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“It tastes like gooseberries,” goes the often-heard description during tastings of sauvignon blanc from New Zealand. That take on the briskly tart wines that have been growing in popularity in America the past several years has prompted more than one critic to retort, “But do people really know what gooseberries taste like?”
Well, yes, and no. They’re sweet, but tart and rather difficult to describe, compounded by the fact that the flavor varies from variety to variety, writes Roger Yepsen in “Berries.” Tasting through a few varieties, we detected flavors of melon with a citrus edge, cranberry and Concord grape.
The berries grow to about marble size and are cultivated in Illinois, but can be difficult to find in markets. Check farmers markets in your area. We’ve seen berries colored translucent pale green with lighter striations running from pole to pole, and also berries shaded a pinkish red and a darker, almost purple-red. But they can be yellow, white or a dark red that’s almost black, too, according to the California Rare Fruit Growers Web site. They have firm skin and tiny edible seeds inside.
Buying tips
Look for firm, shiny berries with no bruises or splits.
Storing hints
Keep them a few days at room temperature or up to a week in the fridge, advises the Worldwide Gourmet Web site. Do not wash until just before using them.
Cooking suggestions
The berries can be eaten fresh out of hand, but be sure to remove the stem and blossom end first, Yepsen notes. Likewise when preparing them for a recipe, unless they will be strained after cooking. The British love gooseberries, making them into cakes and wine and fools (pudding), Yepsen writes. They can be made into jam, jellies and pie, or would make a good topping for vanilla ice cream if cooked down a bit with a little sugar. We could see them as a fruit salsa with chopped green onions as a side to grilled chicken.
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jxgray@tribune.com
