A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
GRIDLEY’S BAR & GRILLE (star)(star) 4868 Ill. Hwy. 83, Long Grove, 847-478-3663. A reliable American restaurant that makes the extra effort, whether it be smoking its own meats and fish (in a detached smokehouse on the restaurant property) or touches such as complimentary valet parking. This isn’t going to become the northwest suburbs’ Next Big Thing, but for uncomplicated, good-value eating, it’s tough to beat. Recommended: Apple-onion soup, prime rib. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $11.95-$33.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
MAY STREET MARKET (star)(star)(star) 1132 W. Grand Ave., 312-421-5547. This West Town charmer is a pure delight, from the inviting and beautiful physical space to chef/owner Alexander Cheswick’s clever seasonal-American menu, replete with novel flavor pairings and bereft of been-there-done-that combinations. Recommended: Maytag bleu cheesecake, scallops over black orzo, white-chocolate semifreddo. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat. Entree prices: $18-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MEIJI (star)(star)(star) 623 W. Randolph St., 312-887-9999. Arguably Chicago’s finest Japanese restaurant, Meiji appeals to the sushi purist, offering ingredients that competitors disregard (such as fresh wasabi). The interior is frill-free but nevertheless attractive and comfortable, the sake offerings are impressive and even the desserts, which bear an unmistakable Western accent, are worth exploring. Recommended: Meiji gunkan, oysters kampai, hari roll, ginger creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Prices: Maki rolls $11-$16. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MICHAEL (star)(star)(star) 64 Green Bay Rd., Winnetka, 847-441-3100. If you share chef/owner Michael Lachowicz’ love for classic French cuisine, chances are you’ll love his restaurant as well. Pommes puree served tableside from silver pans, an abundance of luxury ingredients–Michael knows how to coddle his guests, though he manages to do so at a rather approachable price. Recommended: Salad lyonnaise, seared foie gras, guinea hen, fallen chocolate souffle. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $23-$25. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; complimentary valet parking; no smoking.
SCHWA (star)(star)(star) 1466 N. Ashland Ave., 773-252-1466. Chef/owner Michael Carlson’s food is imaginative and artistic, reflective of his work under uber-chef Grant Achatz. At Schwa, however, there is no army of servers (as there are at Achatz’ Alinea) attending to your every whim. Indeed, there is only Carlson and sous Nathan Klingball more often than not, which means the chef or sous will be the person taking your order. (Then again, there are only 28 seats, and Carlson is stingy with his reservations, which are a must.) Compensating for this lack of pampering is relatively lower prices: Patrons choose between a three-course menu (with choices) for $55 or the grand, nine-course chef’s tasting for $90. And bring your favorite wine or wines; Schwa has no liquor license.Which is yet another reason you’ll save money at this unique dining experience. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Prices: Three-course dinner $55, nine-course $90. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: No smoking.
SOLA (star)(star)(star) 3868 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-327-3868. Chef Carol Wallack is flying high with her first solo (or sola) effort, a contemporary American dining room whose menu gives full play to Wallack’s surfer-girl fondness for Californian and Hawaiian flavors. Interesting textures highlight the kitchen creations, served in a sophisticated dining room loaded with light wood and neutral tones. Recommended: Lobster-shiitake pot stickers, citrus pound cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Thu.-Sat., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
TED’S MONTANA GRILL (Satisfactory) 1811 Tower Drive, Glenview, 847-729-1117. The “Ted” in this Rocky-Mountain-theme eatery is media mogul Ted Turner, and some of his farm-raised bison make it on the menu here, a dining room with tiled floors and Mission-style furnishings. Nearly every steak and burger can be made with beef or bison, the latter leaner and milder in flavor but less-forgiving of overcooking (order your bison one level cooler than you customarily take it, to be safe). Recommended: Swiss burger, hangar steak. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $10.99-$23.99. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
TERRAGUSTO (star)(star) 1851 W. Addison St., 773-248-2777. Cute, modestly priced (and BYO) and attitude-free despite its strong commitment to organic, local products, Terragusto is a delightful neighborhood restaurant, particularly if this happens to be your neighborhood. Parking can be tricky around here, and don’t even think about visiting without a reservation, as Terragusto’s 28 seats fill up fast. Homemade pastas are the big draw. Recommended: Mozzarella “in a carriage,” stracci with mushrooms. Open: Dinner Wed-Sun., lunch Wed.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $13-$19. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: BYOB; no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
