rocket pop, snow cone and sugared SpongeBob Squarepants, with real gumball eyeballs. Perhaps you have never paused to appreciate the similarities between this ambulatory service and that esteemed version, the ambulance.
Consider: Each is color-coded hygienic white. Each negotiates traffic with assistance from the distinctive, perhaps grating, loudspeaker. Each braves off-road conditions-sidewalk, beachfront and park. Each is managed by the uniformed professional, trained to administer urgent aid. IV drip. Dippin’ Dots. Splint. Banana split.
Ferrying supplies to the desperate is a long tradition: Saint Bernard with brandy cask, frontline paramedic, bookmobile driver. It is a heroic calling. And crucial when the city spikes a temperature.
For the picnicless picnicker, the crispy sunbather or panting dog-walker, the ice cream truck offers cool breeze on a stick. No six-pack backpack or lunchbox brick of blue goo can hope to maintain the cold conditions needed to induce both toothache and brain freeze.
For mere allowance-with change-the ice cream truck offers the novelty of the novelty: the frosty snap of the Fudgesicle, the bland chewiness of the Neapolitan sandwich, the renewable pleasure of the push-pop.
The mobile ice cream professional never demands ID or insurance card. He’s willing to let the paperwork slide and rarely requires a wait to be seen. We sprinkle him with praise. Indeed, we hope public health officials will confer Mister Softee the honorary title of Dr. Softee. As long as he continues to make house calls.
ORANGE DREAMSICLE
Serves eight
6 oranges
3/4 cup water
1 cup sugar
1/2 vanilla bean (or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract)
1/3 cup whipping cream
1. Juice: Zest 2 oranges. Set zest aside. Squeeze all 6 oranges; measure out 2 cups juice.
2. Simmer: In a medium saucepan stir together water, sugar and reserved orange zest. Scrape in the vanilla-bean seeds (if using). Bring to a boil. Simmer 1 minute.
3. Chill: Stir in orange juice, cream and vanilla extract (if using). Strain (perhaps into a large glass measuring cup). Chill.
4. Freeze: Pour mixture into Popsicle molds (for a chunkier pop) or swirl in an ice cream freezer (for a smoother scoop). Enjoy with hot weather.
-Adapted from Anthony Chavez of the Ritz-Carlton
RASPBERRY ROCKET
Serves eight
4 (6-ounce) baskets of raspberries
1-1/4 cups buttermilk
1-1/2 cups simple syrup (recipe follows)
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Pinch of salt
1. Crush: Whirl the raspberries in a food processor until slushy. Working with a rubber spatula, press the slush through a strainer set over a bowl. Discard the seeds.
2. Chill: Whisk the buttermilk, simple syrup, lemon juice and salt into the berry pulp. Chill 1 hour or so.
3. Freeze: Pour mixture into Popsicle molds (for a chunkier pop) or whirl in an ice cream freezer (for a smoother scoop).
-Adapted from “Tasty” by Roy Finamore
SIMPLE SYRUP: In a medium saucepan stir together 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water. Bring to a boil. Simmer 1 minute. Cool. Makes 1-1/2 cups.
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LeahREskin@aol.com
