Manufacturers of all kinds are catching on to consumers’ increasing preference for all things natural, and the cosmetics industry is no exception. Its trendy product of the moment, mineral makeup, comes partly from earth’s natural resources. But what is it exactly?
Dr. Omeed Memar, associate clinical professor of dermatology at Northwestern Memorial Hospital, says mineral makeups typically include inorganic dyes and minerals such as mica; titanium dioxide, a natural sunblock; zinc oxide; and iron oxide.
But there’s no standard definition for mineral makeup, and because the cosmetics industry is self-regulated, any company can say its products are mineral based. It doesn’t matter what minerals a product contains or what percentage of the product is made of minerals. There’s no independent organization to test cosmetic companies’ claims.
Memar acknowledges that mineral cosmetics aren’t put through rigorous FDA trials but says dermatologists love them because inorganic dyes are less likely to lead to allergic reactions.
“One of the most common causes that I’m seeing of acne in middle-age women is from makeup, even when it says `non-comedogenic,’ because it’s a whole mix of dyes and organic dyes and plant dyes that you can develop allergies to,” Memar says. “Everyone thinks if it’s plant derived, it’s better for you. But poison ivy is a plant. Poison oak is a plant.”
Many, though not all, mineral makeups are granular powders rather than liquids, so they don’t absorb into the skin as much–a plus to dermatologists.
“The less permanent contact they have to the skin, the better,” Memar says. “The No. 1 function of skin is as a barrier. We didn’t evolve to absorb things in.”
Mary Erickson, a Los Angeles-based professional makeup artist, is a convert.
“I wear it every day myself because I just like the way it feels and looks,” Erickson says. But she quickly points out that mineral makeup is not a good choice for momentous occasions such as weddings. “The problem is that it has a reflective quality, so you can’t really use it for photography. It reflects on a camera flash, so that’s where you get that light-colored face and dark body.”
Dr. Brooke Jackson, dermatologist at the Skin Wellness Center of Chicago, says mineral makeups are great for many skin types.
“They tend not to have a whole lot of additives,” Jackson says. “They tend to be well tolerated by people who have sensitive skin, rosacea, acne-prone skin and oily skin because they can absorb some of the oil. It also provides sun protection.” Jackson says mineral makeups, which often come in many colors, are good for hard-to-match ethnic skin.
Memar urges women with sensitive or acne-prone skin to try mineral makeup–but read the ingredients list first. Be sure the makeup doesn’t contain unnecessary additives such as vitamin E, often listed as tocopherol, because vitamin E can cause an allergic reaction over time.
“You have to be careful what you’re getting,” Memar says. “A lot [of companies] are mixing minerals with a bunch of vitamins or fragrances, and then you’re back to square one. You want something that’s as minimal as possible.”
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Too good to be true?
What about the claims these mineral makeup makers make? One company calls its mineral makeup “100 percent pure.” Another says its makeup is “ultra-safe and gentle on skin.” A third company says its liquid mineral foundation contains “time-released antioxidants and phytosomes” that “increase delivery by up to 40 percent.”
What does that mean?
“The problem is that all of those words we see on packaging that can make products appeal to us–all natural, dermatologist tested, non-comedogenic, hypoallergenic–all of those wonderful advertising claims unfortunately don’t have any definitions for the FDA,” says Lauren Sucher, spokeswoman for the Environmental Working Group, a public health and advocacy organization.
“You can write something like `dermatologist tested’ and put it on a store shelf, but it doesn’t have to have been tested, looked at, nothing,” she says. “When a company writes that on the label, it literally means nothing.”
–T.S.
